SM V3 Semovar VS Provari

[jhelliwell]

Did you manage to make progress? I have been meaning to do a lot of things. Caig De-Oxit, carbon conductive grease, replace the bottom positive plate with copper, better screws. Lots of room for improvement. But, round-to-its have been in short supply, and I am always near a fistful of charged batteries.

I've managed to get it to 0.2V of drop, which wasn't bad, but that only lasted a week, it's currently 0.3V

Having had the thing in bits and realising what is actually bridging the two halves of the Sticker electrically,the flow goes through a serious number of components. It's all SS, and brass or as you said copper would have been a better choice. The battery contact sitting on top of a spring, ok it's a serious spring, and then insulators meaning the current has to flow through those two tiny little screws, and that great big SS plate bridging the two sides etc. It's well engineered but it seems everyone I speak to that has one has huge voltage drop.

I managed to get it to 0.1V drop one time, but that was a serious clean, giving the jar of Sticker components a bath in isopropyl alcohol for 24 hours, and a lively scrub. One week later and it was back to 0.5V drop. It is most annoying

 

[VapinBill]

There's an exclusive Sticker club? Cool, I'm in

That's an AGR+ cartotank perched on top of the Semovar.
(If you're curious that's a Dome perched atop the Nemmy) complete with comedy drip tip

Real nice looking setup.

 

[VapinBill]

Very thoughtful words. If you can understand that, you can always say "nihil perditi" - nothing is lost, and always move on the same as before. A hard life teaches that, and a few come to understand the teacher.

In other news, I still ain't seein' no flappage. On the positive side, I see crash bar, highway pegs, floor boards (a delight on long rides), heel-n-toe shifter. On the down side, I see sparkling chrome, the darn thing is clean, and you have speakers. What good are stereo speakers when you are marching up a steep incline at 25 mph in top gear. I miss that sound.

And you still did not inform if you vape and ride at the same time.

Some questions are best unanswered. What matters to some does not to others. Justification is not relevant. Your ego will not be fed today, my friend. You will go unanswered.

 

[ethermion]

Some questions are best unanswered. What matters to some doesn't does not to others. Justification is not relevant. Your ego will not be fed today, my friend. You will go unanswered.

My Sticker Brother, your wise words nourish me. I want for nothing. May the Sticker of Life always bring you low voltage drops under load, and safe riding.

 

[ethermion]

I've managed to get it to 0.2V of drop, which wasn't bad, but that only lasted a week, it's currently 0.3V

Having had the thing in bits and realising what is actually bridging the two halves of the Sticker electrically,the flow goes through a serious number of components. It's all SS, and brass or as you said copper would have been a better choice. The battery contact sitting on top of a spring, ok it's a serious spring, and then insulators meaning the current has to flow through those two tiny little screws, and that great big SS plate bridging the two sides etc. It's well engineered but it seems everyone I speak to that has one has huge voltage drop.

I managed to get it to 0.1V drop one time, but that was a serious clean, giving the jar of Sticker components a bath in isopropyl alcohol for 24 hours, and a lively scrub. One week later and it was back to 0.5V drop. It is most annoying

Waaay too many components. Those two tiny screws do not mount flush to that plate either. A good mechanical engineer perhaps, but definitely not a EE.

I am beginning to think I know what is holding up the mechanical button and kicker kit.

 

[ZeroOhm]

Haven't stopped by for a while a been busy with life and all.

The sticker is a little over engineered and too true it wasn't optimally designed for the least amount of voltage drop. After working the connections with very very fine wet'n'dry P2500 and IPA my VD was .1v I can live with this it can vary as the battery discharges but it's .2v @ 3.7v. This maybe worth a try as a fix if the sticker parts are all seated and true.

My sticker alignment is slightly out by a couple of mm but i'll get round to fixing this at some point.

Any of you guys got any battery vape time stats for 650s as this is all I use on the sticker. NCR18650b ? I got a few Sony VTC5s and didn't manage to hit the Semos battery cutoff after 50 mins @ 1.5ohms and 9w. How long do you get from a NCR 3400mhA?

 

[Pamailman]

I am beginning to think I know what is holding up the mechanical button and kicker kit.

I think you can get it from Russia now.
Комплектующие для SMv2 ― SvoёMesto
Would be item D1

 

[ethermion]

No, that is for the Semovar V2. The Nivel mod is V3.

 

[Pamailman]

No, that is for the Semovar V2. The Nivel mod is V3.

I was getting my hopes up. I just picked up an Origen v1 dripper and the finish matches the Semo,s brushed finish perfectly. Won't fire though because the guy I got it off of put a .25 ohm build in for me.

 

[ethermion]

Hi all
Haven't stopped by for a while a been busy with life and all.

The sticker is a little over engineered and too true it wasn't optimally designed for the least amount of voltage drop. After working the connections with very very fine wet'n'dry P2500 and IPA my VD was .1v I can live with this it can vary as the battery discharges but it's .2v @ 3.7v. This maybe worth a try as a fix if the sticker parts are all seated and true.

My sticker alignment is slightly out by a couple of mm but i'll get round to fixing this at some point.

Any of you guys got any battery vape time stats for 650s as this is all I use on the sticker. NCR18650b ? I got a few Sony VTC5s and didn't manage to hit the Semos battery cutoff after 50 mins @ 1.5ohms and 9w. How long do you get from a NCR 3400mhA?

View attachment 324603

Battery report:
Sticker mode, Panasonic NCR18650B, maybe 5 months old, but in rotation with 4 others. 10 Watts the whole time. 25 minutes on the vape timer. Back in the charger, which reports 3.77 volts. 0.5 volt drops the whole time (give or take 0.4 - 0.6, must be rounding errors). About average for me. And not quite a full day.

You used P2500 on the threads? What is IPA?

 

[jhelliwell]

IPA is our friendly cleaner, Isopropyl Alcohol. Man I don't think I would ever take sandpaper to my threads, no matter how fine the grade is.

 

[Pamailman]

IPA is our friendly cleaner, Isopropyl Alcohol. Man I don't think I would ever take sandpaper to my threads, no matter how fine the grade is.

Toothpaste is suppose to work really well on threads.

 

[ethermion]

IPA, huh. Gonna have to get me some of that. I got motivated, and decided to do another clean with contact cleaner. Didn't notice the contact cleaner said not safe for Lexan. Cracked the snot out of my yellow display window in one second flat. Decided to do some touch-up work with a q-tip. Left cotton doo-dads all over the threads. Decided to get serious. Paid the ......, told her we would finish up later. Put the lid back on the 'shine. Got everything re-assembled. 0.7V drop. Grr.

I've got copper pipe and romex aplenty in the basement. My mind is wandering. I must make the Sticker suffer.

But for now, back to work writing cyber-security software. Gotta pay for this habit somehow.

 

[ZeroOhm]

IPA is our friendly cleaner, Isopropyl Alcohol. Man I don't think I would ever take sandpaper to my threads, no matter how fine the grade is.

Cheers man hahaha yes i do sandpaper threads especially with clones!

 

[Phone Guy]

IPA, huh. Gonna have to get me some of that. I got motivated, and decided to do another clean with contact cleaner. Didn't notice the contact cleaner said not safe for Lexan. Cracked the snot out of my yellow display window in one second flat. Decided to do some touch-up work with a q-tip. Left cotton doo-dads all over the threads. Decided to get serious. Paid the ......, told her we would finish up later. Put the lid back on the 'shine. Got everything re-assembled. 0.7V drop. Grr.

I've got copper pipe and romex aplenty in the basement. My mind is wandering. I must make the Sticker suffer.

But for now, back to work writing cyber-security software. Gotta pay for this habit somehow.

Guys I feel bad for all of you who bought the sticker (aka: the $70 headache [or whatever they cost]) seems like they are more of a tinkering project than a usable item.

@etherminion: YOU BROKE THE YELLOW!? OH MAN...........................

 

[Ref Minor]

Guys I feel bad for all of you who bought the sticker (aka: the $70 headache [or whatever they cost]) seems like they are more of a tinkering project than a usable item.

@etherminion: YOU BROKE THE YELLOW!? OH MAN...........................

So long as you are ok with changing batteries at an increased rate the sticker is a lovely form factor and works without tinkering. Having said that I have managed to break a screw after over tightening the battery tube and carelessly undoing it.

Edit: after taking the sticker apart the screw was not broken, it was a separate screw I had managed to unscrew.

 

[ZeroOhm]

Battery report:
Sticker mode, Panasonic NCR18650B, maybe 5 months old, but in rotation with 4 others. 10 Watts the whole time. 25 minutes on the vape timer. Back in the charger, which reports 3.77 volts. 0.5 volt drops the whole time (give or take 0.4 - 0.6, must be rounding errors). About average for me. And not quite a full day.

You used P2500 on the threads? What is IPA?

Meant to reply but I rarely get a chance to hit a keyboard these days, cheers for posting on the battery stats i feel your pain on the that VD with your sticker. Shame I don't live closer and could help you out mine was well used when I bought it I suggested to jhelliwell some working the connections with very very fine wet'n'dry sandpaper and then removing the residue with IPA.

Your are right about the 2 bottom plate screws and think these along with the steel connections appear to be the weak link, working the plate and replacing the screws with brass may help I don't see I can make any improvement for me @ .1v VD which is what the Semo reads with or without the sticker, I have noticed with various (used and older) batteries AW and Samsung 650's that the negative end may need cleaning I even sanded down a couple as an experiment to see if this made a difference with VD which it did on a couple. P2500 is the finest grade sand paper I have and originally I cleaned everything with a fibre glass bristle contact cleaner but this dumped fibres and didn't help at all even though visually it looked a little brighter.

The use of IPA which is something like 99.8% pure leaves minimal residue from the solution and removes anything left by working the connections and carbide residue from the sandpaper.

Not sure if handling the metal sticker parts has transferred any grease from your hands I really don't know your sticker was new from SM.

Do you have a DVM / Multimeter that you can check for resistance between points? Minus the resistance of the leads used?

The VTC5s have been amazing they just stay in the zone and 1 hour vaping time as a sticker setup is within reach set to VV and perhaps killing the screen.

 

[ZeroOhm]

So long as you are ok with changing batteries at an increased rate the sticker is a lovely form factor and works without tinkering. Having said that I have managed to break a screw after over tightening the battery tube and carelessly undoing it.

Edit: after taking the sticker apart the screw was not broken, it was a separate screw I had managed to unscrew.

Thats not good which screw did you break do you need one of us to use digital callipers to measure the broken screw so you can replace it?

Edit just re read your post glad you sorted it!

 

[ethermion]

Well, as an alternative to the Sticker, you can get the Bender. It stops the semo from rolling, and ensures constant contact between the drip tip and a dirty surface.

And, an added benefit, your semo will not look like Phone Guy's.



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[ethermion]

Shame I don't live closer and could help you out
Do you have a DVM / Multimeter that you can check for resistance between points? Minus the resistance of the leads used?

A trip across the pond is not that much more expensive than a Sticker. I have buckets of Lagavulin. Do visit. Yummy.

I have a 1/2 dozen Flukes. I rebuild guitar amps for fun. If only I had more time, I could do a good thing for vapekind. But, between being a stud muffin and two girls in college, there are limits to what I can do.