SmokTech RSST Genesis Rebuildable Atomizer

[Borescoped]

This tank rocks man,i have the AGA t2 and i can tell the difference in performance,that insulator in the wick hole should be in all tanks,the AGA just sucks power from the batts.Best wicks for this RSST is the SS cable,it so easy too setup,a 5 year old could do it,and i am not kidding.The new Richmond tank is the nest best thing too the RSST.

Cable is WIN! I bought a meter of it, and so far have only snipped off enough for 1 wick. Been using it for a week or two already. At this rate, this meter will last over a year, AND the flavors are great on it.

 

[henbone11]

Can someone please tell me the actual size of the screws used on this? Thanks.

 

[Chris6204]

Cable is WIN! I bought a meter of it, and so far have only snipped off enough for 1 wick. Been using it for a week or two already. At this rate, this meter will last over a year, AND the flavors are great on it.

Borescoped, if you don't mind I am interested in trying SS cable with a RSST I have coming and have a few questions:

1) where did you buy the SS cable?
2) exactly which cable did you buy/are using in your RSST?
3) how are you prepping the cable for use? Pulse method or torching the whole wick or?
4) are you use the SS cable by itself as a wick or hybrid (combined with other materials like cotton or silica)?

Thx in advance!

 

[kryptonicrxn]

Thanks, now to source out a local supplier for those, $15 shipping for $6 of washers seems excessive...

May be too late but here's to others that have lost/broke the center pin delrin washer on their RSST. Also, it's my perfect fix for that leakage that goes all the way down to your 510 connector.

I simply cut a circle (about 5mm dia) out of my silicon carto cap. Yes, that white plastic covering. Or any silicone material with similar thickness. You can also use a hole puncher for that perfect roundness. For the inner hole, get a nail/drill bit with similar diameter as your pin (preferably a little smaller for a tight seal). Burn it to red/white hot on your stove, go Gladiator style and pierce through your silicon. Apply and enjoy. It's been three weeks now and no leakage down my center pin.

Sorry, guess a picture will sum up this fix in a sec but I am away from it right now.

 

[dj-method-x]

just drilled out the air hole out on my RSST to 1/16th inch. Getting loooooooooooooooads of vapor.

 

[Shadoweb]

May be too late but here's to others that have lost/broke the center pin delrin washer on their RSST. Also, it's my perfect fix for that leakage that goes all the way down to your 510 connector.

I was replacing the top one to get rid of the rustable parts. Would love to replace the pin too.

 

[zipflint]

This is, BY FAR, my best RSST build to date. I forget what the sleeve material is called....nextel? I'm not sure, but it's like a hollow sleeve of ekowool and it works GREAT. I don't know if it's that stuff or this particular SS mesh roll, but it wicks super great.

Flavor and vapor are spectacular. .7Ohm, heats up quickly and keeps on and on and on.....
UGLY, no doubt about that, but it's beauty is on the inside.

 

[henbone11]

zipflint, I just did the same thing yesterday and it does work pretty well. Mine does not look anywhere as good as yours does though. In fact, it looks like quite a mess, but it works well. I used 3mm Ekowool. I find Ekowool hard enough to work with without it fraying badly, but torching it to keep it rigid then opening it to fit over the ss mesh, only succeeded in making it fray. I have to find a better way to do it, but as sloppy as it looks, it does work well. I have also found that I still have to leave the fill hole cap out in order for it to fully wick well. It improves juice taste as well, although I never got a particularly bad taste with just ss mesh.

I just reread everything I typed above and it sounds as horrible as my wick/coil looks, it's early still and I have not ingested enough coffee yet.

 

[UncleChuck]

zipflint, I just did the same thing yesterday and it does work pretty well. Mine does not look anywhere as good as yours does though. In fact, it looks like quite a mess, but it works well. I used 3mm Ekowool. I find Ekowool hard enough to work with without it fraying badly, but torching it to keep it rigid then opening it to fit over the ss mesh, only succeeded in making it fray. I have to find a better way to do it, but as sloppy as it looks, it does work well. I have also found that I still have to leave the fill hole cap out in order for it to fully wick well. It improves juice taste as well, although I never got a particularly bad taste with just ss mesh.

I just reread everything I typed above and it sounds as horrible as my wick/coil looks, it's early still and I have not ingested enough coffee yet.

I have found a way that works quite well for cleanly sheathing the mesh with 3mm ekowool that I have been using.

I use a piece of ekowool longer than the wick, so about half an inch or so sticks out both sides. I use the ekowool non-torched to keep it soft. So I slide the mesh wick inside the ekowool, pull the ekowool tight over the mesh wick, then tie off the ends of the ekowool with some thin kanthal.

It's kind of like a tootsie roll wrapped up in a paper wrapper, with the wrapper being the ekowool and the tootsie roll being the mesh wick. This keeps the ends from fraying while wrapping the coil. I also roll my mesh wick about a quarter inch longer than usual, you'll see why later.

Then I wrap the coil. I usually wrap my coils off the atty, and then install the whole wick and coil together at once. I put the coil about a quarter inch lower on the wick than you normally would for whatever device you use.

Then I torch the whole thing, this stiffens the ekowool in a tight strong pattern around the mesh wick. I like to make sure it's glowing before I stop torching it. Then, carefully, using some tiny clippers I trim the bottom part of the ekowool off the mesh wick below the coil. Then install the wick and coil, connect your wires, and make sure everything looks good. Then take some clippers and cut that extra quarter inch you left at the top.

It's kind of an involved process, but the finished product turns out excellent. It's very clean and fraying is much less of an issue. Personally i prefer mesh in contact with my coils but it's kind of a fun build.

 

[pizza2me]

Heading out to get a drill bit today. I know it's to each his own, but it seems that a good consensus for the air hole is 1/16". Yes?

I have a couple extra now so I'm going to try it out.

 

[zipflint]

Hey that sounds like THE way to do it! Next time I need to rebuild I'm definitely going to do that.
Maybe when/if my Hybrid Elite ever ships from vaportekusa......

I have found a way that works quite well for cleanly sheathing the mesh with 3mm ekowool that I have been using.

I use a piece of ekowool longer than the wick, so about half an inch or so sticks out both sides. I use the ekowool non-torched to keep it soft. So I slide the mesh wick inside the ekowool, pull the ekowool tight over the mesh wick, then tie off the ends of the ekowool with some thin kanthal.

It's kind of like a tootsie roll wrapped up in a paper wrapper, with the wrapper being the ekowool and the tootsie roll being the mesh wick. This keeps the ends from fraying while wrapping the coil. I also roll my mesh wick about a quarter inch longer than usual, you'll see why later.

Then I wrap the coil. I usually wrap my coils off the atty, and then install the whole wick and coil together at once. I put the coil about a quarter inch lower on the wick than you normally would for whatever device you use.

Then I torch the whole thing, this stiffens the ekowool in a tight strong pattern around the mesh wick. I like to make sure it's glowing before I stop torching it. Then, carefully, using some tiny clippers I trim the bottom part of the ekowool off the mesh wick below the coil. Then install the wick and coil, connect your wires, and make sure everything looks good. Then take some clippers and cut that extra quarter inch you left at the top.

It's kind of an involved process, but the finished product turns out excellent. It's very clean and fraying is much less of an issue. Personally i prefer mesh in contact with my coils but it's kind of a fun build.

 

[henbone11]

I have found a way that works quite well for cleanly sheathing the mesh with 3mm ekowool that I have been using.

I use a piece of ekowool longer than the wick, so about half an inch or so sticks out both sides. I use the ekowool non-torched to keep it soft. So I slide the mesh wick inside the ekowool, pull the ekowool tight over the mesh wick, then tie off the ends of the ekowool with some thin kanthal.

It's kind of like a tootsie roll wrapped up in a paper wrapper, with the wrapper being the ekowool and the tootsie roll being the mesh wick. This keeps the ends from fraying while wrapping the coil. I also roll my mesh wick about a quarter inch longer than usual, you'll see why later.

Then I wrap the coil. I usually wrap my coils off the atty, and then install the whole wick and coil together at once. I put the coil about a quarter inch lower on the wick than you normally would for whatever device you use.

Then I torch the whole thing, this stiffens the ekowool in a tight strong pattern around the mesh wick. I like to make sure it's glowing before I stop torching it. Then, carefully, using some tiny clippers I trim the bottom part of the ekowool off the mesh wick below the coil. Then install the wick and coil, connect your wires, and make sure everything looks good. Then take some clippers and cut that extra quarter inch you left at the top.

It's kind of an involved process, but the finished product turns out excellent. It's very clean and fraying is much less of an issue. Personally i prefer mesh in contact with my coils but it's kind of a fun build.

This does sound like a sound way of doing it, but i'm somewhat of an ogre and would cut into the ss mesh if I tried that. I will have to play around the next time I rebuild this thing to see if there isn't a better way for me to do it. Thanks for the input.

 

[GoodInk]

Heading out to get a drill bit today. I know it's to each his own, but it seems that a good consensus for the air hole is 1/16". Yes?

I have a couple extra now so I'm going to try it out.

I would like know how big can you go before you start to lose flavour?

 

[pizza2me]

I would like know how big can you go before you start to lose flavour?

I found that 1/16 lost too much TH for me. I couldn't tell much on the flavor. Flavor is not as important to me. My wife likes it. Loads more vapor. She says flavor is about the same but her taste buds ain't so good anymore either. Not much help eh?

 

[pizza2me]

Anybody find a good size nylon thumb screw that'll fit the fill hole?

 

[pmar4015]

I was trying to find a screw for the fill hole myself. Hope someone knows the answer!

 

[pizza2me]

I was trying to find a screw for the fill hole myself. Hope someone knows the answer!

FYI... My HD had a very limited selection, but I did find a regular nylon 6-32 size. Slightly to thick. that works with a little filing and trimming. I just don't know what the next size down is. Google time I guess. I just thought somebody might have already found it.

 

[posthumous]

I found that 1/16 lost too much TH for me. I couldn't tell much on the flavor. Flavor is not as important to me. My wife likes it. Loads more vapor. She says flavor is about the same but her taste buds ain't so good anymore either. Not much help eh?

If you like to get back some TH, deliberately misalign the air hole a tad away from the wick-coil.

 

[zipflint]

Here's a short video my RSST with a hybrid SS mesh/ekowool sleeve wick.
.7 Ohm.
On a ChinaGG

 

[forresthunter]

so is this a good "beginners" atty, or would you suggest a different one?