VaperAlley has a nice Ego adapter with both inside and outside threads for $1.99
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Vaper Alley sells a nice Ego adapter with both inside and outside threads for $1.99 also Rick has some top and bottom Kanger clearomizers , I need to get all this as when I sold my LT v1 the other day I included a few extras
Edit: I didn't see my first post about Ego adapter so I did another.sorry
Edit: I didn't see my first post about Ego adapter so I did another.sorry
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I have a couple of 510 to ego adapters that was not the issue
Just thinking out side of box
eeek,my replacement Vmax is producing some horrid burnt electronic smells too....and I think the culprit is the DiD.
Still works flawlessly though,but I am concerned (for the record,all safety features still work,F1,etc...but what about the rest)
I stopped using the DiD on it and all is well,but if I chain vape say,a clockworks RTA@5v on it,I can smell it again when I remove the battery cap
Now is it the DiD or my 6 months old ultrafire XSL that does that,I am no expert.(got AW IMRs but I hate having to stress checking out if I dont overdischarge them)
Still works flawlessly though,but I am concerned (for the record,all safety features still work,F1,etc...but what about the rest)
I stopped using the DiD on it and all is well,but if I chain vape say,a clockworks RTA@5v on it,I can smell it again when I remove the battery cap
Now is it the DiD or my 6 months old ultrafire XSL that does that,I am no expert.(got AW IMRs but I hate having to stress checking out if I dont overdischarge them)
TEK, ya know it could be your juice and not the attys or vmax that is at issue. Can you tell me the exact makeup of one of your juices, flavoring type and any additives (like sweetener, dw, or alc) that you are using?? Maybe I can suggest something.
Many times burnt hits are a result of wicking issues from the juice being too thick. In your case using direct dripping wouldnt show this issue, but with things like the vivi nova or anythinv with a wick like ego-c's, or filler like boges.... all of which I use or have used also... the burned hits has been corrected by adjusting the viscosity of the juice.
Many times burnt hits are a result of wicking issues from the juice being too thick. In your case using direct dripping wouldnt show this issue, but with things like the vivi nova or anythinv with a wick like ego-c's, or filler like boges.... all of which I use or have used also... the burned hits has been corrected by adjusting the viscosity of the juice.
No,its pungent and stays whenever it gets hot;right now it doesnt smell unless I remove the cap
I burnt the wires up from pcb board to 510 connector a month ago on a LT 1.5 with a shorted atty, the vendor replaced it but what a smell that was as these were short little wires. It appeared that was the extent of damage. I had 2 days of warranty left.
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After reading about your hot smell, I chained vaped mine last night and took a smell and found nothing unusual.
Like I mentioned earlier,the DiD may be the culprit,who knows really.
Yeah,eventually I will contact the vendor about this...but I might wait for V2s
Yeah,eventually I will contact the vendor about this...but I might wait for V2s
Martin...When you used the DiD on your VMAX did you hear a unusual whinning sound in the VMAX ? Also what is and where is the Kayfun mini ...or whatever that is in your pick ? Just curious....TIA ........J
My car just ate my next vaping purchases in the form of a new battery, jealousy I guess
No,no nises at all
The kayfun mini is from Svoemesto;let me test it further before jumping on it though,its been less than 24hrs
Кайфун-мини v.1.0 ― SvoёMesto
Better pic
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I managed to kill my steel vmax - dropped it and the heaviness of the Fanis tank snapped the carto threads inside the atty connection - destroyed the threads trying to get it out.
I have a Chrome too but it's starting to fritz - ohm readings are jumping up and down and freshly charged batteries are reading incorrectly. Two charged AW's that read 4.20 on a Fluke multimeter each show up as 7.5 combined on the Vmax.
I also have a Nova knock off called a GS core - the 2.8 head burns at 3 volts and reads as 2.2, sometimes even 1.5ohm on the Vmax - fine on everything else, reads as 2.7ohm on the multimeter.
That's the second Vmax that I've owned which has a bad board.
I'm just going to buy a ProVari - I think it'll be cheaper and less hassle in the long run.
I couldn't vape at true lower voltages if I wanted to, the Vmax literally can't do it.
I have a Chrome too but it's starting to fritz - ohm readings are jumping up and down and freshly charged batteries are reading incorrectly. Two charged AW's that read 4.20 on a Fluke multimeter each show up as 7.5 combined on the Vmax.
I also have a Nova knock off called a GS core - the 2.8 head burns at 3 volts and reads as 2.2, sometimes even 1.5ohm on the Vmax - fine on everything else, reads as 2.7ohm on the multimeter.
That's the second Vmax that I've owned which has a bad board.
I'm just going to buy a ProVari - I think it'll be cheaper and less hassle in the long run.
I couldn't vape at true lower voltages if I wanted to, the Vmax literally can't do it.
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The steel one with the stripped socket can be repaired if you are up to it as the head can easily be knocked off, for me that was one of the selling points for the Vmax. With a little craftmanship a new 510 could be easily fitted, of coarse not everyone would want to try to tackle this but it would not take much. Provari is a good choice with a proven track record
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