The 13a is a nice device. I also have an 8 and a 19e, and I use all of them on a regular basis. I'm kind of partial to the 19e right now because it is my newest, and I really like the bottom button setup.
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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The 13a is a nice device. I also have an 8 and a 19e, and I use all of them on a regular basis. I'm kind of partial to the 19e right now because it is my newest, and I really like the bottom button setup.
Yea, he has a #13B. The #13A has the same switch setup as the regular #8. This is the #8 setup.
This pic isn't mine but it is a good one.
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Ok, so I'm thinking it's a 13a because in the pictures I've seen of the b it has a plastic housing for the switch in the body, mine is metal. Also Ive read that you can move the switch to the top with the b and I really don't see any way that you could possibly do that with this one. If I take the top cap on screw it on to the bottom of the mod it literally bumps into the switch housing before it gets flush with the device. I came up with a temporary solution today, which I wouldn't mind some opinions on. I found a nylon bolt (which I just cut in half) that is the exact right threading and size to thread in to the piece that goes in the bottom cap. Then I tossed a nylon washer on with some brass washers on top finished off by a brass nut. I tightened that stuff down really good on the nylon bolt and I can just turn the whole assembly out of the bottom cap a few turns then use the tension of the bottom of the battery on the nut to snug it back in to the cap a bit when I put a battery in. So far my voltage drop is just BARELY better then it was with the lame spring setup. It might not be perfect but IMO it won't accidentally complete the connection in my pocket.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/madchad/Photo7-17-201335606PM.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/madchad/Photo7-17-201341143PM.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/madchad/Photo7-17-201341138PM.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/madchad/Photo7-17-201341046PM.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/madchad/Photo7-17-201335606PM.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/madchad/Photo7-17-201341143PM.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/madchad/Photo7-17-201341138PM.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v655/madchad/Photo7-17-201341046PM.jpg
Here is my new #23. As far as I can tell, it is hitting pretty good with no modifications. At least as good as the KTS. Seems sturdy and well built. Both mods are in 18650 mode.
View attachment 232552 View attachment 232558
This is 0.7 ohms with ribbon kanthal in a Phoenix V3, 65/35 MBV Caramel Apple:
View attachment 232388
View attachment 232552 View attachment 232558
This is 0.7 ohms with ribbon kanthal in a Phoenix V3, 65/35 MBV Caramel Apple:
View attachment 232388
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In the original #13b, you had to switch the bottom post with the 510 pin to have it fire . . . or not . . . but I can see from your pics why this might not work as the hole for your switch assembly intrudes into the threads. And our #13b did have the plastic switch housing, as you note.
I just got my sigelei #8 with Nzonic head in. I realized I ordered a button top 18650 by mistake! Won't fit with the Nzonic so I squeezed it in with the stock head. First thing I did was build a 0.9ohm micro coil for my igo-L with a rolls cotton wick.
Damn this thing hits hard! I'm still breaking in the cotton but I'm very happy with the purchase. I haven't even modded out the switch but that will be tomorrow.
Damn this thing hits hard! I'm still breaking in the cotton but I'm very happy with the purchase. I haven't even modded out the switch but that will be tomorrow.
Just got my 8w in my mailbox this afternoon.. Finally!
Right out of the box:
Broken down:
First impressions:
Tiny little thing in 18350 mode, but hefty! (I have an 18650 tube on order)
Built very solid - tube diameter is about 3X the thickness of any other Sigelei (or other mechanical) I've seen.
Very nice machine work and finishing.....everything fits together perfectly & no wonky threads.
Positive pin is adjustable & cap comes off exposing a full set of E-Go threads (interesting, but worthless IMHO...but pretty)
OK...the Cons:
With an EFEST IMR 18350 nipple top, battery rattles around in the tube and won't fire. No spring of any type, so the battery has to be a perfect length (I'll figure out how to fix that later..I'm just using a magnet as a spacer temporarily). The 18650 model may be slightly different, but I doubt it.
Here we go again; The fire button looks really slick, but its stiff, long throw, and gritty. Probably fixable once I get the thing apart, but my first attempts to disassemble by hand have been a no-go, so I may be in for a fun evening. At least the back of the button has something to grab on to.....
BTW...the switch fits the #19 perfectly...like its made for it.
EDIT: The fire button is a pisser....they've used the Uber-Glue on the damn button again. So far No Joy...even with my patented Stone-Hammer & a Bone Wrench method (whack it with a brass hammer).
....Soaking it in Kroil & Hoppe's # 9 for a few hours while I soak myself in some liquid fortification, and give it another go later....
Right out of the box:
Broken down:
First impressions:
Tiny little thing in 18350 mode, but hefty! (I have an 18650 tube on order)
Built very solid - tube diameter is about 3X the thickness of any other Sigelei (or other mechanical) I've seen.
Very nice machine work and finishing.....everything fits together perfectly & no wonky threads.
Positive pin is adjustable & cap comes off exposing a full set of E-Go threads (interesting, but worthless IMHO...but pretty)
OK...the Cons:
With an EFEST IMR 18350 nipple top, battery rattles around in the tube and won't fire. No spring of any type, so the battery has to be a perfect length (I'll figure out how to fix that later..I'm just using a magnet as a spacer temporarily). The 18650 model may be slightly different, but I doubt it.
Here we go again; The fire button looks really slick, but its stiff, long throw, and gritty. Probably fixable once I get the thing apart, but my first attempts to disassemble by hand have been a no-go, so I may be in for a fun evening. At least the back of the button has something to grab on to.....
BTW...the switch fits the #19 perfectly...like its made for it.
EDIT: The fire button is a pisser....they've used the Uber-Glue on the damn button again. So far No Joy...even with my patented Stone-Hammer & a Bone Wrench method (whack it with a brass hammer).
....Soaking it in Kroil & Hoppe's # 9 for a few hours while I soak myself in some liquid fortification, and give it another go later....
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Sorry but I lost track of which switch fits what. Which switch fits the 19b??
Solid brass firing pin for the #19 
http://www.celticvapes.co.uk/Segelei_solid_brass_firing_pin_x_1/p2086842_10150530.aspx
http://www.celticvapes.co.uk/Segelei_solid_brass_firing_pin_x_1/p2086842_10150530.aspx
Tks whit77 I just ordered the Solid brass firing pin for the #19, Looks way better than the magnet crappola.
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Solid brass firing pin for the #19
http://www.celticvapes.co.uk/Segelei_solid_brass_firing_pin_x_1/p2086842_10150530.aspx
Thanks for posting this, I've been stalking their site waiting to order.
Crazy thing is when I looked on their site a few days ago they only had the magnetic firing pin. My search is over
Crazy thing is when I looked on their site a few days ago they only had the magnetic firing pin. My search is over
Because Gary only just added them to the site
Because Gary only just added them to the site
Good Stuff, I must keep checking for new goodies there.
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