Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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I just used a pair of pliers and kept unscrewing. When it wouldn't unscrew anymore I just pulled out. Be careful though and put your finger on the top of the head so the pin that connects to the button won't fly off and land in a dark corner or another unbelievably well-hidden spot like mine did...
That wouldn't help at all. The entire top cap (atty and all) is still constantly connected to the + side of the battery, and the entire rest of the mod body is constantly connected to the - side of the battery, so any metal that touches anything above the delrin insulator (no matter how wide it was) and anything below the insulator at the same time will complete the circuit and cause it to fire. The only way to fix this that I can think of would be to isolate both the spring and the button (or at least a small bit that touches the center post) from the body of the mod and somehow connect the two with a wire or something.
In other words, it's virtually an impossible fix.
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So I guess the next step is to figure out what to do about the ones we have. I got mine from VaporTekUSA. They told me to keep it and if sigelei updated the #20 they would send me the update, otherwise they would send me another mod, possibly the 8w. I'm wondering if I should just tell VT to send me another mod rather than wait for an update from Sigelei. What would you do? I'm skeptical that Sigelei can fix the #20.
Generous offer....I just got a response from John @ Vaportek about mine, he just told me to send it back for a refund. I asked if they would email me a pre-paid shipping label like they did when they screwed up a previous order (they sent me a Stainless #19 when I ordered a Brass one), but haven't heard back from them yet.
I originally asked for a refund or an exchange but that's what they told me. I don't want to keep the mod. Maybe I'll email them back to see if I can exchange it for a 19b.
Finding information is so incredibly hard sometimes! Does anyone know if the 19b will work with a kick clone? I saw Todd's review on the 19b that says he wasn't able to get it to work, just curious if somebody here has.
Both of my 19s (A & E) have the Sigelei-Ks (Kick clone) in them - they work perfectly, as long as you put it together in the original configuration and REMOVE THE TOP SPRING!. If you reverse the config (510 end & button switched), they wont work right because the lower tube is larger in diameter and has open threads...
They actually work better in the #19 than my Evolv Kicks do for some reason.
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Ah, just saw that you specifically mention the 19a and 19e. I've heard from Todd's Reviews the kick works in the 19a but not the 19b. Anybody else get a Sigelei kick working in the 19b? It just doesn't make any sense it would work in the 19a but not the 19b.
I have the original 19. The only thing I can think that would cause a difference is, there might be a slight difference in the inner diameter of the tubes between the A and B?
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There should be no difference between the 19 a & b other than the Nzonic head. The problems Todd had with the b & the Kick was the top spring setup. If you remove the spring - it works fine (I have Nzonic heads - with the top spring removed - on both my A & E).
If your Kick isn't working, be sure it fits firmly inside the tube - the little gold button on the side of the device has to have a solid contact with the side of the tube or it won't fire (it's your ground point). If it's too loose, put something between the side opposite the gold pin & the tube to push the pin against the side of the tube - a piece of cut carto-condom works perfectly - I have to do that on an old Chi-Chi because the tube is too large for a snug fit. 90% of the problems with the Kick & CHIck (Sigelei-K) are due to poor grounding.
Good luck...
Thanks NamVet! I just knew a kick would work in the 19b and that Todd wasn't doing something right. So if you take the spring off the head, the battery just makes contact with the adjustable pin? I don't see how but are there any downsides/issues to taking the spring out?
The main reason that the spring is there is, some PSOE don't know when its tight enough. So you don't screw the mod down too tight and potentially damage your battery causing an internal hard short in the battery. Other than that, the only other purpose that the spring could potentially be there for is to help stop any rattle from the battery. Its a bottleneck as most all springs are when it comes to conductivity.
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Removing the spring (and the tiny screw that holds it in) actually makes it more stable (IMHO)...one less thing in the current path. The backside of the positive post/pin will just sit directly on top of the Kick/CHIck top disk. The only downside to removing the spring is that you can't run it in 18350 mode (without a Kick)...the tube will be too short. I think that was the primary purpose of the spring setup - the 19a has a thicker Delrin collar and longer adjustment screw to accomplish the same purpose.
Whatever the original idea was, it failed miserably - just something else to go wrong. I overtightened mine when I first got it & the spring cocked sideways & shorted the top of the battery....not fun. No major damage - other than it overheated & collapsed the spring, melted the top Delrin ring a little, & got VERY hot...the battery was toast also. Took the spring out & never put them back in.
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When I found that it wouldn't work in 18350, I used a small 1/8" neo magnet on the top. I know its not the safest idea. When I eventually get around to it, I'll grab a nylon washer to insulate the magnet so it doesn't slip off the battery and cause any damage.
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I would also love to know if anyone has done this. Tried to remove the throw switch tonight, but coulden't manage to get it off. Was worried I'd break it if I tried any harder.
#20 MOSFET Switch Mod
This is a more advanced mod, but I have been asked to share. So here it is, not quite finished.
Here are the basic parts
- Tact switch w/snap on button (I machined a ss button to fit over the black snap on button)
- P channel MOSFET
- 47k ohm resistor
Here is the components soldered together.
- I used 20g fine stranded silicone shielded wire
- Hollowed out the delrin body
- Shortened the top positive pin
- I just soldered a magnet for the positive battery contact to test. I will make a delrin insert for the bottom of the original delrin housing.
Here it is put together
I would like to make an adjustable positive atty connection, but I'm not sure if there is room.
Using a P-Channel MOSFET works with positive up battery along with Kick1, but not with the Kick2 as the Kick2 outputs a negative voltage. So a Kick2 will likely need a N-channel MOSFET, but I haven't tried it yet.
Here is some info for using P and N channel MOSFETs as switches.
Most of the below information came from DrMA as he helped a ton on this project.
"I'm usually of the opinion that N-channel MOSFETs make better switches, because they tend to have lower resistance [RDS(on)]: i.e. low-side switching. Assuming you'll be using just one LiPo (nominal 3.7V) when picking a FET to work with, look for one a VGS(th) <1.5V, enough current to support your application +50% [ID(on)] so it doesn't overheat, and appropriate breakdown voltage (VDS > 4.2V)
Here's a very nice and easy to understand guide: Using the Power MOSFET as a Switch - MOSFET Switching
Here's the basics of FET switching:
- use N-channel FETs to switch the ground (low-side switching). Gate needs a pull-down resistor for OFF, and gets connected to the (+) side of the batt for ON
- use P-channel FETs to switch the (+) connection (high-side). Gate needs a pull-up resistor for OFF, and gets connected to ground for ON.
In general, P-FETs have higher resistance than N-FETs.
In a P-channel FET, current flows and gets switched in the direction Source->Drain. The body diode is reverse biased with respect to S->D
In contrast, for a N-channel FET, current flows and gets switched in the direction Drain->Source. The body diode is forward biased with respect to S->D
The resistor is used to bring the Gate potential to reference when the switch is off. It also functions as a current-limiting resistor when the switch is on, so you don't short the battery. You want the highest resistance value that accomplishes a full off state with the switch open. You'll need to play with the resistor value to get the desired results. I'm guessing it would be between 10K and 50K. This is where a variable resistor comes in really handy."
Here are some simple diagrams that DrMA provided and then I added some info.
Low-Side (negative) Switching using a N-Channel MOSFET.
High-Side (positive) Switching using a P-Channel MOSFET.
This is a more advanced mod, but I have been asked to share. So here it is, not quite finished.
Here are the basic parts
- Tact switch w/snap on button (I machined a ss button to fit over the black snap on button)
- P channel MOSFET
- 47k ohm resistor
Here is the components soldered together.
- I used 20g fine stranded silicone shielded wire
- Hollowed out the delrin body
- Shortened the top positive pin
- I just soldered a magnet for the positive battery contact to test. I will make a delrin insert for the bottom of the original delrin housing.
Here it is put together
I would like to make an adjustable positive atty connection, but I'm not sure if there is room.
Using a P-Channel MOSFET works with positive up battery along with Kick1, but not with the Kick2 as the Kick2 outputs a negative voltage. So a Kick2 will likely need a N-channel MOSFET, but I haven't tried it yet.
Here is some info for using P and N channel MOSFETs as switches.
Most of the below information came from DrMA as he helped a ton on this project.
"I'm usually of the opinion that N-channel MOSFETs make better switches, because they tend to have lower resistance [RDS(on)]: i.e. low-side switching. Assuming you'll be using just one LiPo (nominal 3.7V) when picking a FET to work with, look for one a VGS(th) <1.5V, enough current to support your application +50% [ID(on)] so it doesn't overheat, and appropriate breakdown voltage (VDS > 4.2V)
Here's a very nice and easy to understand guide: Using the Power MOSFET as a Switch - MOSFET Switching
Here's the basics of FET switching:
- use N-channel FETs to switch the ground (low-side switching). Gate needs a pull-down resistor for OFF, and gets connected to the (+) side of the batt for ON
- use P-channel FETs to switch the (+) connection (high-side). Gate needs a pull-up resistor for OFF, and gets connected to ground for ON.
In general, P-FETs have higher resistance than N-FETs.
In a P-channel FET, current flows and gets switched in the direction Source->Drain. The body diode is reverse biased with respect to S->D
In contrast, for a N-channel FET, current flows and gets switched in the direction Drain->Source. The body diode is forward biased with respect to S->D
The resistor is used to bring the Gate potential to reference when the switch is off. It also functions as a current-limiting resistor when the switch is on, so you don't short the battery. You want the highest resistance value that accomplishes a full off state with the switch open. You'll need to play with the resistor value to get the desired results. I'm guessing it would be between 10K and 50K. This is where a variable resistor comes in really handy."
Here are some simple diagrams that DrMA provided and then I added some info.
Low-Side (negative) Switching using a N-Channel MOSFET.
High-Side (positive) Switching using a P-Channel MOSFET.
Well after having this #13a for a little while now, I think I won't be buying or recommending Sigelei's from here on out.
The bottom firing button is, for lack of better words, utter ..... It fails to close the circuit properly, and when it does manage to work, it results in horrid voltage drop. Until my HCigar Chi You comes in, I'm relegated to using it without the button, shortening the tube until the bottom of the battery grounds on the very outside of the firing pin housing, which results in much more acceptable voltage drop, but unfortunately isn't very convenient on the go.
I guess I should have listened, but you live and learn right?
The bottom firing button is, for lack of better words, utter ..... It fails to close the circuit properly, and when it does manage to work, it results in horrid voltage drop. Until my HCigar Chi You comes in, I'm relegated to using it without the button, shortening the tube until the bottom of the battery grounds on the very outside of the firing pin housing, which results in much more acceptable voltage drop, but unfortunately isn't very convenient on the go.
I guess I should have listened, but you live and learn right?
Following bapgood, sorta.....
I used a cheap switch that came on a package of led strips from the automotive store. I think if I grind down my top pin a smidge more, it will fit. For the top, I have a 10-32 screw that fits just right. For now, on the bottom, I cut a piece of plastic and the pos wire directly contacts the battery. Eventually, I'll ask for the part numbers of the items you used and maybe beg you for 2 SS switch pieces. Lmao.
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I used a cheap switch that came on a package of led strips from the automotive store. I think if I grind down my top pin a smidge more, it will fit. For the top, I have a 10-32 screw that fits just right. For now, on the bottom, I cut a piece of plastic and the pos wire directly contacts the battery. Eventually, I'll ask for the part numbers of the items you used and maybe beg you for 2 SS switch pieces. Lmao.
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