SmokTech The Natural - New mechanical device

Status
Not open for further replies.

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
9,013
49,597
Imperial Beach, California
Gee that's funny, I just did every thing but the switch, I have a much noticeable difference, there is no question as numbers never lie.
"Test Work, Not Guess Work"
By the way, the switch with it's stainless steel is the biggest culprit here.:2c:

Edit: I'm only assuming that it's stainless, I didn't actually confirm what the plunger is made of, does anyone know?
 
Last edited:

Tintreach

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
This whole "voltage drop of a mod" is hogwash and myth (except in the case of a serious failure of the mod).

Read this, carefully: Voltage drop under load explained well.

That is very correct... however I haven't seen anyone measuring the resistance at the contacts or current under load. I would assume by cleaning, sanding or polishing the contacts this would do 1 of 2 things.

A: Decrease the natural resistance caused from patina, oxidization or plating with poor conductivity.
B: By exposing either a higher conductive surface or more surface area.

This in theory should allow more electrons to pass through resulting with a higher current throughput or less resistance. They are both the same just depends on how you look at it. I'll post an update when I get into the mod modding. Still a great piece.
 

meatsneakers

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 3, 2011
378
202
NYC
This whole "voltage drop of a mod" is hogwash and myth (except in the case of a serious failure of the mod).

Read this, carefully: Voltage drop under load explained well.

Please don't spread misinformation.

Some mods have very large voltage drops at the contacts. All mods running off a battery will indeed have a voltage drop, but removing the devices resistance and leaving only the batteries voltage drop gives you the maximum amount of power. For instance, after calculating my amp draw, I can look at a test chart for my battery and see that the voltage drop is right in line with it's rated spec - my device has a negligible impact on power delivery. Other mods with low conducting metal contacts will convert current into heat at the contacts, effectively stealing power that shoud have heated the coil and turned it into power to heat the mod.

You misinterpreted that linked article.
 

VapingTurtle

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 26, 2011
17,702
50,237
68
The Reef just off the Florida coast
Measure the voltage of your battery. Put it in your mechanical mod. Put your probes on the 510 (or whatever) contacts. Measure the voltage. No load involved other than the resistance of the mod's switch, contacts, and body. Do you see a (measurable) voltage drop? More than 0.01v?
 

meatsneakers

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 3, 2011
378
202
NYC
Measure the voltage of your battery. Put it in your mechanical mod. Put your probes on the 510 (or whatever) contacts. Measure the voltage. No load involved other than the resistance of the mod's switch, contacts, and body. Do you see a (measurable) voltage drop? More than 0.01v?

Because there is very little current passing through the mod. Do the same with a 1 ohm load and you'll see a .5v drop ON TOP of the battery drop on some mods. You're wrong, please read the rest of this thread.

edit-
To test this easily at home - take an extension cord and plug a small lamp into it. Touch the cord after a minute somewhere in the middle. It's probably cool. That lamp is your multimeter or voltage tester.

Now, plug a vacuum in the same cord, let it run for a minute and then touch the cord. It's probably quite warm. The vacuum is an atomizer.

The extension cord heat is the loss of voltage to resistance in the copper wiring - the same loss of voltage that a mod will experience, and it becomes worse with high loads.
 
Last edited:
The threading on the Natural's 510 connection is, to put it nicely, crap. Smoktech's sort of got a history of not being very clean when it comes to that part of their mods. A lot of people have the same complaint about the Telescope. I've got several atty's that don't like to thread onto my Natural, and they're the same ones that hated my Telescope.

The only real solution I've ever found is to just make them thread. Screw them on a little, back them off, wipe the connector on the atty, blow out the Natural's 510 connector, and try it again. After a *lot* of back and forth (the worst case I've had was my AC9, which took three hours to work down to flush), you can get stuff to thread. It gets better with time as the rough spots in the threading are worn away.

Can you explain how you got the AC9 to fit flush? I've got the same issue..
 

Mitey F

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 6, 2013
1,043
862
Michigan, yearning for home
had mine for a few weeks now, and the vamo is collecting dust. in 18350 mode, it has the cost, size, weight, and vapor production that i was looking for in a mod.

I too have more or less abandoned my Vamo since I got my Natural. I've thought about putting it up for sale, but it's nice to have a backup besides Egos...
 

Mitey F

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 6, 2013
1,043
862
Michigan, yearning for home
Gee that's funny, I just did every thing but the switch, I have a much noticeable difference, there is no question as numbers never lie.
"Test Work, Not Guess Work"
By the way, the switch with it's stainless steel is the biggest culprit here.:2c:

Edit: I'm only assuming that it's stainless, I didn't actually confirm what the plunger is made of, does anyone know?

PLEASE tell me that you realize how ironic this statement is? :facepalm:
 

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
9,013
49,597
Imperial Beach, California
PLEASE tell me that you realize how ironic this statement is? :facepalm:
I'm not too sure what is "wrong" with the post, substantial improvements were made at 3 points other than the switch.
I received another mechanical in the mail today, the .9 ohms atomizer that I've been using on the Natural fires way hotter on the new one, so much so that I will build the next coil @ 1.2, now that's ironic.
 

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
9,013
49,597
Imperial Beach, California
The "test work not guess work" comment, immediately followed by faulting part of the mod for an ASSUMPTION you make seems a bit ridiculous.

Edit: it's very easy to TEST whether the switch is stainless or not, and in fact, only part of it is.
My measurements showed the switch has high resistance.
The button part of the switch is of no concern to me but is the plunger part is if brass, is it? I wan't able to readily unscrew the plastic disc just ahead of the switch so I gave up temporally on the switch.

OK I see the plunger part of it's brass
Finished, nice easy to push button also now.
 
Last edited:

dwcraig1

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 17, 2012
9,013
49,597
Imperial Beach, California
Dos Amigos

548868_584747078216187_348291987_n.jpg
 

StaircaseWit

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 18, 2013
995
462
The Pit of Despair
Please don't spread misinformation.

Some mods have very large voltage drops at the contacts. All mods running off a battery will indeed have a voltage drop, but removing the devices resistance and leaving only the batteries voltage drop gives you the maximum amount of power. For instance, after calculating my amp draw, I can look at a test chart for my battery and see that the voltage drop is right in line with it's rated spec - my device has a negligible impact on power delivery. Other mods with low conducting metal contacts will convert current into heat at the contacts, effectively stealing power that shoud have heated the coil and turned it into power to heat the mod.

You misinterpreted that linked article.

I think I've seen MANU's comment misinterpreted more than I've seen it correctly interpreted.

It boils down to this -- decide whether you think it's valid or not: if you want to test the "voltage drop" (really should be stated as "device total resistance") between two mechanical mods (the comparison is useless for VV/VW devices), use the exact same battery fresh off a reliable charger and the same exact coil on the same exact RBA. Any other comparisons are essentially meaningless, as they don't take into account battery internal resistance under load, nor device resistance nor RBA and coil resistance.
 

USinchains

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Oct 15, 2009
995
440
49
The Terrordrome, FL
www.myspace.com
Don't know how it happened but the negative post in my natural is stripped where it screws together. It threads but won't tighten. I've never used more than my finger nails on each side to tighten it together.
Mine came that way, or perhaps I did it without knowing. When I left the washer out of the mix I was able to tighten them down. This allows the pin to drop out when you turn the mod upside down, but I think that makes disassembly easier.
 
Last edited:

c00lkatz

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 10, 2011
171
83
Dallas, TX
Don't know how it happened but the negative post in my natural is stripped where it screws together. It threads but won't tighten. I've never used more than my finger nails on each side to tighten it together.

Don't know how you managed that. I have a lot of APV's and never had that problem. No die I can think of would fix that. Might have to see if anyone has any spares. Would be worth posting in the classifieds or emailing a few vendors. I know a few of them have spare parts, probably from DOA units they got warrantied from the manufacturer.

EDIT: I was thinking bottom cap itself, but after re-reading, sounds like you're talking about the section of the negative post itself. Sorry, I replaced mine with a solid post shortly after I got it, forgot about that. Just replace it with a solid post. It's cheap, easy, and better performance.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread