Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group

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White_rabbitt

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Just got my new v3 from Desert Vapes yesterday. It didn't have the metal fire pin.

Awww...sorry to hear that! I wonder if they just have some older ones in stock or if Sig is making different versions?
Didn't you already have 1 or more zmax's? Can you get your money back from that vendor and try a different one?

I have to report that my v3 is still working great and the metal fire pin seems pretty solid! No issues yet!
 

fairmana

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I admit the metal button looks pretty decent. However I have to say that I've grown used to the clear one and not having a metal one is not an issue for me.

Something else to consider is that the clear button lets you see how well you're lined up with the internal button on the circuit board. You'd have to rely completely on the screen to determine if your board has shifted which is not as easy to do (unless it's a significant shift).

At the risk of sounding excessively suspicious, I have to wonder if sigelei's marketing people introduced the metal button so that minor shifting of the internals isn't as easily noticed if the button still functions (and therefore reduces complaints?). I don't know, I'm probably way off in left field. :oops:

At any rate, I'm still hoping sigelei will add more support for the circuit card in future models which will put the problem to rest permanently.
 

lulu836

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Just got my new v3 from Desert Vapes yesterday. It didn't have the metal fire pin.

Have you looked @ the software version? Maybe you could call or send them an email and inquire about the absence of the metal button. I'm curious now even thoughI haven't ordered another one.

I know the software version makes no difference whatsoever in the appearance of the mod I'm just wondering.
 

White_rabbitt

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I admit the metal button looks pretty decent. However I have to say that I've grown used to the clear one and not having a metal one is not an issue for me.

Something else to consider is that the clear button lets you see how well you're lined up with the internal button on the circuit board. You'd have to rely completely on the screen to determine if your board has shifted which is not as easy to do (unless it's a significant shift).

At the risk of sounding excessively suspicious, I have to wonder if Sigelei's marketing people introduced the metal button so that minor shifting of the internals isn't as easily noticed if the button still functions (and therefore reduces complaints?). I don't know, I'm probably way off in left field. :oops:

At any rate, I'm still hoping Sigelei will add more support for the circuit card in future models which will put the problem to rest permanently.

Yeah, the metal button probably doesn't perform any better/worse...but I do like the look!
And lol you could be right about Sigelei doing that on purpose but I have a feeling it's more having to do w/ customer feedback.

I haven't taken mine apart (no idea even how to nor do I want to, if can be avoided) so I don't know if possibly they also added more support for the circuit board in this production run as well or not. Guess I'll just be crossing my fingers and praying!
 

yzer

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The new switch buttons are interesting. It could be be that Sigelei is test marketing different buttons. I wouldn't be surprised if someone gets a batch with lighted buttons.

The plastic buttons have been issue-free. I never saw a report of a failed button on these Sigeleis. Failed switches, yes, failed buttons, no. Believe me, several manufacturers have problems to this day with plastic buttons that fall out of the rig.

I wouldn't hesitate a second about buying a Sigelei V3 or V5 with the tinted plastic button. I don't think it looks bad at all. It's a very good plastic resembling Lexan and doesn't show any wear after nine months of use.

We have seen two metal buttons on this thread so far. One looks like the same button found on the new Smok Zmax while the other is more generic plain metal button. Maybe Sigelei is shopping button sources.
 

olefolks

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Sorry, I was just making a statement about not getting the metal button. I agree with Jeremy and fairmana. I prefer the plastic button for the reason Fairmana stated. It is a good indicator with respect to the chip possibly moving. Just saying. The software checks out. Thank you Desert Vapes.
 

olefolks

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Yeah, the metal button probably doesn't perform any better/worse...but I do like the look!
And lol you could be right about Sigelei doing that on purpose but I have a feeling it's more having to do w/ customer feedback.

I haven't taken mine apart (no idea even how to nor do I want to, if can be avoided) so I don't know if possibly they also added more support for the circuit board in this production run as well or not. Guess I'll just be crossing my fingers and praying!

White, if you do have to take it apart, all you need is this thread. Thank yzer, fairmana and Jeremy for all of their contributions.
 

JeremyR

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Yeah, definitely not impressed with the kit Sigelei batteries.. or even the extra eFest I bought. Seems like the batteries have been running down quicker lately.. Or maybe it's because I'm vaping more with my better juices now :D


I think the "quick-charge" charger (which came with the kit), as you mentioned, might also be part of the problem.


Getting time to upgrade these 2 components, willing to pay a few bucks more for long-lasting quality...

What are you comparing to gato? Yeah kit batteries are protected garbage essential only meant to get you started right away. What size efest? ... What ohms are you running?. This directly correlates to battery life with any battery. I'm guessing below 2.3? Try 2.5 or higher, 3+ ohms at 6 volts/ 15w can last me all day 16+ hrs with efest 18650 2000 mah. And still not hit cut off. 1.8 ohm only 8 hrs max with considerable drop off at 15w.

You can look at the high grade panisonics, or other hybrids. I head lg has a rocking new bat but I think it's more for subohm. Just make sure it has a 10 amp rating.
 

White_rabbitt

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White, if you do have to take it apart, all you need is this thread. Thank yzer, fairmana and Jeremy for all of their contributions.

Good point! and yeah, it is really good to know that if I have to take it apart, that all the info I need is right here. I really do appreciate their efforts as well as everyone else here. Like I said before, this thread is way better than any manual!

Just curious, is this basically the "official" Zmax thread/forum or is there a specific Zmax sub-forum in the APV discussion forum? To be honest, I haven't really left here since I received my v3! :)
 

yzer

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The basic Zmax electronics are used by both Smok and Sigelei and so is the name Zmax. The difference between Sigelie and Smok is like night and day in terms of build quality, menu, features, etc. They are two different companies.

The Zmax thread in the model specific APV forum is for Smok Zmax but a few Sigelei Zmax posts show up there anyway.

Maybe it's time to start a new sub-forum for Sigelei including the Zmax and mechanical mods. I can look into that. It would allow us to use features like stickies. There are a number of threads by several posters that could be good stickies. Stickies need to be watched carefully, however. They often become outdated as models change and evolve.

This thread started as a thread about one Sigelei model: the Zmax Telescopic V3 Flat Head. It grew to include all other Sigelei Zmax Telescopics including the V5. I wouldn't recommend moving this thread to another forum as it has become very well established here but there is no need to lose valuable posts that can be saved in a new forum.
 

White_rabbitt

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The basic Zmax electronics are used by both Smok and Sigelei and so is the name Zmax. The difference between Sigelie and Smok is like night and day in terms of build quality, menu, features, etc. They are two different companies.

The Zmax thread in the model specific APV forum is for Smok Zmax but a few Sigelei Zmax posts show up there anyway.

Maybe it's time to start a new sub-forum for Sigelei including the Zmax and mechanical mods. I can look into that. It would allow us to use features like stickies. There are a number of threads by several posters that could be good stickies. Stickies need to be watched carefully, however. They often become outdated as models change and evolve.

This thread started as a thread about one Sigelei model: the Zmax Telescopic V3 Flat Head. It grew to include all other Sigelei Zmax Telescopics including the V5. I wouldn't recommend moving this thread to another forum as it has become very well established here but there is no need to lose valuable posts that can be saved in a new forum.

Well then I am really glad I found this one then! :)
 

Gato del Jugo

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What are you comparing to gato? Yeah kit batteries are protected garbage essential only meant to get you started right away. What size efest? ... What ohms are you running?. This directly correlates to battery life with any battery. I'm guessing below 2.3? Try 2.5 or higher, 3+ ohms at 6 volts/ 15w can last me all day 16+ hrs with efest 18650 2000 mah. And still not hit cut off. 1.8 ohm only 8 hrs max with considerable drop off at 15w.

You can look at the high grade panisonics, or other hybrids. I head lg has a rocking new bat but I think it's more for subohm. Just make sure it has a 10 amp rating.

Thanks, probably will go with Panasonic..


Shortly after I got the Sig, I switched to 2.0-ohm dual-coil iClears.. Was using something else (single-coil 2.4-ohm) for a short time with the new batteries

I only do about 6 - 6.5 watts, as I like the cooler vape.. This is only putting me at about 3.4 volts


My IMR 490 eFest is listed at 1100 mAh..
The ICR Sig 350 is listed 900 mAh, and the 650 at 2200 mAh

I use the 1-amp charger from Varitube's kit
 

Gato del Jugo

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And, it happened to me, too...


Not sure when, probably in the past few days.. just noticed it now...

But the black interior button contact shifted over closer to the screen & 510 connection

Can see it through the clear plastic button


Not affecting performance (yet?).. But I'd prefer not to have to take it apart someday if I can help it -- especially without a back-up mod


Grrr... :mad:
 

Gato del Jugo

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Just keep an eye on it, Gato. You have a 90-day warranty so you have it made. Plenty of time to see if a problem develops. When I look into the button on my new V3 the black dot is still centered. Have you been running the spring at 1/2 compression?

As far as I can tell, yeah, 1/2 compression..

The black dot part shifted over, exposing about 1/4 to 1/3 of the silver plate behind it

Still firing fine, with the same clicky sound.. the display hasn't budged a smidge since it had moved 1mm a couple weeks ago


For those of you who have taken it apart, can this thing keep shifting over time? I would gather that at a certain point, it would .... up against something on the opposite side & finally stop, no?

I'm thinking they just cheaped out on some of the internals, even with the latest version that I have (aside from the one with the new metal button, which I find interesting -- Sig hiding the shifting issue?)...

Which is a shame, because otherwise this thing is pretty nice for its price


Looks like that back-up purchase will be coming a little sooner than I thought, LOL.. At this point, pretty hesitant in getting a 2nd Sig because of this shifting issue

If anybody wants to throw out a suggestion for a comparable one, please feel free...
 

yzer

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1/2 spring compression is important. That's why I posted this and linked it many times.

Sigelei Zmax Telescopic battery tube adjustment

I posted it in hopes that the users here could avoid board slippage by not over-tightening the tube. JeremeyR showed that the internals can shift even on the newer Sigelei V3s with improved half-round mount if overtightened. He also showed a simple and inexpensive modification that Sigelei could use to avoid this problem.

So, if the Sigeleis are showing internal slippage with 1/2 compressed springs that's bad news. I can only watch this issue develop here because my nine-month old and two month old Sigeleis have never been overtightened and both have centered switches.
 

JeremyR

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Only thing better is a provari IMO, or just get a 40.00 mech.

In my photos I show how it bottoms out on the negative wire. And its sounds like where your at now gato. The issue is it will also start to tilt up at the top side. Increasing misfires. Misfires damage the switch overtime, IMO, as fairmainias photos show. Regular Misfires is when I would do something about it!

Its not difficult to work on guys. If you can build an rba you can do it. I found it surprisingly simple!!
 
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JeremyR

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Hey yzer., you seem to have very good luck. We need to direct sigelei r&.d to this thread and the 1cent fix. Dropping it especially on the head can easily dislodge it, by the battery getting shocked into the positive pin.

One preventative fix I have seen is .. When its new put epoxy around the posi pin in the black disc and also around black disc to body. The disc slides right out the top it's sitting on a ledge. Just don't get any On the top contact part of the pin.

This is the only preventative mod you can do to it without taking apart, but again it's pretty easy. :$
 
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