I don't know about the #19, but someone just had a #8 hot spring collapse and needed to be replaced (maybe 2 days ago?). It would be nice to know for sure on all of these mods. I replaced the #20 spring with a hot spring, but still use a fuse anyway. I don't think the spring in the #13B is a hot spring, but I don't know that for sure either.
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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I do have a somewhat silly question seeing as I don't have my #19 yet after about a month of waiting. Has anyone considered how easy the "Hot-Spring" in the top cap would be to replace in the event it collapsed? I am honestly hoping I get the magnet in my 19b head because it seems I may be able to work with that better
The one in the eVic would work. Or at least the one in my eVic.
Yeah, I'd be surprised if any of the Sig springs are hot springs, it's just basic metallurgy...If there's a dead short, the high current heats up the spring and the small guage wire of the spring looses it's tensile strength, a coil spring also acts like a resistor which increases this effect. I've never bought a hotspring but if I did I'd like to see an amperage rating (like on a fuse or circuit breaker) on what vendors are advertising as "hotsprings" and charging more $ for. IE: "This hotspring is guaranteed to collapse at a max of XXAmps".
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Just saw this one and I want it bad. Anybody seen one for sale yet?
http://www.sigelei.com/goods.php?id=174
http://www.sigelei.com/goods.php?id=174
Welcome to the thread Asmotron,
I recommend using only protected batteries in a mech mod especially if it's your first one. These batteries are highly rated and I personally use them https://www.fasttech.com/products/1141104 They're very good, they're protected, they last a long time between charges and I've used them at 0.9 ohms with no problems. You're also gonna need a charger, https://www.fasttech.com/products/1119501 This is a very good charger, I have one and like it alot. It's 4-bay and charges Lithium, Nicd and NiMH batteries of all different sizes. It's not quite as fast as the more expensive ones but with the $ I saved I bought more batteries. Personally I'd rather have more batteries than a charger that's a little faster and/or has features that I don't need. There's also a cheaper Nitecore I2 https://www.fasttech.com/products/1421/10001638/1327201 It has all the same features as the I4 but is only a 2-bay.
The only thing I didn't like about the Nitecore is that the sliders were sticky but it was an easy fix. I applied a little silicone grease to the sliders and now they slide like butter. https://www.fasttech.com/products/1275200 You can also get silicone grease at your local auto parts store, it's also called ignition grease or di-electric grease.
Keep us updated on the mods you do to your #20... Remember to use a light touch if you sand, remove chrome, clean threads, etc. on the brass parts of these mods. The brass is a very soft and has fine threads.
I recommend using only protected batteries in a mech mod especially if it's your first one. These batteries are highly rated and I personally use them https://www.fasttech.com/products/1141104 They're very good, they're protected, they last a long time between charges and I've used them at 0.9 ohms with no problems. You're also gonna need a charger, https://www.fasttech.com/products/1119501 This is a very good charger, I have one and like it alot. It's 4-bay and charges Lithium, Nicd and NiMH batteries of all different sizes. It's not quite as fast as the more expensive ones but with the $ I saved I bought more batteries. Personally I'd rather have more batteries than a charger that's a little faster and/or has features that I don't need. There's also a cheaper Nitecore I2 https://www.fasttech.com/products/1421/10001638/1327201 It has all the same features as the I4 but is only a 2-bay.
The only thing I didn't like about the Nitecore is that the sliders were sticky but it was an easy fix. I applied a little silicone grease to the sliders and now they slide like butter. https://www.fasttech.com/products/1275200 You can also get silicone grease at your local auto parts store, it's also called ignition grease or di-electric grease.
Keep us updated on the mods you do to your #20... Remember to use a light touch if you sand, remove chrome, clean threads, etc. on the brass parts of these mods. The brass is a very soft and has fine threads.
Well I'm pretty sure I'm suffering a brain hemorrhage now after cramming this entire thread into my head over the last two days!
I have a #20 on the way from RichManVapors and I couldn't be more excited. This is my first mod of any kind, currently on a Volt 78mm battery. I don't have any batteries or a head yet for it, but still. Excitement. I think I'm going to deal with the gap for now, pick up a Vivi Nova or some other simple-ish tank (I've been contemplating Carto Tanks lately), then upgrade to an RSST.
Someone had a nice list of batteries somewhere around page 180-190 but I'll be buggered if I can find it now. Anyone want to link me back to it?
Also is anyone running a 2cent or... whatever the other one is... on their #20?
I also have some ideas for switch redesign that may work well for an adjustable head, but I'll come back to that once I've played and have things setup.
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Anyone seen the #8D? It looks like the Natural kinda.
telescopic-8d_TELESCOPE_SIGELEI Electronic Cigarette -
telescopic-8d_TELESCOPE_SIGELEI Electronic Cigarette -
Anyone seen the #8D? It looks like the Natural kinda.
telescopic-8d_TELESCOPE_SIGELEI Electronic Cigarette -
Now this one I like. I was wanting to get a natural but I might wait to get this one instead. Any one carry this #8D yet?
Anyone seen the #8D? It looks like the Natural kinda.
telescopic-8d_TELESCOPE_SIGELEI Electronic Cigarette -
I like the button too. It looks like the bottom cap is also shorter, I wonder if ther overall length of the 8d is shorter than the 8b
Does anybody know where I can get those brass nuts? The ones that I can only find are shaped like an octagon which wont fit into the round cup.The inserts are threaded into the caps; unscrew, dont pull. For the firing button, hold the inside part of the pin and unscrew the button. You many need to heat it up a little to break the bond of the thread locker. A BiC will do the trick.
Best thing I did to my 8's was scrap the spring and expose the brass.
Here are my spring delete mods:
Original "no modification required" mod
I ran that way for a good long time without any problems. Then I finally got around to firing up the lathe to do this...
I took two 8-32 brass nuts and turned them down to .238" and then knurled the O.D (.242" final diameter). Cut down a 8-32 brass screw equal to the length of the two nuts, assembled the nuts on the screw, and pressed the assembly into the spring cup.
Original idea credit goes to geek, way back in post #20.
That's all I could find too. Just screw a few of the odd shaped ones down so you can chuck onto the screw with a drill. Then screw another one on the screw, and grind it down with you method of choice. I used a metal file and some emery cloth. Not sure of the grit came in a random pack.
I like the looks of this #8D! I'd sure like to see the button and firing assembly. Anyone?
ok looks like my sig20 continuously fires without pressing the button. 
any thoughts?
any thoughts?
ok looks like my sig20 continuously fires without pressing the button.
Spring is shot in the button assembly. Probably melted.
That's what happened to mine too. Sorry to hear it. I started a thread in the budget mech mod group about it. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...hanical-mods-d3142-sigelei-20-switch-mod.html
I have a want add in the classies for a broken #20 to mod. I want to install a switch bought from ebay, need a #20 to experiment with.
Please share when you mod the #20. I like the mod and want to keep it, but still don't like/trust the switch.
Basically its a 3a momentary switch that I bought. Would not be good for the super low ohms but I rarely run those anyway. The problem is, it will take heavy modding of the derlin plastic in the cap to make it work. I may wind up with scrap metal. But if it does work, I will have a switch I can trust and depend on.
I have a completely stock #20 that I use around the house and really like it. However I would like the one I mod to be my beater when working in the yard etc.
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