Sigelei Zmax V3 and V5 Telescopic: User's Group
- Thread starter yzer
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Guys! I don't know why I hadn't done this a year ago..
You don't need the spring!
Makes it much shorter *especially in stacked mode.
Also I think you get a much better feel of how tight it is.. Just know your tightness and don't crank down on it too hard.
You don't need the spring!
Makes it much shorter *especially in stacked mode.
Also I think you get a much better feel of how tight it is.. Just know your tightness and don't crank down on it too hard.
This doesn't work at all with my Efest red 18500 flat tops. Insulation wrapping (shrink tubing) at the negative end of the battery prevents physical contact between the inside of the battery cap and the negative battery terminal. The other problem I might see with going "springless" is poor battery contact resulting from turning the battery tube inadvertently during a day's worth of pocket carry.
Last edited:
Oh bummer..
It works on mine... There's a few thing I had done previously that probably make it work well for me.. Sounds like the most important is I ran a drill bit through the holes in the bottom, just the next size up from original.. This left a small round ridge inside of each hole that contacts the battery. Also/or factory taps of the hole may leave a ridge on some, enabling it to work without modding.
Secondly, I use a small oring to seal the top of the tube threads. When my length is set I slide the oring into the gap at the threads. It goes all the way in so its invisible. This snugs the tube up tight so there is no side to side play and it doesn't turn easily.
Its the business in Stacked mode, much shorter than 18650 before.
If your looking to reduce length and know how to not overtighten. Its worth it to try.
It works on mine... There's a few thing I had done previously that probably make it work well for me.. Sounds like the most important is I ran a drill bit through the holes in the bottom, just the next size up from original.. This left a small round ridge inside of each hole that contacts the battery. Also/or factory taps of the hole may leave a ridge on some, enabling it to work without modding.
Secondly, I use a small oring to seal the top of the tube threads. When my length is set I slide the oring into the gap at the threads. It goes all the way in so its invisible. This snugs the tube up tight so there is no side to side play and it doesn't turn easily.
Its the business in Stacked mode, much shorter than 18650 before.
If your looking to reduce length and know how to not overtighten. Its worth it to try.
Last edited:
When I got my Vision Slip and saw the video about the volt drop from the spring, I first tried a shiny penny with Lincoln's face up. Worked well if I banged the side of the mod to get the edge of the coin to touch the side of the tube.
My Zmax spring is thin enough that I wouldn't expect much gain.
My Zmax spring is thin enough that I wouldn't expect much gain.
But you are far from complete spring compression. Its quite a difference if it works for you. At least a 1/4" probably close to 3/8 shorter.
I didn't do it for voltage drop just size.
Just something for modders to think of.
I didn't do it for voltage drop just size.
Just something for modders to think of.
Last edited:
You guys do the strangest things. 
I gotta ask - why?
Does it realy save 1/2" or what?
My inquiring mind has to know ...
I gotta ask - why?
Does it realy save 1/2" or what?
My inquiring mind has to know ...
Its super easy to try it. Just pull the spring out. Put the batteries in and see how small it is..Then see if you get contact. Sure you want to be knowledgeable of the device but its not difficult. If your running stacked you'll appreciate it... 3/8" is the difference between being on the last thread on the tube to having two threads or more screwed on.
You may or may not have trouble with the tube comming loose. Depending how much you jostle it around.
If it doesn't make contact then you may need to drill the holes a little bit. Or it could just be different batteries will contact without it.
Doesn't hurt to try, YMMV
You may or may not have trouble with the tube comming loose. Depending how much you jostle it around.
If it doesn't make contact then you may need to drill the holes a little bit. Or it could just be different batteries will contact without it.
Doesn't hurt to try, YMMV
I found the difference was in the batteries. The 18350 are made for stacking so it has an extended base. 18650 left 18350 right. So batteries with the bump out will work with no modification.
Of course this is for experienced users. Its on you if you over tighten and shift the card. Mine has been retained for quite some time so its not an issue. But really I think you feel the tightness better. The only down side I see is possibly dropping it and shifting the card... Not sure if its any different than a tight spring pressure though.
But with the stacked 18350 its clearly shorter than an 18650 with the spring installed.
Of course this is for experienced users. Its on you if you over tighten and shift the card. Mine has been retained for quite some time so its not an issue. But really I think you feel the tightness better. The only down side I see is possibly dropping it and shifting the card... Not sure if its any different than a tight spring pressure though.
But with the stacked 18350 its clearly shorter than an 18650 with the spring installed.
Last edited:
Jeremy, I'm happy to hear I'm not the only one using an o-ring on the upper tube threads. I've found that it not only firms up the tube, but also keeps dust and debris out of the Noalox in the threads (helps eliminate that dreaded "crunchy thread" syndrome). I don't have to change out the Noalox as often and it seems to keep my Zmax working more reliably than before.
Do you happen to know what 'size' or 'part number' o-ring are you using? Mine came out of an 'Assorted O-ring Kit' that I bought several years ago, so I don't have a clue what size it is. It's likely that there are 2 or 3 sizes that are a close enough fit to do the job. I've been meaning to stop by the hardware store to find a good part number and pick up some spares, but it always slips my mind. That info could also come in handy for others on the forum who might be interested in giving it a try. I'll be sure to post back if I find myself near Ace Hardware anytime soon (and if I can remember to do it!).
Last edited:
Yep. As I mentioned yesterday the Efest red flat top 18500 has the lower negative terminal profile. It looks just like the Efest red 18650 in your photo.
I agree its something that should have came with the zmax. The oring I have is just a spare out of an rba set, a clear type one from an old oddy.. Any rta 22-23 mm with thin orings should work. I think the particular one I just stretched a little to slide over. Its worked great for a long time..the noalox.. Don't remember the last time I changed it its been at least 4-5 mo the and its nearly good as new.took all the sideways slop out of the tube too.
The oring is small enough I press it into the gap with a finger nail and its not really visable...I had a pic.. Let me see. Photo bucket, android app, crop, focus...
You see the white oring down in there.. that's where the tube sets with stacked 18350 and spring. With the spring out the tube is almost all the way up to the first line on the body, so its a pretty big difference.
The oring is small enough I press it into the gap with a finger nail and its not really visable...I had a pic.. Let me see. Photo bucket, android app, crop, focus...
You see the white oring down in there.. that's where the tube sets with stacked 18350 and spring. With the spring out the tube is almost all the way up to the first line on the body, so its a pretty big difference.
Last edited:
OK. I'm going to contradict what I said previously about the negative terminal profile of the Efest red 18500. It looks to have a raised profile but it isn't raised sufficiently enough to allow electrical contact with a springless battery cap.
Looking directly at the issue is always better than relying on memory.
All are Efest red V1 flat tops. Here are 18650, 18500 and 18350. The 18650 has the obvious flat profile while the 18500 and 18350 appear to be raised profile.
Placing a straight edge along the negative terminal and using backlighting tells the tale. The 18500 negative terminal sits lower than the insulating material.
The 18350 negative terminal sits higher and makes contact with the straight edge.
Looking directly at the issue is always better than relying on memory.
All are Efest red V1 flat tops. Here are 18650, 18500 and 18350. The 18650 has the obvious flat profile while the 18500 and 18350 appear to be raised profile.
Placing a straight edge along the negative terminal and using backlighting tells the tale. The 18500 negative terminal sits lower than the insulating material.
The 18350 negative terminal sits higher and makes contact with the straight edge.
This mod is high up on my purchase when I have some cash list so keep up the good reviewing work
You may not have to wait long. Here is a heck of a deal on a V5 choice silver or Black.
Sigelei ZMAX TeleScope V5
I wonder if Sigelei would consider placing an updated board in the V3/V5 body?
I agree. The cheaper box mods are far less expensive to manufacture. We will rarely see quality tube mods in the future.
- Status
Similar threads
