nope
kat, check here: Recoiling The GS Air | E-Cigarette Forum
if you can find the right size for the airs you could safely follow that aniters
Snails - Response on Threads Part 7
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nope
kat, check here: Recoiling The GS Air | E-Cigarette Forum
if you can find the right size for the airs you could safely follow that aniters
Kat if you have a mini sub tank these are nice and you can put about any coil you want in there
$9.73 Replacement RBA Plus Coil Head for SUBTANK Mini Clearomizer (5-Pack) 5-pack - 0.3ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$9.73 Replacement RBA Plus Coil Head for SUBTANK Mini Clearomizer (5-Pack) 5-pack - 0.3ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
These are bent just for the Kanger mini sub
$5.08 Authentic KangerTech DIY Kit for RBA Rebuildable Atomizers - 60*48mm cotton (2pcs) + 0.5ohm coiled wires (20pcs) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$5.08 Authentic KangerTech DIY Kit for RBA Rebuildable Atomizers - 60*48mm cotton (2pcs) + 0.5ohm coiled wires (20pcs) at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
Yeah, nice 5-pack.
The box she purchased during that sale has one of those in it, along with cotton and some pre-made coils.
The box she purchased during that sale has one of those in it, along with cotton and some pre-made coils.
Ok, I will delve into this more tomorrow. Thank you ALL AGAIN, SO much, for all your advice and help. This looks more doable than I originally thought. You guys are ALL so AWESOME in dealing with my silly questions. 
Have a great night. Sleep well, pleasant dreams and a better tomorrow.
The idiots have started with the firecrackers and fireworks already. Maddy is sad!
Have a great night. Sleep well, pleasant dreams and a better tomorrow.
The idiots have started with the firecrackers and fireworks already. Maddy is sad!
cuz I don't habes any ub my owm moneys so we'll use herswhy are we all trying to spend kat's money?
There really aren't any silly questions KatOk, I will delve into this more tomorrow. Thank you ALL AGAIN, SO much, for all your advice and help. This looks more doable than I originally thought. You guys are ALL so AWESOME in dealing with my silly questions.
Have a great night. Sleep well, pleasant dreams and a better tomorrow.
The idiots have started with the firecrackers and fireworks already. Maddy is sad!
It is doable, just takes a little practice is all Good night
night, kat! and sweet dreams of premade coils!
i'll follow along before this crew puts ideas in my head!
goodnight and sweet dreams to all!
and sweet dreams of premade coils!i'll follow along before this crew puts ideas in my head!
goodnight and sweet dreams to all!
Basically, Kat, Here's a summary for when you get around to it:
1) Find that RBA deck thing pictured above in OBG's post. It's either installed in the tank already, or it's in the box next to a replacement head. It's easy to tell because you want the ROUND one, not the square replacement heads.
2) Take the top off, it unscrews. Also, dig out the little screwdriver in the bag and unscrew that screw on the side by one turn so you can take the barrel off to expose the deck.
3) Cut a strip of cotton in the long direction of the fibers, so you're not cutting across the fibers...you're cutting WITH them...make it about 1/4 inch wide.
4) Put one of the included coils into the deck, with one leg under each screw and tighten them down. Cut off excess. It should FLOAT just above the air-hole in the center.
5) Best to have needle-tip tweezers for this next step, but you put the barrel back on, at some point and have cotton plugging up the holes on the side of the barrel and going through the coil. You can either:
5A) Run the cotton through the hole->coil->other-hole so there's cotton sticking out on both sides...then trim off excess
OR
5B) Run the cotton through the coil, then pull the "rabbit ears" up and then put on the barrel. The use tweezers or something to mash the cotton inside such that it plugs the holes on the sides. It doesn't have to stick out much...it can be flush with the holes as long as it's very flush so it doesn't leak through. The juice has to WICK through, not run through.
6) If you went with the "wick sticks out the sides" option, trim off excess...you should only have about 1/4 inch sticking out at most. You don't want it getting caught in the threads of the tank/bottom connection.
If the tank leaks, it's because juice is leaking through those holes in the RBA deck and running out the air-intakes. Also possible you got some wick in the threads of the tank+bottom, but that's rare if you trimmed it properly, most likely it's the leaking-through-wick-holes thing.
Don't forget to tighten the side-screw well whenever it is you put the barrel in place.
Don't forget to wet the wick/cotton with some juice so that you don't burn it.
Don't forget to put the round top back on the barrel when you're happy with the look of the build and have weted the cotton.
Screw the RBA deck securely onto the bottom if it isn't there already. The sub-tank can be filled and then put the "bottom" on it. If there's any leaking around the bottom seam, just wipe it and ensure that it doesn't come back. Sometime people say they get a small amount of juice pressed out the seals when you tighten the tank up and consider it normal, but it shouldn't leak after that. If it does, it's the build...juice is leaking through the wick holes and into the RBA center and out the air holes.
Edit:
It's really pretty simple once you do it once or twice. There's video on youtube I think too, but I don't want to spend a lot of time reviewing them right now to find you a good one, so I wrote it up.
1) Find that RBA deck thing pictured above in OBG's post. It's either installed in the tank already, or it's in the box next to a replacement head. It's easy to tell because you want the ROUND one, not the square replacement heads.
2) Take the top off, it unscrews. Also, dig out the little screwdriver in the bag and unscrew that screw on the side by one turn so you can take the barrel off to expose the deck.
3) Cut a strip of cotton in the long direction of the fibers, so you're not cutting across the fibers...you're cutting WITH them...make it about 1/4 inch wide.
4) Put one of the included coils into the deck, with one leg under each screw and tighten them down. Cut off excess. It should FLOAT just above the air-hole in the center.
5) Best to have needle-tip tweezers for this next step, but you put the barrel back on, at some point and have cotton plugging up the holes on the side of the barrel and going through the coil. You can either:
5A) Run the cotton through the hole->coil->other-hole so there's cotton sticking out on both sides...then trim off excess
OR
5B) Run the cotton through the coil, then pull the "rabbit ears" up and then put on the barrel. The use tweezers or something to mash the cotton inside such that it plugs the holes on the sides. It doesn't have to stick out much...it can be flush with the holes as long as it's very flush so it doesn't leak through. The juice has to WICK through, not run through.
6) If you went with the "wick sticks out the sides" option, trim off excess...you should only have about 1/4 inch sticking out at most. You don't want it getting caught in the threads of the tank/bottom connection.
If the tank leaks, it's because juice is leaking through those holes in the RBA deck and running out the air-intakes. Also possible you got some wick in the threads of the tank+bottom, but that's rare if you trimmed it properly, most likely it's the leaking-through-wick-holes thing.
Don't forget to tighten the side-screw well whenever it is you put the barrel in place.
Don't forget to wet the wick/cotton with some juice so that you don't burn it.
Don't forget to put the round top back on the barrel when you're happy with the look of the build and have weted the cotton.
Screw the RBA deck securely onto the bottom if it isn't there already. The sub-tank can be filled and then put the "bottom" on it. If there's any leaking around the bottom seam, just wipe it and ensure that it doesn't come back. Sometime people say they get a small amount of juice pressed out the seals when you tighten the tank up and consider it normal, but it shouldn't leak after that. If it does, it's the build...juice is leaking through the wick holes and into the RBA center and out the air holes.
Edit:
It's really pretty simple once you do it once or twice. There's video on youtube I think too, but I don't want to spend a lot of time reviewing them right now to find you a good one, so I wrote it up.
Last edited:
It's all good. I liked the 5-pack.I got those also just wanted more spares so I can build in batches
Wish I had been able to order one of those during that sale. Good way to switch flavors, and wash the tank.
THAT I get. But in the videos... and the coils look just like that... andWith something like the cubis head, one leg goes through the side hole and you screw it in. The other leg goes through the bottom of the head through the rubber insulator. Then you insert the metal bottom which holds the wire against itself and the rubber. One leg then becomes the positive connection and one the negative
there is no RBA in sight... they mention positive and negative leads.
They do not become + or - until connected. :: shrug ::
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