Silver Paste, Dielectric grease, Noalox

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acrosstheveil

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State O' Flux

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Anyone use any of these products? Despite constant cleaning I am still finding green corrosion on my copper mod parts. Anyone else have a remedy for this? I am using vinegar and alcohol to clean.

Anyone try silver paste? it is supposed to enhance conductivity. MG Chemicals 8463-7G Silver Conductive Grease, 7 g Syringe, Silver: Industrial Greases: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


any other suggestions?
I use the MG silver grease on contacts that have the potential for tarnish/corrosion, otherwise... clean and dry. With mixed or tarnishable metals, a thin film of silicone grease on the tube/cap threads.

also, can steel wool be used to clean copper threads?

If needed, I prefer to use fine Scotchbrite pads... unlike steel wool - which can leave steel particulates imbedded in soft copper - they don't leave contaminates that can't be removed with a solvent.
 
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Froth

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what would be ideal then to use on contacts and the button?
Ideally, you want nothing(a clean polished surface) but the issue with that is the atmosphere will eventually act on that surface and tarnish/weather/corrode, so what is needed is something that will keep out the outside elements so that the clean metal can remain clean as long as possible. There are a multitude of products out there that will do this effectively, my personal choice would be Nyogel 760G, I posted a link for it on page 1.

Edit: If you read the literature for the product, it specifically states it is non-conductive but is designed for conductive surfaces, this is because it keeps out the elements that are turning your copper green and thus you will need to clean them much less.
 
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Ryedan

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Contrary to what you might think dielectric grease is a nonconductive. It's used in automobiles to prohibit electrical conductivity and specifically - arcing.

Yes, this is true. There are some greases that have conductive particles in them. I don't know that they will improve performance for our use.

What I've found is that dielectric greases like noalox thicken up over time and have to be cleaned up and replaced. If they would improve performance I would accept this and deal with it, but I have not seen that either. IMO as long as we are using a petroleum grease based product, it's not going to be good.
 
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Poisontail

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Only if there are no magnetics used in the mod. Otherwise, you'll never get the steel dust off.

Idk how true that is I'm an electrician by trade and I keep my jd tech stingray in my placket all day and I've never got anything sticking to my magnetic switch I noalox all my mods every threaded part no problems
 

SLIPPY_EEL

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I have noticed that putting Noalox on the Negative contact in a Mech tube that has a Magnet switch is a real bad idea as the suction from the noalox doesnt always allow release of the battery, i would also think that any liquid substance that stays wet and is on the -Neg contact will have this effect.

I've been running all my mech's without anything on the contacts or threads for a while now and have noticed that not only do they hit harder but they hit harder for longer, even the battery terminal's need less cleaning.

If i feel that i'm losing performance i give the batteries and mech's contact's a clean with 1000+ grit paper and if the threads look a bit tarnished i clean them with HG steel polish which cleans and protects all in one swoop without having to wash the mod
 

acrosstheveil

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well i soaked it in vingear for an hours and rinsed it off with water then isopropyl alcohol so it would dry quick. I used a metal finishing pad on the contacts and applied a TINY amount of noalox to the contact points and threads. I did a very light coating, rubbed it in, then wiped off all the excess I could. The mod hits harder then when I first got it and my button does not stick or catch anymore. Noalox works great for me just use VERY sparingly. Like rub it in then wipe it all off so you can't even see it.
 

suspectK

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What you want is Nyogel 760G

NyoGel 760G 50 gram tube

So you would prefer this over silver grease with let's say...a male 4nine- bronze button, SS body? I can't imagine that this will be a good fix.. I'm sure it would mimic the performance if I let the contacts galvanize a bit, but I'm looking to get the maximum potential out of this mod. She's using it at the moment, and I've seen her bust out the white vinegar a couple of times since I let her start using it a few weeks ago..so I'd rather she didn't have to do that..

In this instance, would you still apply this grease, instead of a conductive grease?

I'm also thinking the silver grease would be good to have for the 4nine, cuz I'm sure she's ground/filed the button down already, trying to get it to fire before she was taught about how two different alloys react when they're used as electrical contact points. Edit-remove this= between each other.
 
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Froth

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So you would prefer this over silver grease with let's say...a male 4nine- bronze button, SS body? I can't imagine that this will be a good fix.. I'm sure it would mimic the performance if I let the contacts galvanize a bit, but I'm looking to get the maximum potential out of this mod. She's using it at the moment, and I've seen her bust out the white vinegar a couple of times since I let her start using it a few weeks ago..so I'd rather she didn't have to do that..

In this instance, would you still apply this grease, instead of a conductive grease?

I'm also thinking the silver grease would be good to have for the 4nine, cuz I'm sure she's ground/filed the button down already, trying to get it to fire before she was taught about how two different alloys react when they're used as electrical contact points between each other.
Yes, I would still use Nyogel over a silver conductive paste personally. No amount of any gel or paste is going to make the base metals more conductive than they already are, the issue with the 4nine is the very small contact area the button has to fire in, there is very little surface area that touches the sidewall of the tube/button when the 4nine is fired to complete the circuit. There is a reason it was redesigned into the 4nine Prime which has a much better button. Even a good friend of mine who has an authentic copper 4nine has button issues with it unless he cleans it regularly. To be completely honest it's just not the best button design and when in your case you have two much less conductive metals than copper it's bound to have problems completing the circuit effectively, I doubt silver paste will make any drastic difference.

Edit: Forgot to mention, don't get silver paste on your hands or you'll see it everywhere for the rest of the day, the stuff spreads like wildfire and is pretty annoying to get completely off your skin, also stains clothes and upholstery. If you've ever gotten anti-seize on your hands that's kind of what silver paste is like.
 
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