Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

[MrsP0721]

Hey mrs p, I noticed you said telescoped out.. Does That mean your running 18350 or so? I would wonder how you apply the noalox. The tolerance on the thread slop varies from batch to batch from what I've heard. Looser the threads more problematic they can be and also with the noalox thickness needed IMO.

If your running 18350-500 the way I would apply the noalox is on the inside of the telescopic tube. Gauge where te main threads will sit in the tube by lining the main body up to the side. In this spot on the inside apply a good coat of noalox around the threads. Screw the body into its set position and lightly work back and forth by a half turn a couple times. Wipe away the excess when the tube is set to length. This way the threads at the point of contact will be full of noalox.

For instance if you put it at the top and thread the body all th way in most the noalox will be lost in non contact areas of the tube.

Good luck!

Hey Jeremy. I put a nice glob of Noalox on the thread (male) and twisted it up and down several times to make sure it was nicely coated all the way through the tube and when I feel it was coated well I just twisted it all the way out to wipe the extra goo lol and then screwed it tight (man that sounds dirty lol). I do leave it in the 350 mode.

PS I have a wrap on it (it's supposed to be white) so the extra that is not in contact with the threads is not just sitting on the mod, although Idk if that would hurt it or not.

 

[fairmana]

Good catch Jeremy, thanks for pointing that out. In my previous post, I didn't think to consider the situation where a smaller battery might be used (I pretty much exclusively use 18650's in mine so it didn't occur to me). Anyone using their telescopic Sig in a collapsed configuration would want to be sure that enough Noalox was in the area where the upper tube will meet the lower tube. Applying Noalox to the inside of the lower tube definitely makes more sense (not on the upper tube as I suggested).

 

[fairmana]

Hey Jeremy. I put a nice glob of Noalox on the thread (male) and twisted it up and down several times to make sure it was nicely coated all the way through the tube and when I feel it was coated well I just twisted it all the way out to wipe the extra goo lol and then screwed it tight (man that sounds dirty lol). I do leave it in the 350 mode.

PS I have a wrap on it (it's supposed to be white) so the extra that is not in contact with the threads is not just sitting on the mod, although Idk if that would hurt it or not.

MrsP0721,
Applying your Noalox the way you describe sounds like it spreads your Noalox too thinly over all the threads. I would try what Jeremy recommended. Remove your lower tube and place it besides your upper tube in about the same position it will be in if it were screwed on. The area where the upper tube's threads will sit in relation to the lower tube is where you'll want to make sure the majority of your Noalox is applied on the inside of the lower tube. Once you've got that spot figured out, apply several small globs of Noalox on the end of your finger and reach into the lower tube to apply it. Do that in several placed around the inside at the same height and then screw the lower tube onto the upper tube to where it should be. Wipe away any excess from the threads that extend below the upper tube with your finger or a small rag. Finally, apply some Noalox to your battery cap's threads and insert your 18350 battery.

Hopefully the extra Noalox will resolve your problem.

 

[MrsP0721]

Ok, I'll do that too. I do have it in the battery thread as well. I have it on all threads other than the top (ego/510 threads).

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[Fegbri]

I haven't yet tried stacked mode, so I can't say about that, however my problems apparently indicate that the Mean mode does put out QUITE a bit more power -- the toppers I was running on my vv3's as high as 9.5 or 10 watts, were giving me a burnt taste on the Sig at *6 watts* -- I had to run in voltage mode, just to be able to run my T3S's or Hypertank2 at a low enough setting that I didn't get a burnt taste -- like 3.2 - 3.5 volts, which is not even 5w.

So glad I discovered the proper way to set this thing!

Andria

So did you try the Nautilus Again in RMS? If you get a working coil, I think it is the best tank I have used.

 

[Fegbri]

Hmm... not sure I want to skate that close to the edge. I've noticed a couple of small oddities with the button/menu, but I've chalked it up to user clumsiness... it's usually when I have it set in "OUT: OFF" and I'm trying to change it back to ON, and instead of going where it should, to that first menu option, it goes on into "Power Increase" so I have to cycle it back around. The battery cap and telescope threads still seem quite smooth, no issues whatever. In fact the telescope threads are so smooth that once I get it about halfway back to fully-closed, a little spin actually has some travel, where it keeps spinning for a bit before I spin it again.

I do continue to notice some issues with the connector threads, though. The ego threads seem mostly ok, but the 510 threads, really difficult sometimes to get the male part threaded in properly, and it feels like it sticks, halfway thru... I don't want to force it if it's misthreaded, so I work it back out, then try again. Did someone recommend some e-juice for that? Not sure I want to put ejuice there, but what about just plain PG? I have a big bottle of it, and it is a bit on the oily side. I know those threads are stainless steel and all, but I'm not sure the substance exists that I can't screw up somehow.

Andria

Speaking of that, the instructions say the V5 is turned off and on by 5 quick clicks. It always turns on ok, but I have never been able to shut it off. It always goes into menu mode after the first 3 clicks then ends up on "power down" after the last 2 quick clicks. Does that not work? Maybe because of the first on/off option they didn't program a way to turn it off?

 

[JeremyR]

Mrs p I am cracking up..

Applying in that fashion essentially wastes the noalox in threads you don't need it and causes there to be very little at the point of contact. It is only Needed specifically where the threads are mated during use. The amount depends on the tolerance from the factory. In my eyes you can not have too much in the connection area of the threads as any excess will be forced out by the pressure. Simply wipe the excess from your tube. This is also another reason removing the bottom cap to replace batteries is recommended. As not to work the telescope threads free of noalox.

 

[Fegbri]

I apply multiple smallish blobs of Noalox straight from the Noalox tube around the circumference of the threads (to the top of the mod with the lower tube removed). Then I thread the lower tube onto the upper mod only about as far as I would normally have it with a battery installed. Then I reverse it back and forth once or twice to spread it out evenly in the threads. Try to keep your Noalox blobs from being too tall on the threads or most of it will just push off onto the leading edge of the lower tube when you screw it on. I found that applying Noalox to the upper part of the mod (instead of inside the lower tube) is easier and also helps keep excess Noalox from getting onto the battery on the inside of the tube. You may still have to wipe a very small amount of Noalox off the first battery you install after doing it. Finally I wipe off any excess that got above the threads onto the upper portion of the mod. I do the same thing as above on the battery cap, only I use smaller blobs of Noalox since there are fewer threads.

You'll get the feel of how much to use after you do it once or twice. The basic idea is to apply it liberally, but at the same time not apply so much that it gets all over everything else where you don't want it.

When your done, the threads should feel gooey with Noalox but the bottom tube will still be easy to turn. You'll feel a slight resistance in the threads due to the Noalox (won't turn as easy as without Noalox) but they should be smooth and feel well lubricated.

A great method I use is apply the noalox to the outside upper threads, then use a credit card or some plastic piece to "swipe" or wipe the threads all the way around with the edge of the card. This will only leave noalox lying in the thread channels. Screw up and down a few times and your done and it's distributed nicely. No mess and you don't get it all over. Do the same on the battery cap.
I tried using a rag at first but I found out it was wiping away the noalox even in the channels of the threads, so the plastic card leaves the perfect amount.

 

[MrsP0721]

Mrs p I am cracking up..

Applying in that fashion essentially wastes the noalox in threads you don't need it and causes there to be very little at the point of contact. It is only Needed specifically where the threads are mated. The amount depends on the tolerance from the factory. In my eyes you can not have too much in the mating area as any excess will be force out by the pressure. Simply wipe the excess from your tube. This is also another reason removing the bottom cap to replace batteries is recommended. As not to work the telescope threads free of noalox.

So basically I need more goo on the tube? But only where the two ends mate? I think I got it!

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[MrsP0721]

A great method I use is apply the noalox to the outside upper threads, then use a credit card or some plastic piece to "swipe" or wipe the threads all the way around with the edge of the card. This will only leave noalox lying in the thread channels. Screw up and down a few times and your done and it's distributed nicely. No mess and you don't get it all over. Do the same on the battery cap.
I tried using a rag at first but I found out it was wiping away the noalox even in the channels of the threads, so the plastic card leaves the perfect amount.

That's a really good idea.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Express using Tapatalk

 

[yzer]

Speaking of that, the instructions say the V5 is turned off and on by 5 quick clicks. It always turns on ok, but I have never been able to shut it off. It always goes into menu mode after the first 3 clicks then ends up on "power down" after the last 2 quick clicks. Does that not work? Maybe because of the first on/off option they didn't program a way to turn it off?

Five quick clicks will make the Sigelei system boot up after the battery is installed. Another five quick clicks does nothing except bring up the Menu starting with Menu Item #3. After the Sigelei system is booted up three quick clicks brings up the Menu starting with Menu Item #1.

Menu Item No. 1 will disable the firing function or return the firing function if previously disabled.

The only way to shut the Sigelei system down is to remove the battery cap or the battery. You should wait 5 seconds after removing the battery cap or battery to get a system shut-down. Sometimes the Sigelei system will remain booted up if the battery cap or battery is removed for a shorter amount of time.

 

[AndriaD]

So did you try the Nautilus Again in RMS? If you get a working coil, I think it is the best tank I have used.

No, I sold the Nautilus today. Couldn't stand how it made my juice taste.

Andria

 

[fairmana]

A great method I use is apply the noalox to the outside upper threads, then use a credit card or some plastic piece to "swipe" or wipe the threads all the way around with the edge of the card. This will only leave noalox lying in the thread channels. Screw up and down a few times and your done and it's distributed nicely. No mess and you don't get it all over. Do the same on the battery cap.
I tried using a rag at first but I found out it was wiping away the noalox even in the channels of the threads, so the plastic card leaves the perfect amount.

Fegbri, thanks for sharing that tip.

That sounds like a great way to be "measure" how much Noalox to apply for those that are still uncertain. My only concern might be how much Noalox gets wasted on the credit card? I personally don't need to clean up much mess when I apply it straight from the tube, but that's probably just from getting so much practice doing it. Others may not have as much luck doing it that way, so your method might be the tip they've been waiting for.

Regardless, I'll give your method a try next time and see how it works out. Thanks again.

 

[yzer]

My wife (who never smoked or vaped) just discovered that I now have three identical and brand-new looking Sigeleis. She understood why I had two V3s because one was needed for a back-up.

I wondered if she thought I was over-doing things by buying the new V5 and explained how I thought V3 #2 was a goner so I bought a replacement. A week later V3 #2 had a complete recovery.

She explained that the only way to find lost keys or a lost cell phone charger is to buy new ones. In fact, the quickest way to find lost keys or cell phone chargers is to buy replacements. Once you have the replacement, the original mysteriously appears.

That made perfect sense to me. The only way I could get V3 #2 to work perfectly again was to buy the V5.

 

[Fegbri]

Just realized the new Kanger Aerotank Mega with the steel tank will be an amazing match with my V5 slant top. Almost matching ribs and holes. What do you think? (sorry for the poor photo edit!)

 

[yzer]

Just realized the new Kanger Aerotank Mega with the steel tank will be an amazing match with my V5 slant top. Almost matching ribs and holes. What do you think? (sorry for the poor photo edit!)

View attachment 331053

Looks great! 19mm carto tanks would also look good.

 

[Fegbri]

Looks great! 19mm carto tanks would also look good.

I've never used a carto tank. What would you recommend for the Zmax for me to try out?

 

[yzer]

The Sigelei V3 and V5 have 510/eGo connection and will fit any carto tank using 510 cartos. What I use is in my signature. The diameter of a 22mm tank will look great on the flat top as the outside diameter of the flat top is 23mm. 19mm looks good too on a flat top as it lines up with the inside of the bevel. On round tops I'm assuming the inside of the bevel is also 19mm, so a 19mm carto would look good.

 

[MotherNatural]

New review on the V5
Sigelei Zmax v5 Telescopic Review

 

[fairmana]

My wife (who never smoked or vaped) just discovered that I now have three identical and brand-new looking Sigeleis. She understood why I had two V3s because one was needed for a back-up.

I wondered if she thought I was over-doing things by buying the new V5 and explained how I thought V3 #2 was a goner so I bought a replacement. A week later V3 #2 had a complete recovery.

She explained that the only way to find lost keys or a lost cell phone charger is to buy new ones. In fact, the quickest way to find lost keys or cell phone chargers is to buy replacements. Once you have the replacement, the original mysteriously appears.

That made perfect sense to me. The only way I could get V3 #2 to work perfectly again was to buy the V5.

LOL! She's absolutely correct!