Smoke-E Mountain Vanilla

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e30ernest

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Looking good:

P1000673.jpg


It's pretty compact. The eVic in the background is in 18500 mode and it's still taller than the Vanilla. Switch is really light and has a good stock throw. You can adjust it though if you need. Some noteworthy features:

- Copper positive and negative contacts.
- Adjustable positive atomizer pin
- Positive batter contact is adjustable (screws in and out). Be careful though, copper is pretty soft so this might strip if mishandled.
- Venting is hidden in the switch.
- Good threading
- flawless finish

I'm loving this mech. :) It's a keeper for sure!
 

ph0kused

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Dispose of that battery in the proper manner immediately, and get at least two good AW IMR 18650 1600 mAh batteries to rotate. I also recommend a Pila IBC charger...


EDIT: I can't believe how irresponsible some vendors are by selling and setting up sub-ohm coil devices with batteries, and cheap chargers to a beginner, which are not suited for that type of vaping... :facepalm:

Don't be fooled by inflated mAh ratings.. The AW IMR 18650 1600 mAh is what you need, and delivers appropriate amperage. If I were you, I would start by learning to build your own coils, know how to check the ohms before you even put the atty on a device, and start out at 1.0 ohms (ideally higher, like 1.2) on the coil. As you get comfortable with what you're doing, you can always go lower.

This sub-ohm craze is going to get someone hurt eventually...



boom-e-cigarette.png

dont be so scared guy.

it's fine, just read up on sub-ohm building, use the proper batteries. And make sure you have a multimeter or some device to tell you exactly what your battery is at, and what your coils are reading out at. After a few good builds there's virtually no risk as long as you're thorough with your process. Hopefully we're all adults here. It's ironic that ex-smokers are scared about heath risks with sub-ohm building. Just get edjumikated on how-to and what not to do. Sometimes people at your local vape shop can be really helpful in this. Don't be frightened by the people on here that say "never build sub-ohm coils because you might explode" Know the risks, get informed, and have fun, and stay healthy.
 

ph0kused

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Another thing I've noticed too...

Most* of the nay-sayers on the whole sub-ohm culture have never tried to build a sub 1.0ohm coil, and have no desire to. I think they really don't have a place to comment on it. As long as you read up, watch some videos, you'll be fine. Start out at 1.0 ohm and work your way down.

I prefer 3 wraps of 28 gauge kanthal, 2 coils, wrapped the same way. Each coil comes out to .8ohms When running duals I'm at .4ohms. You also need the proper airflow too or your device will get hot, dont run stock airholes - drill them out. Or if you have variable airflow, open them up.

I don't like to go beyond that becuase I feel the vapor production is great .4 for myself personally. But have fun, it's your device afterall, and your risk to take.

I'd like to see actually how many people have actually had something literally explode from wrapping coils. I have a feeling the number isn't as big as we all think - the scarier thing to me is Chinese battery chargers that spontaneously combust when plugged in, almost happened to me with a Nitecore i2 today.
 

JmanEspresso

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  • Jul 15, 2013
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    Ive been eyeing one of these lately.. they're pretty sharp looking.


    To the OP:

    The reason why when you went from 3 wraps to 7 wraps your resistance only changed from .4 to .7, is because you are running dual coils.

    Dual coil builds end up at half the resistance of the coil. So that .4build was two .8ohm coils, and the .7build was 2 1.4ohm coils. So you see, by adding more wraps, the resistance went up from .8 to 1.4ohms, but since it was a dual coil, it reads lower.

    Dual coils are fun, they provide a really warm and moist vape. But one of my favorite ways to vape an RDA, is an exactly 1ohm single coil build, with plenty of silica to keep things saturated. I use 3mm silica, and pack however much the atty will allow me to practically use. I would highly suggest you get accustomed to building single coils before you do duals. You can build the single coil on the same atty that is setup for dual coil, you're not required to use all three posts. Use the middle one and whatever side one you like.


    As for batteries.. make things easy for yourself. Use ONLY:
    AW IMR 1600mah 18650. NOT the 2000mah
    MNKE 1500mah 18650

    There is one or two others which are acceptable for subohm, but these two batteries are tried and true. The Aw IMR has a 24amp limit, which is more then you'll likely use on a day to day basis. The MNKE is 20amp, but with an up to 80amp pulse limit, which basically means it can handle whatever coil you want to build.


    However, all this subohm and high amps is great and all, but Im pretty confident you will find out that once you get below .5 or so, flavor pretty much disapears and all you're doing is chasing clouds. I mean sure, all juice is different.. some do well at really low resistances, but for the most part, a well built .8ohm single coil on an atty with a good sized airhole will provide tremendous flavor and PA-LENTY of cloud.
     

    Ed_C

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    Oct 11, 2013
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    I really like the look of copper mods and was looking at that one as well. You'll have to tell us what you think when you get it. I've seen some Vanilla mods with the word vanilla on it and others, like this one, with a picture of a mountain. Are these an older model?
    I am surprised there isn't much talk about this mod. It is a very nice looking mod, awesome switch and hits hard!! I just picked up a copper and brass version and it is sweet!
     

    JmanEspresso

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  • Jul 15, 2013
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    I still want one of these. Might make an order today, idk. I shouldnt, but I want too.... AAHH decisions!!!

    The copper ones look so sweet. Im not a brass guy.. at least not a full brass mod. Some brass accents and such is cool though. But I really like stainless, brushed first, polished second. Or better yet, some time of media blasting. But, something about these copper vanillas.. so sweet looking!
     

    ambientech

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    I really like the look of copper mods and was looking at that one as well. You'll have to tell us what you think when you get it. I've seen some Vanilla mods with the word vanilla on it and others, like this one, with a picture of a mountain. Are these an older model?

    I got it from my local B&M so it is in hand. I have yet to find any fault with mine, it just works. AFAIK they are just different versions of the same mod. If anything I think the ones with Vanilla on them may be the older version since the one I picked up is fresh supply. Local Vape has some with the mountain pic and some with custom engravings, but that comes at a cost.
     

    ambientech

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    I still want one of these. Might make an order today, idk. I shouldnt, but I want too.... AAHH decisions!!!

    The copper ones look so sweet. Im not a brass guy.. at least not a full brass mod. Some brass accents and such is cool though. But I really like stainless, brushed first, polished second. Or better yet, some time of media blasting. But, something about these copper vanillas.. so sweet looking!

    It was a tough choice between the SS and Copper but something about the copper with brass accents was irresistible :2cool:
     

    ambientech

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    The one with the Smok-E Mountain logo on the side is for the US market and can only be gotten from authorized resellers. The one with the "Vanilla" name etched on the side is for other markets.

    @ambientech I'm interested with converting the switch to magnetic. Is it a straight out swap? Thanks!

    Yes:2cool:
     

    e30ernest

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    Mine does not, can anyone confirm they have them?

    I mean, you can pop the top off the thing and blow in with the bottom assembled and it doesn't seem like the air is going anywhere. I also don't see any holes in the switch assembly.

    You have to take the switch apart to see the holes. With the switch unlocked, I can blow through the tube just fine.



    Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
     

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    Ookii

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    You have to take the switch apart to see the holes. With the switch unlocked, I can blow through the tube just fine.

    Yes, I did the same thing myself and saw the holes, which is what I should of done in the first place. It does appear there is no air venting when the switch is locked because the locked part presses against the switch, normally the air vents around the switch. I wonder if it's worth putting some grooves in to allow venting when locked.

    Also, if you use the chi-you magnets to do a switch upgrade it will all but block most of the venting, so I wouldn't recommend anyone do that. I'm not sure if I'm being paranoid or not, but I would be concerned if my battery starts doing something crazy and there's no where for the air to go.
     
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