That Quad is a nifty little device. The 510 drip-pan would probably hold more juice than some tanks! Copper pin is a nice touch too. Copper is soft, but imo still the best material to use for contacts, but I digress...
A bit more research and inspection reveals the leak definitely originates at the rba/chimney o-ring. If I fill below that level and keep the TFV4 bolt-upright it does not leak at all. However it also will not fire if I attach the head to the top-cap assy first, then screw the deck on as suggested in several leak fix vids. The "rca" head to base contact points do not touch when assembled snug enough to stop the leak, so I will root through my o-ring bins as well as loan the spare chimney o-ring to my supplier and see if he can't track down a couple food grade and heat resistant versions in a slightly larger thickness — if available. That problem would be easily dealt with by simply making either the base pin spring loaded, or by making that connection a slip-fit instead of a threaded join.
Blast. It really is an extreme bummer that this thing leaks. It vapes extremely well and is possibly the easiest to build, fill and clean rta I have yet used.
BTW, I disassembled and cleaned my rx yesterday and while I was at it performed the wire upgrades with better screws and ultrasonic-bathed the 510 itself. I was stunned to see how much juice leaked past the 510 "seal" and onto the board itself. Good thing I didn't fire it after the dam burst. If/when the 510 fails Imma gonna cut that thing open and inspect the spring in there. It must be a weak or small/soft spring. I used a some really flexible 14 gauge tinned copper "marine grade" cable (Ancor) and that seems not to impede movement of the pin as much as the stiff, cheap oem wire might. The stiffness of that wire is what I figure may be causing stuck pin issues, but the jury remains out on that. That and the fact that the seal is pretty much useless and also too inflexible. It's more a soft plastic than any kind of seal like material. Cleaning it might be what helped most?
edit: Actually, that base pin in the TFV4 is kinda spring loaded, but the travel is too short to span the gap!
edit x 2: Not spring loaded, but it can be pressed out of the base. Maybe a little magnet-spacer will do the trick? (of course it will not, it's stainless steel you dummy) That will probably mess up the TC function though... Blast!