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Well I don't know if I want to attemp the whole tube just yet because of the button and screen not being removable, think the paint will be stuck in the crevices and it may screw up the plastic. Anyways for those wondering here is a picture of the top and bottom cap that I stripped last night...........boy there are some dirty words in this post....
Looking good Kurtus but I think I've come up with a better solution.
When the SS vmaxes are available I'm buying one
I think your right on there, I will be too but after just purchasing a DID and an Atom rebuildable atty I'm flat assed broke for a while..........however I'm sure I'll find some money buried deep in my pockets somehow soon lolLooking good Kurtus but I think I've come up with a better solution.
When the SS vmaxes are available I'm buying one
i was going to wait for the ss vmax but i thought it might be a fingerprint magnet like the chrome.
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There will also be a BLACK CHROME version being RELEASED soon! Just a HEADS UP! OH YEAH, that is GUARANTEED to be in my hands!
Looking forward to hearing how that Cartomizer punch works out for ya. I like that it has a set stopping point and the price seems pretty fair! It looked like in the guy's video that he showed one of them 801 Boge fusion as a sample punch; at least it looked similar.
PS Thanks for all the good replies here in the posts everyone! I'll be purchasing mine sometime in early July. Need to spend too much on the juice side of things this month, I've been mooching off my friend's supply for this past month.
Presently using an Ego-T 3.7volt pass through. It's "alright" but when I tried my friend's Ego Twist with the over 4 volt settings, I got all excited and not so much happy about my gear anymore lol.
Everything I've read and seen indicates that the v1 defaults to 5 volts and the v2 defaults to 3 volts, and the only time I've heard a reference to a v3 was the soon-to-be-released "stainless steel." So what do you consider the differences between the v1 and v2?
The V1 where only produced a few days, having problems with the button. The V2 was considered by some still V1, AFAIK only button fixed. The V3 not only has the button fix, also the screen can be deactivated, and it resets to 3 volts. Also the painting is done better at the V3. However, how can posibly somebody know if we have now a V4,5, or whatsoever, changing all the time the product.
What is the issue with the button on the v1 and how would you know that you have the v2 button? I'm wondering because I have had my vmax for 3 weeks now and have no issues with the button so far.
Aha, I headn't heard that at all. Knew some people had problems with their button but most didn't, but with the way the reports "came in" I just assumed it was a problem with the line that got worked out or some bad buttons in the first batch.
If the button was the only thing fixed, I would call it v1 and v1.1, with the actual revision (rather than a simple fix) being v2. But I'm old enough to remember when version numbers followed a logical progession rather than simply being arbitrary--heck, I remember when version numbers had two decimals, and cars came in half-year models...
I'm pretty sure you'd know by now. The reports I saw of the bad buttons said they were pretty screwy straight out of the box, and most people were talking about sending them back within a day or two...
Saw this posted in another thread. Had I known about it prior to ordering the v2 punch I would have likely tried out something like this first.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/3871290/Shaft-Collars/3/8-in.-Shaft-Collar
You have to find a wing nut or metal screw for the collar but believe the idea is sound provided the point is sharp and hard. The main problem with this whole procedure is deformation of the carto creating an ineffective seal around the tank o-rings. The sharper the point the less the deformation.
I'm still waiting for both the punch and Fusion cartos to arrive.
http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/3871290/Shaft-Collars/3/8-in.-Shaft-Collar
You have to find a wing nut or metal screw for the collar but believe the idea is sound provided the point is sharp and hard. The main problem with this whole procedure is deformation of the carto creating an ineffective seal around the tank o-rings. The sharper the point the less the deformation.
I'm still waiting for both the punch and Fusion cartos to arrive.
This. Some people reported buttons sticking and never becoming unstuck to the effect that you could no longer change display options.
All I heard was guys where dropping their devices and the buttons stopped clicking, simple......don't drop your chit lol...
Then there was Fazed who just had a "dud" idk but I think he claimed the button failed and was not capable of handling the 5amp rating it is supposed to have, I know I sure wouldn't run a 1.5 ohm dc at 6v but thats just me!!
I'm still wondering how fsroq has determined that there is a v1 out there with an updated button though and how would you know cause I think it is just luck of the draw on the button issue and v2 addresses a few issues of the v1.
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I know we have the same vmax batch from the same vendor kurtus. My button is fine and so is yours
Although our versions (and most others out there) have the button that rattles when you shake your unit (did I just say that?), this is not considered a defect. The newest versions have even improved upon this and minimized or eliminated the rattling sound.
I still love my original untamed rattly buttoned vmax.
It will be interesting to see if the new SS versions have improved cap threads.
You know who would have loved that reply.......lmfaoI know we have the same vmax batch from the same vendor kurtus. My button is fine and so is yours
Although our versions (and most others out there) have the button that rattles when you shake your unit (did I just say that?), this is not considered a defect. The newest versions have even improved upon this and minimized or eliminated the rattling sound.
I still love my original untamed rattly buttoned vmax.
It will be interesting to see if the new SS versions have improved cap threads.
I think my unit is perfect.....the vmax that is and I'm a little concerned I'll be disappointed with the v2 power output but I would love a blue led version of the ss vmax if that exists. I'm reading through the whole thread now trying to figure out what the blue led unit actually is but maybe you can shed a little light on it for me?
Thats pretty cool but seems like a big pita to find a wingnut that would be strong enough to hold up unlike what you bought so don't beat yourself up too much.......I bought one of those siam tank fillers too and thats a great device by the looks of it, haven't got it yet though
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