Smjy doggystyle rta - is this right?

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tara81

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can someone please tell me if my coil is screwed on the dogystyle rta base properly? 10 wraps 28 g 1.8 ohm coil 2.5 diameter. It shows 1.99 ohm on the ohm meter and 1.89 ohm on my mod. I might have made too many wraps its hard to count they are so tiny.
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Ive never made coils or used an rta before. I dont know if the wire is around the screw properly or if the coil is too close to the screws. Thanks if you can help!
 
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bwh79

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can someone please tell me if my coil is screwed on the dogystyle rta base properly? 10 wraps 28 g 1.8 ohm coil 2.5 diameter. It shows 1.99 ohm on the ohm meter and 1.89 ohm on my mod. I might have made too many wraps its hard to count they are so tiny.

Is it Kanthal? 1.9-ish ohms sounds about right for 10 wraps of 28g, if it's Kanthal (and that difference of .1 that you found between readings on different devices is not unexpected). I, too, would flip the coil over, though, so that the legs come off the bottom of the coil instead of off the topside. The legs will be shorter, that way, and the coil will heat more efficiently without the power loss in the extra-long legs. It might also allow you to drop the coil down a little closer to the airflow hole.

the doggy is very hard to build on, takes lots of patience, but if you get it right after many tries you will be happy
Maybe it's because I was already used to building my KFL's, but I didn't have any problems with the Doggystyle.
 

tara81

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After about 10 more attempts and 2 hours wasted altogether, does this look right?

Kanthal 28 gauge 9 wraps 1.64 ohms on meter

Can anyone answer my questions:

If the coil legs touch the screw post on the top does it matter?

If the coil touches the screw does it matter?

If the coil legs come out of the screw post will this cause a short circuit or explosion when fired?

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bwh79

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Can anyone answer my questions:

If the coil legs touch the screw post on the top does it matter? No. "Leg length" is measured from the last point of contact. You'll want to make sure it doesn't touch the opposite post, but touching the post it comes off of is not a problem. In fact, the closer that "point of last contact" is to the coil itself, the better.

If the coil touches the screw does it matter? If the coil touches the screw, it will short to that point of the coil. Say it's touching in the middle; current will skip half the coil and jump straight to the middle, whereupon it will travel normally through the other half of the coil and see less resistance since it's bypassing part of the current path. This shouldn't cause an explosion or "violent battery failure" incident, however it might lead to "hot spots" and dry/burnt hits.

If the coil legs come out of the screw post will this cause a short circuit or explosion when fired? If the lead on the "negative" post (connected to the deck/base) sticks out past the post and touches the bell/"chamber," it's no problem. If the bell is electrically connected, it's got a negative charge and that post is negative anyway. If the lead on the "positive" post (insulated from the deck, connected to the center post) sticks out and touches the bell, there might be a short circuit if the bell is also touching the base. The base is electrically connected to the "negative" post; if the base is also touching the bell, and the bell is touching the positive lead, then you have a short circuit from the (negative) base, to the bell, to the (positive) lead, that bypasses the coil. This is bad. It (probably) won't blow up, but it won't work either and so you will still want to avoid this.[/B]
 
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lil_buddy

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Can anyone answer my questions:

If the coil legs touch the screw post on the top does it matter?

If the coil touches the screw does it matter?

If the coil legs come out of the screw post will this cause a short circuit or explosion when fired?

View attachment 750703 View attachment 750705 View attachment 750707

1 & 2) I'm not 100% sure what you mean because the coil leg must touch the screw posts and the screw.
The coil is wedged between the screw head and the screw post. What do you mean by screw post?

3)The coil must not touch the chimney (or another way of saying it - the bell housing that goes over the coil). That will definitely create a short circuit.

If you are using a regulated mod, then it will simply produce an error message (something like 'Atomiser short' or 'Check atomiser') and will not fire if the coil is shorted. Mechanical mods are dangerous if firing a shorted atomiser.
 

tara81

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If the coil legs touch the screw post on the top does it matter? No. "Leg length" is measured from the last point of contact. You'll want to make sure it doesn't touch the opposite post, but touching the post it comes off of is not a problem. In fact, the closer that "point of last contact" is to the coil itself, the better.

If the coil touches the screw does it matter? If the coil touches the screw, it will short to that point of the coil. Say it's touching in the middle; current will skip half the coil and jump straight to the middle, whereupon it will travel normally through the other half of the coil and see less resistance since it's bypassing part of the current path. This shouldn't cause an explosion or "violent battery failure" incident, however it might lead to "hot spots" and dry/burnt hits.

If the coil legs come out of the screw post will this cause a short circuit or explosion when fired? If the lead on the "negative" post (connected to the deck/base) sticks out past the post and touches the bell/"chamber," it's no problem. If the bell is electrically connected, it's got a negative charge and that post is negative anyway. If the lead on the "positive" post (insulated from the deck, connected to the center post) sticks out and touches the bell, there might be a short circuit if the bell is also touching the base. The base is electrically connected to the "negative" post; if the base is also touching the bell, and the bell is touching the positive lead, then you have a short circuit from the (negative) base, to the bell, to the (positive) lead, that bypasses the coil. This is bad. It (probably) won't blow up, but it won't work either and so you will still want to avoid this.[/B]

ThNk you, this is very informative. What is a bell?

So i have no idea how to make this work. I thought this would be easy :( i tried the vandy vape berserker mini rta and my ohm meter keeps saying 0.02 ohms. Its wrong because its supposed to be 0.7 ohms clapton coil, I tightened it as much as i could and even tried the coil that came with it. I feel defeated. If only there was a vape shop near me :( or someone in my area that could show me. So sad.
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bwh79

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ThNk you, this is very informative. What is a bell?
Sometimes also called a chimney, or chamber. It's the part that covers over the coils so they don't get flooded with liquid. On the Doggy, when you unscrew the base from the tank, the bell is the metal part that's still attached inside the tank.
 

Anise

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Don't give up You're further along than I am. I've been using the pre-installed coils and practicing wicking. When I finally get the right type of wire cutters then the hard part begins. I hope I have as much determination as you have .
That second to last Pic looks good.
 

lil_buddy

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ThNk you, this is very informative. What is a bell?

So i have no idea how to make this work. I thought this would be easy :( i tried the vandy vape berserker mini rta and my ohm meter keeps saying 0.02 ohms. Its wrong because its supposed to be 0.7 ohms clapton coil, I tightened it as much as i could and even tried the coil that came with it. I feel defeated. If only there was a vape shop near me :( or someone in my area that could show me. So sad. View attachment 750711 View attachment 750713
Trim the legs. Is the reading the same? Can you test on a regulated mod to make sure there isn't a problem with that ohm meter?
 

stols001

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If it helps at all, I found the doggy style incredibly difficult to build and I actually had to buy a second one to make it work. (The first deck vanished from the box, I think it was possessed.)

For your first coil mount you actually did really well. Honest. And, no, it doesn't matter if the leg touches the bottom of the deck and with the doggy that's pretty hard not to have happen with the way the posts screw down. You just want to trim your legs as short as possible.

Also, as long as your coil is somewhat within range, resistance may vary. Maybe your legs could be trimmed a little more, or they're longer than you calculated based on how the coil is raised up.. Etc. So, no HUGE deal. Check your deck for any stray snips of wire. Etc. If your coil is TOO high (on any RTA) your coil will read okay when you test fire or even wick it. But then read "atomizer short" as you put the cap (the bell of the RTA that encloses the coil). I've had that happen to me with the Ares one time, I just pushed the coil gently down and all was well.

I find velocity style decks the easiest style to build and wick, but everyone just has their own skill set. Etc.

Finally, if you are getting really frustrated, take a break (don't lose the deck! LOL). That is what I did with my doggy but with a lot of effort and experience building other stuff, the second doggy was a breeze.

Good luck,

Anna
 

lil_buddy

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If it helps at all, I found the doggy style incredibly difficult to build and I actually had to buy a second one to make it work. (The first deck vanished from the box, I think it was possessed.)

For your first coil mount you actually did really well. Honest. And, no, it doesn't matter if the leg touches the bottom of the deck and with the doggy that's pretty hard not to have happen with the way the posts screw down. You just want to trim your legs as short as possible.

Also, as long as your coil is somewhat within range, resistance may vary. Maybe your legs could be trimmed a little more, or they're longer than you calculated based on how the coil is raised up.. Etc. So, no HUGE deal. Check your deck for any stray snips of wire. Etc. If your coil is TOO high (on any RTA) your coil will read okay when you test fire or even wick it. But then read "atomizer short" as you put the cap (the bell of the RTA that encloses the coil). I've had that happen to me with the Ares one time, I just pushed the coil gently down and all was well.

I find velocity style decks the easiest style to build and wick, but everyone just has their own skill set. Etc.

Finally, if you are getting really frustrated, take a break (don't lose the deck! LOL). That is what I did with my doggy but with a lot of effort and experience building other stuff, the second doggy was a breeze.

Good luck,

Anna

The last picture she posted was a rainbow Berserker and the build looks perfect to me. Getting a coil into a berserker is pretty easy (wicking not so much).

I am feeling like the problem might be the ohm reader.
 
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tara81

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Yeah I got so frustrated I tried and tried for like 4 hours and gave up lol. Maybe tomorrow I'll try again! So strange the ohm reader doesnt read the berserker mini properly if that is the case. I was too scared to put it in my mod to check , what if I misfire instead of turning it off , as it takes 5 pushes to turn off my target mini. Im so paranoid , probably too paranoid to be doing this, but sadly I only taste like 2 flavors in my nautilis mini tank and I want better flavor sooo badly.
 
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