Don't worry I got my black one from Goodejuice when they first released and it's still running like day 1.
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Don't worry I got my black one from Goodejuice when they first released and it's still running like day 1.
good to hear, thanks for the info. i cant wait for this thing to be in my hands!
I believe CCV has stainless Vmax's with the NEW Blue LED's.....and ego top connectors. Another vendor is suppose to have them also now but I can't remember the name of the vendor.
Oh wait ...I have a email from the other vendor advertising for it. I'll see if I can locate it.....
Oh wait ...I have a email from the other vendor advertising for it. I'll see if I can locate it.....
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Correct, he verified it for me this morning before i ordered mine that the ones he got in today are blue with the ego top.
Sure a lot better than moved on. Good luck to ya Pwyll, you will be missed in this sub.
My guess is pwyll is becoming a registered seller
Guess what folks?
The replacement Chrome Vmax that I got last week isn't working. The display is giving an F2 error and cycling through the numbers but not firing up, and I Know what the problem is - the ground connection is floating around and isn't attached to anything.
Whilst I was trying to repair the broken steel Vmax I realized nothing wants to stay soldered on to the inside of the end cap - even if it's "keyed" first. Any slight movement of the atty wires and the solder just comes loose.
Anyone that's had a Vmax that doesn't power up but has the cycling numbers has the same issue.
This is the third broken Vmax and I'm quite bummed about it - I can only take so much before I lose faith in a brand.
I think it's ProVari time...
The replacement Chrome Vmax that I got last week isn't working. The display is giving an F2 error and cycling through the numbers but not firing up, and I Know what the problem is - the ground connection is floating around and isn't attached to anything.
Whilst I was trying to repair the broken steel Vmax I realized nothing wants to stay soldered on to the inside of the end cap - even if it's "keyed" first. Any slight movement of the atty wires and the solder just comes loose.
Anyone that's had a Vmax that doesn't power up but has the cycling numbers has the same issue.
This is the third broken Vmax and I'm quite bummed about it - I can only take so much before I lose faith in a brand.
I think it's ProVari time...
I'd be just as bummed given the circumstances. Sometimes it's just not meant to be. I'm not that brand loyal that I could experience 3 dysfunctional units either. Guess I'm lucky that both mine have been pretty much flawless. The Provari is an excellent unit, no doubt.
Well, just ordered an SS rev 4, so I suppose I need to check in and say hi
LUCCKKKYYYYYY!
Hi Giant
Welcome!
Dang I should have waited a week to get the blue display Owell this thing still kicks ..... The battery life on this thing is amazing.
Owell this thing still kicks ..... The battery life on this thing is amazing.
Forgive me if i posted this in the wrong spot but thought you all might have some info in this, i got my IMR 18350's charging for the first time and for the first hour the charger (HG-1210W) was solid red light now it started a very quickly red blinking? take out the 18350's?------Nevermind, from what i could find on the interwebs the quick red blink goes to a green red blink then solid green.
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From looking at your pictures and also see how the negative was cold soldered on ego batteries, I thought that might be the problem with a lot of these Vmax's. What do you think about drilling small hole toward edge of cap and putting small brass screw ( or an eye screw) so as to wrap negative wire and then solder it?
Edit : And how is negative wire attached on Provari?
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No real need for a screw buddy. Just drill a tiny hole, make sure it's super clean then lay the wire inside and then solder it in leaving a little extra raw wire exposed outside of the hole so you get good coverage of solder from the hole out to the raw stripped wire and let it kinda lay down flat coming out of the hole. Making sure everything is sqeeky/sticky clean in the hole and out is the main key. If done correctly it will have to be cut off before it pulls off/out.
Yep....thinking I will be picking up my second in Gun Metal from CCV. I am so impressed with my SS and the efest batts it maybe time to list the ol ProVari in the classies.
I saw the cap and connector design has the lightning bolts, was hoping it was going to have the dimples like the SS.
I'll get over it though.....
I saw the cap and connector design has the lightning bolts, was hoping it was going to have the dimples like the SS.
I'll get over it though.....
I think it's just the Ego Connector...it's getting a little confusing.
Version 1
Silver-Reset at 3v
Black " "
Version 2 or Rev 2
Chrome- Reset at 5v
Stainless " "
Version 3 or Rev 4
Stainless w/Ego connector
Gun Metal w/Ego connector (added option Blue LED)
I'm sure this is wrong...it's starting to get a little confusing so hopefully somebody can correct this if needed.
Version 1
Silver-Reset at 3v
Black " "
Version 2 or Rev 2
Chrome- Reset at 5v
Stainless " "
Version 3 or Rev 4
Stainless w/Ego connector
Gun Metal w/Ego connector (added option Blue LED)
I'm sure this is wrong...it's starting to get a little confusing so hopefully somebody can correct this if needed.
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