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AW. I have 6 of them, and none would fit. In my 1st unit, they all fit fine.
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I hope it's an isolated incident,as I've got four AW IMR's waiting for mine when it comes in!
I haven't heard of anyone else having this problem. And in my 1st unit they fit fine.
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Fazed, see post #51 here for further insights on battery types and fitment for the vmax. According to that report the AW IMR 18350's should fit. It could be that different production runs are using different end caps with micro differences in cap wall width. Also possible that the AW's themselves have slight variations in width depending on who is making/wrapping them.
Agreed, it sure does suck to be a 'beta tester' and having to pay full pop for that privilege on early run, new product launches. This seems quite common however with many devices, including the Provari when it was first launched, from what I recall reading. There is almost always an increased cost / frustration in being an early adopter. LT is what...up to version 12 or so to date? Fortunately prices now seem to be coming down making it much more affordable for those who can't come up with the $ for the more expensive gear but still require a powerful vv device. Many have seen a 100% savings over a Provari (also a fabulous device, obviously), and even more when you consider the price differences between these two devices in other parts of the world. It's not just the '$30 more' as is often misquoted.
For now the vmax seems to be what it is, until further improvements and lower pricing offer even more value. Most have expressed that it does indeed feel like it runs hotter at a given indicated voltage and you simply have to adjust for that. Not a big deal really. In my case, although the indicated 3v does seem to run as hot as some of my 3.7 devices, I have no practical use for a power setting that is less than this. Despite the fact future versions may see recalibration of the lower indicated voltage output. Sure that would be a nice to have but again, for me, it wouldn't make much of a difference.
Wondering if a small amount of proper lubricant would allow a better battery fit in the cap; someone like VAPNJ350 or Martinc here would be far more qualified to comment on that.
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Had to look this up. Sure looks impressive. Not quite ready to go the rebuildable atty route just yet but I'm certain it's only a matter of time.
None of my 18350's fit. All AW. I
Could force them, but it would damage the wrappers. I wouldn't ever lubricate a battery to make it fit. I think you are asking for trouble if you do. For me and this particular VMAX, AW 16340's fit and work just fine with 15-16 hours of heavy vaping. Maybe down the road I'll get a new end cap for it to use the proper batteries when parts become available.
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Could force them, but it would damage the wrappers. I wouldn't ever lubricate a battery to make it fit. I think you are asking for trouble if you do. For me and this particular VMAX, AW 16340's fit and work just fine with 15-16 hours of heavy vaping. Maybe down the road I'll get a new end cap for it to use the proper batteries when parts become available.
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That's the thing I also envisioned for this thread, not to only talk of issues but share really good setups. What atties / cartos / tanks work better than others, what to avoid, 'must have's' etc. I want to buy a bunch of stuff for the V but still holding out for some recommendations.
I'm mainly using the ST DCT's, both 4ml and 6.5. I think they look fabulous on the vmax. Imagine that. ST tanks on a ST deviceBut I'm not totally happy with the ST 2.5 DC cartos presently in these tanks. I still seem to get a lot of flooding despite playing around with juice viscosity, vaping techniques, etc. I have to blow these cartos out at least once a day and it wastes a bit juice and is just plain messy. I think I'm going to try the new Boge XXL's next and slot them myself.
Hey Fuzzi and all who take a minute to read this, I know a few techniques that I'm about to describe and recommend may sound a little extreme or overkill, maybe even un-necessary but all I can tell you folks it what works basically flawless for me and by now I think and hope you all know by now I don't just type to hear the keys tap. Their are a few primary setups I use and have stuck with for months now that I've taken a few bricks of different kinds of cartos with the only goal of finding which ones work best in tanks and where to put wicking holes and most important, HOW MANY.....I'll try to keep this as short as possible. 1st I want to kinda quickly go over a few things about carto's and how I chose. If you have been vaping for a while and have paid close attention to the fillers in cartos you know by now their all kinda different in 1 way, they may all use the exact same brand or type of filler(don't know that as fact) but they all have very different density levels and it seems not even the same height of filler within the carto. 2 of the same cartos made by the same company, 1 will have filler 1/4" inch from the top, the next will have it 1/2" from the top. Why? I have no clue. Now I took 5 bricks of 5 different types and brands of cartos, broke out the dremel and started cutting. After closely examining these I found Smoktech to have a less dense, some loosely wrapped filler and alot of them would leak thinner juices thru the connector end if overfilled by 3-4 drops. Also Smoktech uses a (what appeared to be,"not fact") paper air tube coated with a substance that eventually does break down and the air tube looses it's structural integrity after time. Next I went with the BOGE 510 standard(35-40mm) & XL(45-50mm) CARTO. Now these both had a much much denser filler,very rare leaking from connector with very thin juice after 5 drops overfilled(unless put directly down or dropped on to the center air tube ofcourse. You get my point. And he BOGE's air tube is much sturdier. It appears to be made out of some type of polypropylene wrapped or coated fiber cloth (not fact) or something along those lines but seems to not break down when exposed to our juice mixes,it maintains it's structural integrity pretty well. Now being these 2 carto's have a much denser type filler it took me awhile to get them to wick effortlessly with even chain vaping. But I did, and this is where you all are going to say " thats nutz" but trust...it works awesome. I put 6 holes in the XL BOGE (45-50mm) YES 6 !! And it is the best flavor and wicking I EVER got out of a BOGE in a tank. The 6 holes have to be put in the right places ofcourse, from 1 up top under the top cap of the tank to the bottom but it really works. Yes it almost looks like swiis cheese but the integrity of the carto maintains perfectly and they last a good while. Now the standard BOGE honestly I have to get back to but I didn't do it in a tank because I got such good results from the XL I just never did it.....and I was really wanting to get to the next carto I had waiting. The BOGE 801 FUSION 3.0 CARTO. For those of you who know about this carto I don't have to tell you anything you don't already know. For those that have never tried these. GET SOME. These carto's give me the strongest, richest, boldest, punch you in the mouth flavor I've found after 2 years of looking. You will need a adapter(510 to 801) and I highly recommend the regular NOT the shorty, for some reason if you get 1 drop of juice in the shorty it throws a error/F1 code on the VMAX,it has to stay clean and bone dry. Now the Fusion cartos IN MY OPINION have the PERFECT amount of filler, not too much that when you drip on top it kinda stays there and doesn't get to the very bottom,and not too little that it flies to the bottom and leaks out the bottom. It's right between the 510 BOGE and all Smoktech's for the most part. The short Fusion is great for tanks cause it has a small collar at the bottom that wont let the tank slide down. Now in a tank I found that 4-5 small holes in the right spots do wonderful. This is the closest setup I've ever had to straight dripping. The cartos last near 3 weeks in this setup. I always do a slightly bigger hole for the top hole then the rest are smaller as I work my way down. But both setups, 510 and fusion I've had NO leaking,NO flooding at all. Not even a little bit ever. I'm working on some diagrams to display where and how big to do holes on these cartos for people who would like to atleast try it. I waiting on my 801 Fusion XL's to get here from electonicnicstix now so I can work on that carto also. I know some of this may sound a bit on the extreme side but I was tired of putting my cartos in a tank and the only time it would taste perfect is thru the initial 1st fill and only half way down the tank, so I did this knowing I could find a better way, and I think I did. Sorry this was so extensive, but maybe this will shed a little light on a few things other people noticed also. Take care everyone, if I can answer any questions further, feel free to PM me anytime. ...............J
=== 1st setup - Smoktech tank with clear tubing cut/shortened to fit a BOGE. CARTO: BOGE 801 Fusion 3.0 ohm
Thanks VAPNJ350. I have indeed noticed the terrible inconsisency in carto filler even between the cartos contained in the same box. Getting sick of trying to match juice viscosity to filler density. If you're saying one can get 3 weeks out of a carto with your hole punching method than it would be worth the effort for me. More to add to my 'buy next' list it seems.
What do you use to punch your cartos...saddle valve?
Oh and never be sorry about long posts that are obviously designed to save people the expense and frustrations of going through unnecessary learning curves. It's worth your time to write and ours to read.
What do you use to punch your cartos...saddle valve?
Oh and never be sorry about long posts that are obviously designed to save people the expense and frustrations of going through unnecessary learning curves. It's worth your time to write and ours to read.
I'm looking forward to the diagrams. I slot mine right now and might try adapting the concept. Thanks for sharing what you've found works best. There's still so much to learn to tune all the pieces to our liking!
Lots of great Carto/Tank info there thanks for that !! I use the standard boge 3ohm in my tank and make a couple of holes (perhaps I will try a few more ? ) I do find that after about a week the flavor does drop off quite a bit (I use citrus fruit flavors so that may be why ?) !!!!
Looks a good deal for you guys in the US/Canada ;o) is there any pics you can show of these new Models ?? will the Blue LED be released to the market in due course ? would love to see a pic of that one 
Looks a good deal for you guys in the US/Canada ;o) is there any pics you can show of these new Models ?? will the Blue LED be released to the market in due course ? would love to see a pic of that one
I will be receiving my Blue LED Version within the next 6 days I will post pics. Most likely do a video review as well =)
Ok I just did this one for these pics for you guys, it's not crystal clear but I'll try to get a better set uploaded soon for ya. And I DO NOT use a carto punch/saddle valve or anything that changes the tubular shape of the carto, I've found that in "some cases" they can cause leaking. They create a dimple and oval the tube. Putting a oval shaped tube inside a circle seal will leak.
These were taken on all 4 sides in 4 pics rotating it as I snapped em. And thats the cheap $10 dremel from harbor freight tools I use to make the holes with and the tip I used to do it with that comes with the dremel kit.
That is a set back imo... I don't want to use cheap batts; AW is an easily available and GOOD brand of battery.
With all the variables i'm reading about I hope there is some decent CS to go along with this mod.
Anybody post any factory warranty info?
lnteresting. I think you should sell your design to Boge and get them to do the drilling for us
Not having ever attempted this before, is there any danger here of metallic particles entering the 'suck' stream? Or do the drill shavings come off relatively clean?
Well I'm hoping that my AW IMR 18350's currently en route will fit but if it takes a SMALL dab of dialectric grease to get them in the cap I'm not in the least bit concerned about doing that. It's a non-conductive silicon lubricant that also has anti-corrosion properties. Can't see any harm in that but here's hoping even that wont be needed.
If it helps anyone one, I've measured the inside diameter of my battery cap with my micrometer. It's exactly 18.5mm.
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