I'm the same with wanting as low as possible really and I've managed to get it down to 1.5 Ohm and working fine on the Sigmax which surprised me actually, 2.0 Ohm on the Aga-T.
Sigelei Zmax and my RBA problems.
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I, too, believe it to be the carbon bridging the atty contacts. Are you burning in your cotton wicks or firing them even a bit dry?
Do you wet your wicks thoroughly prior to use? I've heard of issues with VV/VW mods and bottom-fed RBAs not wicking the juice up quickly-enough on the first firing and blowing coils. I understand that blown coils isn't the issue, but if it gets hot enough to blow a coil it definitely gets hot enough to fully carbonize the wick. It just seems to me that such a powerful mod (Disclaimer: which I have no experience with) wouldn't have any errors of this sort.
Having studied to be an electronics engineer, it's impossible for nickel or silver wire to make any difference in the testing or end characteristics of the heating coil, with exception of their own resistance lowering due to heat, and they're already such low resistance that this would be negligible.
Do you wet your wicks thoroughly prior to use? I've heard of issues with VV/VW mods and bottom-fed RBAs not wicking the juice up quickly-enough on the first firing and blowing coils. I understand that blown coils isn't the issue, but if it gets hot enough to blow a coil it definitely gets hot enough to fully carbonize the wick. It just seems to me that such a powerful mod (Disclaimer: which I have no experience with) wouldn't have any errors of this sort.
Having studied to be an electronics engineer, it's impossible for nickel or silver wire to make any difference in the testing or end characteristics of the heating coil, with exception of their own resistance lowering due to heat, and they're already such low resistance that this would be negligible.
It is my understanding that with the way the PWM is implemented in the Smok devices that it starts the "fire" with a spike, I think the PCB's are the same in the clones as well. A lot of guys were having trouble with with shorts on SS wicks on the Maxs but they would work fine on a Provari.
Geeze. If it really is that simple of an issue and that wide-spread (the starting spike), it makes me wonder why we don't just use low-resistance, high-inductance inductors in the juice-well area (when available). Inductors will stop (or lower) this pulse and then allow DC to pass.
I'm probably going to be getting a Sigelei Zmax this Christmas, so I'll make sure to set it up on my oscilloscope and see what it shows.
I'm probably going to be getting a Sigelei Zmax this Christmas, so I'll make sure to set it up on my oscilloscope and see what it shows.
This situation has pretty much been corrected with #8 sub menu being set to VRMS as long as a person sets it to that.
P. Busardo's review on the Sigelei. At 20:50 you can clearly see his 'scope of the output. It doesn't show the tail-end of the waveform, but there are no evident spikes, and he doesn't mention any spikes.
A PBusardo Review - Sigelei Z-Max - YouTube
I just ordered one. I'll be sure to take a look when I get it. Thank goodness for tracking numbers!
A PBusardo Review - Sigelei Z-Max - YouTube
I just ordered one. I'll be sure to take a look when I get it. Thank goodness for tracking numbers!
Well I experimented and did a 9 wrap coil around some cotton using 28g on the Penelope.
The result was 1.4 ohms.
The result was 1.4 ohms.
I only use it for a half hour. I didn't like the vape and the coil took too long to heat up.
So back to 32g and a 4 wrap @ 1.8 ohms.
So back to 32g and a 4 wrap @ 1.8 ohms.
Hey guys quick noob question.. I'm using NR and LR Boge cartos on my sigmax right now and I'm having an issue with the "low load" reading as well. I can get one or two pulls after I initially screw carto on and then BAM "low load". Also, Ive noticed that my connector seems to be getting loose. it kinda wiggles around and I know that cant be good. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
The SigMax is really picky when it comes to low voltage. From my experience, it will not fire below 1.2 Ohms (I think) And even that might be pushing it. So if it's not working then maybe the voltage is too low or there might be a short. But even the SigMax has a feature where it will sometimes say 'SHORT' on the screen.
Have you tried the carto's on another mod? Or tested the ohms on an ohm reader?
I have a YJ that gave me the same problem, turns out the center pin is faulty. It would give me ohm readings of 2.4, 1.7 1.4, and then say low and not fire.
Well as far as rebuildable's go...I use 32g kanthal on the RBA I put on my Sigmax, and I use 30g kanthal on my RBA on the Evic.
same here... first up in ( haven't checked if in RMS or not) wattage setting i tried a LR 1.5 Ohm AMG hybrid disposable atomizer just for kicks.... i got Low Load... metered it on my Provari it was dipping to 1.2 Ohm. The Vari V2 handled it.
Put a 1.7 Pene on it ( i have the premade coils which meter around 1.7) and no issues...
Well no issues of that kind...
There is something about the connector that won't seat the Pene properly; its a little crooked and a 1-2mm gap... which makes the draw annoyingly airy.... works fine on regular 510 hybrid attys....
*I have a Cobra 3ml on it now and at 1.6 ) Ohms its working just fine.
No answers here just observations.
Put a 1.7 Pene on it ( i have the premade coils which meter around 1.7) and no issues...
Well no issues of that kind...
There is something about the connector that won't seat the Pene properly; its a little crooked and a 1-2mm gap... which makes the draw annoyingly airy.... works fine on regular 510 hybrid attys....
*I have a Cobra 3ml on it now and at 1.6 ) Ohms its working just fine.
No answers here just observations.
I prefer thin wicks for fast heat up. Battery life is much better as the heat isn't wasted just getting the wick up to temp.
I had similar issues with my Sigelei. I changed to RMS mode an now its pretty good. I also started with 30ga NiCr wire and found it bridged too often with the high number of coils (15) I had to wrap to get to ~2ohms, so I switch to 32ga 10 wraps on a thin SS wick and now I can vape forever without shorts.
It seems that even a small speck of carbon will trigger a short on a PWM output device.
The Sigelei is far better in this regard than my Vmax V2, which will pop any coil I make after 5 hits.
I have that same experience. It is very easily seen on Zmax than on a ProVari when the display is set on resistance. The fluctuations, I believe, is real. It is cause by shorts between the heater windings to the wick. The more coil shorting the lower the readings. The shorts are not dead shorts. They are leaks similar to semicondutor leaks in electronics. What I do now when I make my new heater coil is to wind it for higher ohmic readings. I find setting it at 2-2.9 ohms is best for me. The readings do not go down to the "unsafe level for ZMax. !.3 ohm is the lowest ZMax will take as nonshort condition. The resistance, on any heater, goes up as it wears out due to ersosions. The gauge of the wire gets thinner or smaller.
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