Smoktech Vmax Owners - tips, tricks and quirks

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buffaloguy

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Ok the problem is not your vmax.... its the Vivi.

Ive had this same issue with mine on a couple of occasions. There is a fix. Go to the hardware store and buy a grinding stone or a metal file with a fine grain to it. Shouldnt cost more than $3.50. I got a stone with a post in it that attached to my power drill. Most dremels have grinding stone attachments too.

Push that center post down with an atty head screwed in fully. then grind down the 510 connection on the base of the vivi.... just a lil bit. Check it for F1 or F2 errors. When I say a little bit... I mean grind very gently with little pressure.

That will fix your issues. For whatever reason some vivis have no issues while others do. Its been a persistant problem since version 1. And yes, all of mine are vision products..

Oh and make sure to blow out and then wash the base completely to get rid of the metal filings.

Thanks for the great thread guys, I have read the whole thing over a few weeks......lol. This thread helped me decide on the Vmax for replacement to my first vv that bit the dust (plastic box mod). I love it. :)

I have had my Vmax for about a month now and have had no issues until lately. :( It seems as though my center post in the 510 connection is too low. I would get the F1 or F2 error with my mini vivi nova and would have to back it out a couple of threads to get it to work. I am having the same issue with some other cartos as well. When I back it out the vivi nova feels loose and sloppy in the threads. So, using the search in this forum and the advice from this thread, I was able to raise my center post. But, the center post seems looses and works its way down while I am vaping. I have never over tightened anything on the device as I was aware of the danger from reading this thread.

Is there any way to fix the center post so it does not move up and down so easily? I have submitted a trouble ticket with the vendor and am waiting to see what they suggest. Oh, I have the stainless steel Vmax with the blue button, red led, and the ego style top.

Is there a reason that the center post is free floating, it seems as though it would work better if it was a solid connection?
 
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mrelwood

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Couldn't find any info searching this thread, so must ask. How does one take the vMax apart? I realize it is tricky and the outcome may not look nice, but I got one for free with a moody button, so I decided to try to make it work.

Looking at it for a while, it seems that the plastic top cap is glued in place, and the only way to take the circuit board out is to remove the top cap. Am I right?
 

Errol

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Like what you have done with the covering in the center photo. What did you use?

Errol


Hi guys!

Read every single post in this thread (took me two weeks) and had to gain enough posts just to be able to post here. Got lots of useful information.

Got an SS iTube aka VMax V3 with 2 pairs of efest 800 mah batts, 2 Vivi Novas and a Phoenix rebuildable atomizer V3. Been vaping for more than a year but the VMax is the only one that totally weaned me from cigarettes. Been analog free for two weeks now.

sig.jpg


I'm just curious why a post a while back suggested to stay clear from the iTube?
 

mrelwood

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Take a flathead and pry it off being careful not to jerk it out because the positive wire will come with it or you could wrap some tape around the top several times and put it in a vice and wiggle it off.

Thanks for the reply. Even a knife doesn't fit between the body and the cap, and they feel like they were welded shut. There is only about 2mm of flat edge on the cap, so the tape and vice did nothing but a few scuff marks.

I decided that I will get the cap off no matter what. So I took the modders best friend, a butane torch. Heating the metal and trying to push the knife in the seam finally started to take the cap out in very slight amounts. I'm now at about 0.5mm and quite sweaty. I'll continue tomorrow.

Man, these are NOT meant to be disassembled!
 

hubblecraft83

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I understand, you don't actually pry it from the outside. You insert the screwdriver from the bottom of the tube then lightly tap it with a hammer.

But don't immediately believe me...its just the way I understand it. :)

That is how the provari is put together. I would freeze the top and torch the tube. Buy some canned air and hold it upside down to freeze. Have a friend freeze and torch while you carefully tap it out. Good luck!
 

becosemsaida

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A noob question. I am getting mine soon in a few days. What voltage would you recommend for stardust or the vivi nova ?

thank you

It all depends on you. Also depends on the head you have in your vivi. Start with fresh batts and at 3.0V and work your way to the sweetspot. I use a 2.8 Ohm, self wicked, and usually use it at 3,5V (comes out at about 4-4.3V "real" voltage).

Don't be afraid, just start at 3.0V and adjust as you like it better or worse...... Afterall it is a VV device.

Good luck
 

kumkum

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It all depends on you. Also depends on the head you have in your vivi. Start with fresh batts and at 3.0V and work your way to the sweetspot. I use a 2.8 Ohm, self wicked, and usually use it at 3,5V (comes out at about 4-4.3V "real" voltage).

Don't be afraid, just start at 3.0V and adjust as you like it better or worse...... Afterall it is a VV device.

Good luck

Thank you. It gives some understanding. Thanks to Shofixti as well
 

tnt56

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Hi guys!

Read every single post in this thread (took me two weeks) and had to gain enough posts just to be able to post here. Got lots of useful information.

Got an SS iTube aka VMax V3 with 2 pairs of efest 800 mah batts, 2 Vivi Novas and a Phoenix rebuildable atomizer V3. Been vaping for more than a year but the VMax is the only one that totally weaned me from cigarettes. Been analog free for two weeks now.

sig.jpg


I'm just curious why a post a while back suggested to stay clear from the iTube?

I'd like to know where you got the cover from in the second picture. Looks cool.
 

Optimo

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Thanks for the reply. Even a knife doesn't fit between the body and the cap, and they feel like they were welded shut. There is only about 2mm of flat edge on the cap, so the tape and vice did nothing but a few scuff marks.

I decided that I will get the cap off no matter what. So I took the modders best friend, a butane torch. Heating the metal and trying to push the knife in the seam finally started to take the cap out in very slight amounts. I'm now at about 0.5mm and quite sweaty. I'll continue tomorrow.

Man, these are NOT meant to be disassembled!

Wow, you got one that was put together very very well lol. Knocking it out from the bottom sound slike it could work.
 

becosemsaida

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Wow, you got one that was put together very very well lol. Knocking it out from the bottom sound slike it could work.

Mine is also very nice build. I wondered how to disassemble this but don't think that "pliers" are going to do the trick. Maybe from the bottom is possible but how to do it without damaging the board?

Still the only negative thing is that i'm loosing my "paint", makes this device look very used (it is......) and only have it for one and a half month. Ok, maybe i'm using it too much but it can take a beating. I bought it to use it on a daily basis so it has to endure everything i do !!!! Untill now nothing is changed and my device works properly although it has crashed on the ground a few times on diferent surfaces. Maybe it's time to glue this to my hand........
 

dwcraig1

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Thanks for the reply. Even a knife doesn't fit between the body and the cap, and they feel like they were welded shut. There is only about 2mm of flat edge on the cap, so the tape and vice did nothing but a few scuff marks.

I decided that I will get the cap off no matter what. So I took the modders best friend, a butane torch. Heating the metal and trying to push the knife in the seam finally started to take the cap out in very slight amounts. I'm now at about 0.5mm and quite sweaty. I'll continue tomorrow.

Man, these are NOT meant to be disassembled!
Check here, pictures have been removed but you should get some ideas
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...wners-tips-tricks-quirks-226.html#post6850620
 

mrelwood

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Wow, you got one that was put together very very well lol. Knocking it out from the bottom sound slike it could work.

Very well indeed. I hit the screwdriver as hard as I could, not a hinch. Freezing the cap and torching the tube, hitting again, not even a hair of movement. Felt like it was welded shut.

Check here, pictures have been removed but you should get some ideas
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...wners-tips-tricks-quirks-226.html#post6850620

The link only leads to this same page.

But I finally did get it out. I was about to lose my nerve and decided not to worry about leaving marks. I squeezed the end cap to a vice very tight and started to do very small movements on the tube. I had to use a whole lot of force, but it finally started moving and came out!

It turned out that most of the gap I had made was actually me creating a groove in the metal itself with the knife! I filed the ugly marks down to a shape, and steel wooled the cap to a shiny finish. It doesn't look that bad actually, but I'm sure there will be a small gap after assembling.

I would think that the best way to get it out would be a bolt with 510 threading and possibly a steel tube that would fit in the juice flood collector groove. Prying the bolt and the steel tube sideways could make it come out more easily.

The quirky button was obvious, the body of the button was sliced in half and fell apart when taking it out. I will replace the switch and wait for the batteries.

I think I'll steel wool the whole tube to the chrome, since the matte layer chips off pretty easily.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll make sure to make the fitting looser before assembling.
 
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