Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

[fairmana]

The buck and boost circuits are factory set (based on the circuit components) to provide a "working voltage" that the device will use in the square wave being applied to the atomizer. In other words, the buck and boost circuit outputs aren't "variable" so to speak, so in that sense, the buck and boost voltages will only change as a direct result of battery sag or if the atomizer resistance changes varying the voltage drop across it. The sigelei is designed to only vary the duty cycle to maintain a constant output, and as far as I can tell, does nothing to the buck or boost circuit outputs.

The buck circuit is only used when stacked, and the boost circuit is only used with a single battery (never both circuits at the same time). The buck circuit reduces the available battery voltage with the benefit of increasing the available current, whereas the boost circuit increases the battery voltage "at the expense" of the available battery current. In that respect, you can see how using the buck circuit is the way to go if you're looking to draw increased currents over time.

 

[BackDoc]

Hi mana , please translate

 

[JeremyR]

Hah hah yeah sub ohmers can burn through a battery in no time at all. The more amp load the faster it drains.

So the nice thing about the zmax is you can upgrade it to a high powered long lasting battery device by simply stacking batteries.

And remember some may get all day on a single battery with a 8w output but the exact same single battery to me lasts only 4-6 hours trying to max it out at 15w and lower ohms. And its pretty weak too.

..excellent follow up fairmana

 

[Monotremata]

All the babble on this forum about mods and mechs and I don't think I ever saw this. Thanks for the input.

That's cause most folks here will freak out and tell you you're gonna blow up if you stack.. But if Sig says it works, it works.. I skipped the V5 and got a Vamo instead and it also rocks with stacked 350s, just like the manual says it can.

 

[PaulBHC]

The stacking isn't what I was talking about. It is the drop in watts with the drop in battery volts on a regulated mod. Lots of chatter about lack of step down on some mods.

I took out one coil. It now reads 2.5 ohm. Set at 11watts it puts out plenty of vapor but the flavor is not as good maybe.

So after a year of vaping (this time around) I still don't see a big advantage to dual coils over a single coil, low ohms over medium ohms, high watts over moderate watts.

 

[fairmana]

Sorry if I didn't say that very well.

When using 2 batteries in series you have a little over 8 volts with fresh batteries. The "buck circuit" reduces that voltage to approximately 7 volts. The extra voltage from the batteries is not wasted, but is converted into additional current. This provides extra current in addition to the current the batteries can already provide.

When using 1 battery, you have about 4 volts with a fresh battery. The "boost circuit" increases that voltage to about 6 volts. To do that, the boost circuit converts some of the battery's current capacity into voltage. In this mode, current capacity is already reduced since the boost circuit is drawing extra current from the battery in order to increase the battery's existing 4 volts to 6 volts. You can see the disadvantage to using this mode if you're wanting your atomizer to draw larger currents since a single battery will discharge rather quickly in comparison.

At any rate, the 7 volts (in stacked mode) or the 6 volts (in single battery mode) are both basically "hard wired" into the device. These voltages are not varied by the circuitry and won't change regardless of what you set the output power of the Sigelei to. I should say that these voltages will fall somewhat as the battery capacity droops during vaping, but for the sake of argument, you can think of them as static voltages. The main point I'm trying to make here is that the Sigelei doesn't vary these voltages to control the output power.

When you fire the Sigelei, the Microprocessor monitors the output, and if it sees that the output is low, it compensates by increasing the Duty Cycle of the PWM signal until the "average" output power again matches what the user has set in the menu. As the batteries droop, it continues to compensate in this way until eventually the output PWM signal is maxed out at 100% duty cycle (the 6 or 7 volts is applied the entire length of the pulse). After that, the output can no longer be compensated by increasing the Duty Cycle, so the batteries would need to be replaced with fresh ones.

Here's decent info on Pulse Width Modulation. More info on Duty Cycle can be found on Wikipedia or SparkFun

 

[BackDoc]

Excellent, thanks

 

[VapieDan]

Today only Sigelei V3 mini for $ 17.28 using coupon YEAHBABY. Not sure of shipping charge but orders over $35 are free.

http://www.vaporbeast.com/catalog/product/view/id/505?acc=c4ca4238a0b923820dcc509a6f75849b

Update: USPS first class shipping is $2.68 bringing total to $19.96. By the way all colors available at this time.

 

[IMRs]

Today only Sigelei V3 mini for $ 17.28 using coupon YEAHBABY. Not sure of shipping charge but orders over $35 are free.

http://www.vaporbeast.com/catalog/product/view/id/505?acc=c4ca4238a0b923820dcc509a6f75849b

Update: USPS first class shipping is $2.68 bringing total to $19.96. By the way all colors available at this time.

Thanks! Could you tell me if the top cap is removable on the mini?

 

[Thayamax]

Mine isn't, but I've had it for a long time. It could be different now.

 

[IMRs]

I just got off the phone with VaporBeast (one of the only vendors that actually answers when you call) and they said that the top cap has threads.

 

[Angel Eyes]

Sigelei Zmax V2, V3 and V5 Telescopic power switch fix!!


This repair is applicable to power switch problems on Sigelei Zmax V2, V3 and perhaps V5

I have a V3, which after this zero cost fix is working like brand new!

After studying the problem, I have determined that the reason the switch fails to actuate, is that the battery pressure is pushing it out of alignment (actually pushing the entire circuit board) and the clear pushbutton is no longer able to actuate the switch.. The key to this fix is the circuit board has to be kept from being able to slide further into the top when the unit is tightened up with the telescopic portion..

First you need to remove the top cap by putting the Sigelei into a small vise and wiggling it - be patient, the top cap is fairly difficult to remove!

To fix the actual issue, what I did was take some white tissue paper (like you wrap gifts with) and folded it in the the thickest square I could fit into the top cap with a slight amount coming out to make a shim with slight compressibility - it will take a few test fittings, but basically you want as thick as you can get the folded tissue paper square such that the top cap can still be press fit back on. I used a large rubber mallet to pound the top cap back on after lubricating the fitted press fit portion to make getting the top back off easier next time.

When inserting the board back into the Sigelei, you must ensure that the battery contact at the end of the circuit board is aligned into the center of the insulation grommet halfway down, as the circuit board battery contact must be able to contact the top battery post. This centering hole also aligns the board laterally.

The tissue paper is somewhat slightly compressible, even when folded into a tight square like this - This is important to have this compressibility in order to prevent fracturing the circuit board by using a shim material that is too hard. Remember to continually recheck the visual alignment of the black switch as viewed through the clear pushbutton, you can see when it is dead center. then you are ready to seal it up.

Now celebrate your Sigelei working like new with some awesome juice. (I like WTA, it will really ring your bell!)

 

[BackDoc]

Man , when you think about it .....getting a sigelei VV,VW for under 20$ , when not too long ago a 650 ego kit ran well over that ....it's a good time for us vapers that can hang back a bit behind the latest and greatest . We benefit greatly in being satisfied with a great vaping experience from a antiquated device as some would say .,,,,,,,I'm even enjoying some car to tanks lately and have put down my kangers for a bit

 

[fairmana]

Sigelei Zmax V2, V3 and V5 Telescopic power switch fix!!


This repair is applicable to power switch problems on Sigelei Zmax V2, V3 and perhaps V5

I have a V3, which after this zero cost fix is working like brand new!

After studying the problem, I have determined that the reason the switch fails to actuate, is that the battery pressure is pushing it out of alignment (actually pushing the entire circuit board) and the clear pushbutton is no longer able to actuate the switch.. The key to this fix is the circuit board has to be kept from being able to slide further into the top when the unit is tightened up with the telescopic portion..

First you need to remove the top cap by putting the Sigelei into a small vise and wiggling it - be patient, the top cap is fairly difficult to remove!

To fix the actual issue, what I did was take some white tissue paper (like you wrap gifts with) and folded it in the the thickest square I could fit into the top cap with a slight amount coming out to make a shim with slight compressibility - it will take a few test fittings, but basically you want as thick as you can get the folded tissue paper square such that the top cap can still be press fit back on. I used a large rubber mallet to pound the top cap back on after lubricating the fitted press fit portion to make getting the top back off easier next time.

When inserting the board back into the Sigelei, you must ensure that the battery contact at the end of the circuit board is aligned into the center of the insulation grommet halfway down, as the circuit board battery contact must be able to contact the top battery post. This centering hole also aligns the board laterally.

The tissue paper is somewhat slightly compressible, even when folded into a tight square like this - This is important to have this compressibility in order to prevent fracturing the circuit board by using a shim material that is too hard. Remember to continually recheck the visual alignment of the black switch as viewed through the clear pushbutton, you can see when it is dead center. then you are ready to seal it up.

Now celebrate your Sigelei working like new with some awesome juice. (I like WTA, it will really ring your bell!)

Welcome to the forum Angel Eyes, and thanks for taking the time to share what you did to fix your V3 with us. The "board shift" issue is a well known problem with the ZMax series of APV's and something we've addressed here in this thread quite a bit. We have a few repair write-ups that include photos as well as a YouTube video that includes how to fix this problem (as well as how to replace the button if it starts to misfire).

Since we don't have our own forum sub-category, we can't "sticky post" our write-ups and tutorials which is unfortunate. That makes it difficult for anyone unfamiliar with this thread to realize that they exist or even to find them within this massive thread without doing a keyword search. You'd probably find posts that are relevant to this issue if you do a thread search using the keyword "spacer".

I personally prefer using a hard plastic spacer since it won't compress (2mm thick is just right). I put together a writeup about a year ago that uses a horseshoe shaped spacer that fits snugly under the top cap (no glue) and won't crush the wires.

I'm happy to hear your fix is working well for you, and again, welcome to the thread.

 

[VapieDan]

I just got off the phone with VaporBeast (one of the only vendors that actually answers when you call) and they said that the top cap has threads.

I just received mine and it is removable. I fear the sale has ended

 

[IMRs]

I just received mine and it is removable. I fear the sale has ended

I believe it went up just a few dollars in which is still an outstanding price. They sold 100 and put another 50 out yesterday for people that missed the sale I had to pass this time around because I had to reload my cabinet with new Juice this week and besides, I already have 3 Zmax tele's, although it would have been nice to have just one more.

 

[yzer]

Sigelei Zmax V2, V3 and V5 Telescopic power switch fix!!


This repair is applicable to power switch problems on Sigelei Zmax V2, V3 and perhaps V5

I have a V3, which after this zero cost fix is working like brand new!

After studying the problem, I have determined that the reason the switch fails to actuate, is that the battery pressure is pushing it out of alignment (actually pushing the entire circuit board) and the clear pushbutton is no longer able to actuate the switch.. The key to this fix is the circuit board has to be kept from being able to slide further into the top when the unit is tightened up with the telescopic portion..

First you need to remove the top cap by putting the Sigelei into a small vise and wiggling it - be patient, the top cap is fairly difficult to remove!

To fix the actual issue, what I did was take some white tissue paper (like you wrap gifts with) and folded it in the the thickest square I could fit into the top cap with a slight amount coming out to make a shim with slight compressibility - it will take a few test fittings, but basically you want as thick as you can get the folded tissue paper square such that the top cap can still be press fit back on. I used a large rubber mallet to pound the top cap back on after lubricating the fitted press fit portion to make getting the top back off easier next time.

When inserting the board back into the Sigelei, you must ensure that the battery contact at the end of the circuit board is aligned into the center of the insulation grommet halfway down, as the circuit board battery contact must be able to contact the top battery post. This centering hole also aligns the board laterally.

The tissue paper is somewhat slightly compressible, even when folded into a tight square like this - This is important to have this compressibility in order to prevent fracturing the circuit board by using a shim material that is too hard. Remember to continually recheck the visual alignment of the black switch as viewed through the clear pushbutton, you can see when it is dead center. then you are ready to seal it up.

Now celebrate your Sigelei working like new with some awesome juice. (I like WTA, it will really ring your bell!)

Congratulations on a successful repair job! There is nothing quite as rewarding as repairing a Sigelei, especially when repairs can be pretty simple.

I posted these and other close-ups of Sigelei V5 "innards" here last fall while doing a switch replacement.

Sigelei V5 disassembly

The circuit boards are held in place in the battery tube by glue at two locations. A glob of hot glue holds the boards in place inside the black half-round mount. What looks like super glue is used to glue the half-round mounting to the inside of the battery tube. If either or both of these Sigelei glue joins fail the circuit board and switch can move out of place causing misfire issues from misalignment of the switch and firing button. Insertion of a spacer can eliminate this misalignment. So can repositioning the half round mount and the board with new glue.

Misalignment of the boards and button can happen if too little glue is used during assembly, by overtightening the battery tube, or both.

 

[Angel Eyes]

The circuit boards are held in place in the battery tube by glue at two locations. A glob of hot glue holds the boards in place inside the black half-round mount. What looks like super glue is used to glue the half-round mounting to the inside of the battery tube. If either or both of these Sigelei glue joins fail the circuit board and switch can move out of place causing misfire issues from misalignment of the switch and firing button. Insertion of a spacer can eliminate this misalignment. So can repositioning the half round mount and the board with new glue.

Misalignment of the boards and button can happen if too little glue is used during assembly, by overtightening the battery tube, or both.

what I like about the shim of folded tissue paper repair method is that there is no way it can fail, whereas glue or other adhesive methods can eventually break loose again from repeated tightening and the ongoing battery pressure against the board. - I like repairing this sucker once only! - lol

 

[yzer]

A good glue job seems to last long enough for me. I had to break the glue bond between the V5 tube and and the half round mount in order to replace the switch. It took quite a lot of force to break it loose. The hot glue never broke loose, even during the repair. The super glue used for reassembly is still holding fine five months later.

Like the V5, the glue joins on my two V3s never failed. One has been used off and on for over two years, the other for over one year.

 

[fairmana]

It's funny how the circuit board breaking loose seems to be hit or miss. Some people never seem to develop the problem.

Excessive tightening of the tube can obviously cause this, but it may also have something to do with the quality and/or the quantity of the glue used during assembly. It happened to all 3 of my ZMax's, and also happened soon after purchasing my 2nd V3 as well as my current V5. The V5 was used in my video, and I demonstrated how the support was rotating in the tube. I never overtightened that tube beyond the battery spring being halfway compressed and it still occurred.

I've noticed that in almost every case (during several different repairs) that glue is only applied to the support in an area about the size of a dime on the end closest to the 510 connector. A little more glue over a larger area might have eliminated the problem.

Now that all 3 of my ZMax's have spacers/shims, I don't need to worry about it anymore. I can 'tweak' my tubes a little tighter if I ever feel the need and not worry about the circuit board going anywhere. Also, since I like to make the circuit board 'free float' in the slots of the support, there is no longer any force applied to the support. All the force is applied to the spacer and top cap, so the support can't break loose again. I show how to do that in my video by removing the 'stops' in the slots the circuit board rests in.

In several cases, I've seen how these 'stops' can sometimes break away if the glue was strong enough to hold the support in place but the plastic support itself couldn't handle the battery pressure. Completely removing the 'stops' allows the circuit board to slide forward freely in it's slots and rest firmly against the 2mm spacer/shim that you install. The 2mm spacer/shim ensures the switch on the circuit board remains aligned properly with the outer button.