Smoktech Vmax Owners - tips, tricks and quirks

[kurtus]

Kurtus.... As far as excepting new members go for it brotha, Freddie had me basically moderating the thread as I will continue to do so if you have no objections of course but that's really all the responsibility I can commit to at the moment, very demanding career with sometimes long hours. I try to check on the thread every night after work, dinner, etc.... to answer any questions directed to me or anything I can fill in the blanks with for our members. Let me know where you need me if at all, thanks Kurtus, and thanks for stepping up I just simply could not commit when Freddie asked me in good conscious knowing I could not give it the time and attention it not only needed but rightfully deserves. Thanks again K. ..........J

If you want to stay on board doing just what your doing I'd be very greatful of it. I will do my best with it but I have to admit this is very new to me having never run a group before so I'll do my best, I'm sure I'll be fine though when I see the layout and figure out some things that need to be included in it. Thanks bro I appreciate the backing man

 

[pwyll]

To my knowledge, via the Smoktech I spoke with, their are only "2" versions of the VMAX. V1 & V2. ...

The only problem I have with this post is that I can only like it once...

 

[billherbst]

To my knowledge, via the Smoktech I spoke with, their are only "2" versions of the VMAX. V1 & V2. Their are multiple finishes and more on the way, but only 2 Versions so far. The internal chipset and PWM has NOT been altered, changed, or re-tuned in any way since the V2. And their have been some members rumoring about the textured VMAX's in the very 1st "PROMO" pic about being released as a new "version" nothing could be further from the truth, sorry but it's just not happening. That was the very very 1st promotional picture Smoktech released for basically feedback and a "rough " idea and shape of what the VMAX to come "could" maybe look like. That being said, lets ALL try to separate ourselves from the other threads that serve up more mis-information than accurate and make very sure what were posting is extremely accurate and true and not just post just to post something. A lot of threads out there on ecf tend to get a lot of mis-information out there, theirs 1 thing I pride myself with about this thread...we've done pretty well, for the most part of keeping all the info here on this thread pretty accurate and on point. The very last thing I really care or want to see is a nice device like the VMAX get into this Lavatube and Stardust category with so many versions it's absolutely confusing to the buyer and more than half of allll the version hype is due to ecf members posting about a new "version" of a certain product all because they noticed on "1" of the products they received it must a new "version" 14 because it has a new little notch on it right here, which really wasn't a new anything, just a manufacturer flaw or burr, or defect. Then, low and behold they must go to ecf and post about this new version product they just got. Then the next person, then the next person etc.... now that same product that really only has 2 maybe 3 version or revisions has now 14 different versions and the 13 before the last are worthless. This post was originally intended to make sure the VMAX family was ALL on the same page so the correct info gets out there, but as you can tell, I may have taken it a bit further. But I honestly feel much better now that it's been said,or typed rather, and I know I'm NOT the only one who's thought this or feels the same way. I guess how many likes this post gets will tell me and everyone else where we all stand.

Thank you all for taking the time to read this and even more so, keeping this thread going and full of "accurate' information for the current members and those to come in the future. Take care all.....J

VAPNJ,

Your gripe is certainly well-founded and true. I also read a lot of the opposite, especially with the Lava/Vtube. That is to say, posts from people who seem to assume that all Vtubes are the same.

For instance, an L-Rider Chrome v2.0 Lambo is a fundamentally different creature from a Young-June Chrome v2.0. The former is a now-outdated VV with constant voltage and a constrained 2.5 amp limit that's fine as long as you don't use dual coils, which will result in rather severe "mystery-voltage-drop," while the latter has a 3.9 amp limit, PWM, single-button resistance checking/set voltage/battery remaining graphic, and is a heavy-duty vaping beast. Except for the red power button, however, they appear identical.

Also, vendors sometimes contribute the Tower of Babel. Why does ecigcharleston describe their re-branded "StarFire" Vtube as a "Knight-Rider" when it is, in reality, a Young-June version 1.5t? And why is madvapes calling the Vmax they sell a "Rev 4," for heaven's sake, when only two versions exist?

I find it easier to forgive (or at least sympathize with) our ignorance as end consumers than I do vendors' misinformation. Yes, I understand that vendors are people, too, and we all make mistakes, but come on, man. New vapers who are awash in the exploding marketplace of equipment have to go through a natural learning curve to know what's what, but vendors should be more careful to research the products they sell, rather than just parroting what some distributor sales rep told them in a five-minute phone call.

 

[opsguy]

I just want to thank all those members here on this thread for all their very helpful information and kindness.

I am thrilled to say that I have a Vmax on it's way to me this week. As soon as I get it I will come back here and report on how it works with various cartos, tanks, etc. I am looking forward to continuing to see great things in this thread.

Thanks again everyone.

 

[<---cop]

Just to clarify, the vendor is calling the ego vmax a "V4".
Not something that I decided to assign to it.

 

[dwcraig1]

Just want to add my 2 cents on Lavatube Ver 1, it is limited to 2.5 amps. So if you use a 1.5 ohm atty the voltage just simply drops not re-sets automatically as stated on various web sites. It will fire a 2.5 ohm dc quite well. According to to Ohm's Law calculator that I use my Vmax v2 @ 6 volts(if it is really 6) is 2 amp. I have tested LT v1 voltage with 2.5 ohm DC carto and it can attain 5.5 volts on the 6 volt setting. Situation has more to do with ohm rating as the device doesn't output more or less voltage whither single or dual coil as it only sees the resistance. I am not trying to get anything started here just want folks to know that LT ver 1 works quite well with higher resistance attachments as it can achieve close to 6 volts.

 

[muzichead]

Also, vendors sometimes contribute the Tower of Babel. Why does ecigcharleston describe their re-branded "StarFire" Vtube as a "Knight-Rider" when it is, in reality, a Young-June version 1.5t? And why is madvapes calling the Vmax they sell a "Rev 4," for heaven's sake, when only two versions exist

Its called marketing at its finest and is amazing how many people buy into that theory.... Some people have to have the, (as they think), "most recent thing" and aren't smart enough to research it themselves to realize what they are buying. It also is a money machine for some vendors that actually bank on the idea that they won't research it and buy it as being the new version or revision.

 

[donesmokin]

VAPNJ,

Your gripe is certainly well-founded and true. I also read a lot of the opposite, especially with the Lava/Vtube. That is to say, posts from people who seem to assume that all Vtubes are the same.

For instance, an L-Rider Chrome v2.0 Lambo is a fundamentally different creature from a Young-June Chrome v2.0. The former is a now-outdated VV with constant voltage and a constrained 2.5 amp limit that's fine as long as you don't use dual coils, which will result in rather severe "mystery-voltage-drop," while the latter has a 3.9 amp limit, PWM, single-button resistance checking/set voltage/battery remaining graphic, and is a heavy-duty vaping beast. Except for the red power button, however, they appear identical.

Also, vendors sometimes contribute the Tower of Babel. Why does ecigcharleston describe their re-branded "StarFire" Vtube as a "Knight-Rider" when it is, in reality, a Young-June version 1.5t? And why is madvapes calling the Vmax they sell a "Rev 4," for heaven's sake, when only two versions exist?

I find it easier to forgive (or at least sympathize with) our ignorance as end consumers than I do vendors' misinformation. Yes, I understand that vendors are people, too, and we all make mistakes, but come on, man. New vapers who are awash in the exploding marketplace of equipment have to go through a natural learning curve to know what's what, but vendors should be more careful to research the products they sell, rather than just parroting what some distributor sales rep told them in a five-minute phone call.

Guess I didn't see the Rev 4 part or they changed the description since I ordered @ Madvapes. Thanks to this thread I wouldn't have bought into that anyway. I just knew I wanted one no matter what version! Yes wanted not needed, also thanks to this thread...LOL!

 

[dwcraig1]

Ver 1 = first release
Ver 2 = fixed voltage
Ver 3 = stainless steel, changed button
?? Ver 4 = added Ego connector
Just my guess, maybe just version 1 and 2 with revisions because when they change anything on it they have to call it something.

 

[billherbst]

Having left a post earlier today decrying the amount of misinformation on the forums, I have some serious egg on my face. I discovered this evening that I've been guilty of that recently.

I've been repeating in posts the claim that the new Young-June Chrome v2.0 Vtube has a higher amp limit than the previous 1.5 and 1.5t Young-June Vtubes---specifically, 3.9 amps for the v2.0 versus 3.2 amps for the 1.5/1.5t. That claim had been "verified" by Andrew Watkins, owner of CrystalClearVaping, which sells the device, in a post he left some weeks ago on the CCV supplier thread.

Well, guess what? That has turned out to be just one more bogus claim repeated by vendors and posters on ECF.

ECF member Errol PM'd me with her test results on the Chrome v2.0. I just duplicated those results for myself with my unit.

Here's the skinny:

The amp limit of all versions of Young-June Vtubes is the same: 3.2 amps. Despite claims to the contrary, the amp limit of the new Chrome v2.0 device has not been increased.

My apologies for passing on incorrect information. I trusted someone who trusted someone else who was full of it, so to speak, and just plain wrong. The old cautionary adage, "Trust, but verify" comes to mind...

 

[bald_d]

The only problem I have with this post is that I can only like it once...

I am not one for building my post counts on forums - I prefer to just "Like" a cogent response rather than blathering on restating the previous points. However, I would like to weigh in on this topic.

In a previous life I was in sales for many years. Product differentiation is an important sales technique designed to "get the order". When the product differences are small or non-existent, it can quickly degenerate into another technique called "create confusion" like we saw with the LT series of products. When the manufacturer creates OEM versions for dealers and copy cat manufacturers appear, the differences will generally be in in style and features and in technical functioning.

Logically, we should have seen versions 1, 2, 3, etc. for each version by each separate manufacturer - to maintain some semblance of order. This is important to the purchaser because each manufacturers product will have it's own distinct advantages and weaknesses compared to the others. As the manufacturers leapfrog each other on features, and as new OEM "models" appear, true product differentiation disappears. The manufacturers are then tasked with creating a steady stream of "perceived" enhancements, and are satisfied with the random sales advantage this approach will generate.

I just don't see how we will be able to prevent this from happening, or effectively deal with evaluating all of the emerging data.

At the end of the day, we will likely need to decide on a manufacturer or perhaps more importantly, a dealer we prefer and trust - and proceed on that basis... Customer service will be the most important criteria.

 

[Phoenix07013]

For those of us that are still new to this vaping world, especially RAs, I've found Scott's video reviews to be very helpful and informative as to what it's like to have a Rebuildable atty
YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.

For example if you skip to 4:15 here

it shows what it takes to rebuild an atty, or set it up if you will

 

[Modnar]

Ver 1 = first release
Ver 2 = fixed voltage
Ver 3 = stainless steel, changed button
?? Ver 4 = added Ego connector
Just my guess, maybe just version 1 and 2 with revisions because when they change anything on it they have to call it something.

Nearly spot on.

Except there are grey, black and chrome version 3's too, not just stainless steel ones (If you wan't to be sure it's the 3 rd version just buy the stainless steel one though, because all the SS ones have the new button)

 

[Optimo]

I was riding my ATV yesterday and somehow my VMax sliped out of my pocket and the back wheel ran over it...this was on gravel while going about 40mph. It chiped a little tiny spot of paint off but other than that it's still flawless. VMax ftw!

 

[VAPNJ350]

Just want to add my 2 cents on Lavatube Ver 1, it is limited to 2.5 amps. So if you use a 1.5 ohm atty the voltage just simply drops not re-sets automatically as stated on various web sites. It will fire a 2.5 ohm dc quite well. According to to Ohm's Law calculator that I use my Vmax v2 @ 6 volts(if it is really 6) is 2 amp. I have tested LT v1 voltage with 2.5 ohm DC carto and it can attain 5.5 volts on the 6 volt setting. Situation has more to do with ohm rating as the device doesn't output more or less voltage whither single or dual coil as it only sees the resistance. I am not trying to get anything started here just want folks to know that LT ver 1 works quite well with higher resistance attachments as it can achieve close to 6 volts.

After 2 years of being in this and before Vari Voltage was even released (other than stacking 2, 3 volt batteries to get 6v) their was no "variable" voltage", the very 1st device that did have multiple voltage settings and is considered a "multi-volt" design was/is the 'fistpak". I have 4 of them, 3 of them I built myself to make them more efficient and give them an added 5.5 volt setting just for kicks. Now for my point. You ever notice what Ω (ohm) atomizers come in every V V device kit ? 3 & 3.2Ω, not 2Ω, not any DC's. Why? Mainly because a 3.0 or 3.2Ω atty is more efficient on a V V Device. And the Device can be used in it's entire range of voltages (for the most part), I think/feel 5.2v -6v is a little too much to ask of a 3.0Ω atty/carto but people do it. I just usually get a burnt taste at 5v on a 2.8-3.0Ω carto. All atty/cartos at 3.0Ω and up are/were made/designed for a VV Device. Just like LR (Low Resistance was "1st/Originally" made and designed for 3.7v devices to simulate a 5v vape, plus that's really all you could use them on anyway cause their were NO V V Devices at that time. Am I saying you can't use LR on a VV .....No way....people do and some prefer it and really like it. Is it ideal ? .....Not in "my opinion". It takes awaty from battery life and your voltage range is now limited and somewhat completely defeating the purpose of buying a V V Device in the 1st place.(my opinion again) A lot of new, "green" vapers are getting some mis-information it seems by thinking they should get the lowest resistance atty/carto then get a V V device and use the highest voltage they can with it to get the best vape, the most vapor, and the best throat hit. And then left wondering why every draw they take is "burnt". They burn up every carto/atty they use and then assume it's a bad batch or brand of cartos. Nothing could be further from the truth, they just had a less than desirable setup. Any VV Device with a 3 or 3.2Ω carto @ 4.3v is a VERY satisfying vape in flavor, vapor production, and TH. And keeps efficiency and "full" funtionality of the device with no limitations. DC's at 2.0Ω or higher are also a nice alternative with a V V Device "if" the Amperage limit is high enough to accommodate it. The LT V1, was a fairly decent unit with a 3 or 3.2Ω single coil atty/carto. As soon as you put a LR or DC on it the unit crashed to a whopping 3.52v underload no matter what voltage you had it set on. Thats not real good in my opinion....BUT it also came with 2, 3.2Ω atomizers which is what the unit was designed for, with those or cartos in the same ohm resistance the V1 LT performed as it was made to.....pretty well. That being said, their were an abundance of people who griped and complained about the LT V1 not being able to push DC's to a even halfway reasonable vape. I didn't disagree yet I might not have been as verbal and outspoken as others...but agreed none the less. ..................Then..........da da da daaaaaaaaaaaa!!!! Smoktech listened to all those complaints.........and started to put their engineers to work. 9 months later, give or take, THE VMAX WAS BORN. This device pushed DC's (which are made also by Smoktech) like no other device on the market to date. And with little to no drop in voltage underload. Where a lot of others failed miserably, the VMAX used a PWM tuning slope that is so mind boggling that from a $80 dollar to a $3400 dollar Oscilloscope couldn't really keep up with it. But the AVG Voltage was dead on. BUT....if you want to push a 1.5Ω Dual Coil at 3,4,5,or yes 6 VOLTS......Their is now a device that will do it without even a hickup, and it's called the Smoktech VMAX. Although I highly recommend using a 2.0 or 2.5Ω DC instead of the 1.5Ω but only because it's such a nice satisfying vape. I hope everyone enjoyed my ......whatever you want to call this......useless information maybe ????

Sorry it was so lengthy....I honestly meant it to be like 4 statements.......how does this happen.....lol .... Take care ALL !!!

 

[Optimo]

^ the best post on this thread I have read

I run my 1.5 ohm DC atomizers at 4.0-4.5 volts on the VMax taking short drags and getting massive plumes of vapor along side awesome flavor. I only get 1.5 ohm DC attys because I fount them super cheap....would rather have 2.0-3.0 ohm DC attys any day. 2.0-2.5 ohm DC attys work great at 4.5-6 volts. I've taken a 1.5 ohm DC atty to 6 volts just for ....s and giggles and it blew my head off. My sweet spot is about 12-15 watts as I don't like long drags...the shorter the better. I like to click my fire button down for 2-3 secs and blow out a massive plume without getting a dry/burnt hit. The VMax has been the only VV device that lets me accomplish this.

If you just want a consistent vape with long life though a 3.5-3.8 ohm single coil on the VMax around 5-6 volts lasts alot longer than one would think and it can still hit very hard...I chain vape hardcore and can get a full day to a day and a half off one charge.

As a side note even with a 1.5 ohm DC atty I can still get just about a full days vape time off a single set of AW IMR batts. BTW...my VMax is the version 1 "beast" and has stood up to everything and is still working flawless with no hiccups for months.

 

[VAPNJ350]

^ the best post on this thread I have read

I run my 1.5 ohm DC atomizers at 4.0 volts on the VMax taking short drags and getting massive plumes of vapor along side awesome flavor. 2.0-2.5 ohm DC attys work great at 4.5-6 volts. I've taken a 1.5 ohm DC atty to 6 volts just for ....s and giggles and it blew my head off. My sweet spot is about 12-15 watts as I don't like long drags...the shorter the better. I like to click my fire button down for 2-3 secs and blow out a massive plume without getting a dry/burnt hit. The VMax has been the only VV device that lets me accomplish this.

If you just want a consistent vape with long life though a 3.5-3.8 ohm single coil on the VMax around 5-6 volts lasts alot longer than one would think...I chain vape hardcore and can get a full day to a day and a half off one charge.

As a side note even with a 1.5 ohm DC atty I can still get just about a full days vape time off a single set of AW IMR batts. BTW...my VMax is the version 1 "beast" and has stood up to everything and is still working flawless with no hicups for months.

Thanks Opt,.......if you like the AW batteries, wait till you try the E'fest. These batteries are extreemely impressive. I never ever thought my AW's would become my "backup" batts. But they are. E'fest are crazy powerful, and tons of high amperage output. At 5 amps and up.....up to 10 amps the E'fest killed the AW's in my discharge tests. You should pick up a pair sometime and try em out.

 

[Optimo]

Thanks Opt,.......if you like the AW batteries, wait till you try the E'fest. These batteries are extreemely impressive. I never ever thought my AW's would become my "backup" batts. But they are. E'fest are crazy powerful, and tons of high amperage output. At 5 amps and up.....up to 10 amps the E'fest killed the AW's in my discharge tests. You should pick up a pair sometime and try em out.

Yeah, I seen all the tests you done on them...very surprising. I have a ton of AWs but when I need some new ones I will definitely get some E'fests to try out.

 

[dwcraig1]

Keep in mind that "if" someone is trying to use a 1.5 ohm DC carto on Vmax @ 6 volts, especially ver 1 they are likely to get pretty close to 24 watt and your juice might make a few chemical changes that you aren't expecting like a little toxic gas.

 

[dwcraig1]

I do use 1.5 ohm DC's, run them @ 6 volts on LT 1.5, 3 volts on Vmax v1 and 3.5 volts on SS Vmax. I use 3 ohm DCs on Vmax usually and the other night I screwed on the 1.5 DC on Vmax at 6 volts, sure didn't take long to figure something going on here.