I think so.....if the center post of the cart isn't making contact, then there won't be a any resistance between the positive and negative lead, because there's no circuit.
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This will tell you which "side" the problem is on.
It's like right or left hemisphere only top/bottom
It's like right or left hemisphere only top/bottom
The
I envisioned a custom 510 to 510 adapter with a center screw as the "bottom" of the tank (with housing). So 1 tank connector, 1 carto.
What's a cap?
What's a cap?
I probably don't have the terminology right
http://houseofhybrids.com/zenesis-ii-coming-soon/z2carto-hybrid
The Zenesis 2 is a tube with interchangeable bits. It has a top cap and bottom cap (that includes the switch) to close the tube. The positive connections are made with gold plated screws through the end caps. I got the new version with the carto tank.
I also got a top cap with just a 510 connection (the type of connector you'd use for a RBA). The gold screw goes through base of the cap to make the connection from the positive end of the battery to the center post of the atty. the outside edges are threaded to screw into the tube.
It works fine in the configuration with the plain 510 connection.
The carto tank base is a glorified version of the 510 connection. Again a gold screw goes through the base of the tank, and should make positive contact with the center post of the carto. The threads to connect to the tube are identical. The base of the tank is thicker so that the glass tank can be attached, and the 510 connection is very recessed .
I know i'm gonna have to take pictures.....
http://houseofhybrids.com/zenesis-ii-coming-soon/z2carto-hybrid
The Zenesis 2 is a tube with interchangeable bits. It has a top cap and bottom cap (that includes the switch) to close the tube. The positive connections are made with gold plated screws through the end caps. I got the new version with the carto tank.
I also got a top cap with just a 510 connection (the type of connector you'd use for a RBA). The gold screw goes through base of the cap to make the connection from the positive end of the battery to the center post of the atty. the outside edges are threaded to screw into the tube.
It works fine in the configuration with the plain 510 connection.
The carto tank base is a glorified version of the 510 connection. Again a gold screw goes through the base of the tank, and should make positive contact with the center post of the carto. The threads to connect to the tube are identical. The base of the tank is thicker so that the glass tank can be attached, and the 510 connection is very recessed .
I know i'm gonna have to take pictures.....
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yep, that's it
if you watched it you'll see that he screwed the carto into the bottom of the tank, and the bottom of the tank went directly onto the tube. The base of the tank is where i think my problem is. when i meter the screw head at the base of the tank and the threads of the base, i get megaohm resistance, with or without the carto.
if you watched it you'll see that he screwed the carto into the bottom of the tank, and the bottom of the tank went directly onto the tube. The base of the tank is where i think my problem is. when i meter the screw head at the base of the tank and the threads of the base, i get megaohm resistance, with or without the carto.
OK...
So basically, 16 Mega ohms is a no-good connection. You can get that kind of reading if there's very slight conductivity somehow...like a slightly dirty (skin oil?) insulator or something. 16 M may as well be open for our test.
The "cap" to me is the top cap where the drip tip goes. There could be connection there to ground (through a metal carto I suppose...although that should be insulated too). But shouldn't connect to positive at all. I'd expect the cap to read open.
P.S. I'd use a plastic (non metal) carto in stuff like that but I'm by no means an expert...I don't have one.
I don't care about the cap right at this moment. Just the carto. With this...is the "battery" side permanent? It doesn't come off. OH!
OK. So you'd have to test with the lead INSIDE the battery compartment? Or is that a "cap"?
So basically, 16 Mega ohms is a no-good connection. You can get that kind of reading if there's very slight conductivity somehow...like a slightly dirty (skin oil?) insulator or something. 16 M may as well be open for our test.
The "cap" to me is the top cap where the drip tip goes. There could be connection there to ground (through a metal carto I suppose...although that should be insulated too). But shouldn't connect to positive at all. I'd expect the cap to read open.
P.S. I'd use a plastic (non metal) carto in stuff like that but I'm by no means an expert...I don't have one.
I don't care about the cap right at this moment. Just the carto. With this...is the "battery" side permanent? It doesn't come off. OH!
OK. So you'd have to test with the lead INSIDE the battery compartment? Or is that a "cap"?
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yep, that's it
if you watched it you'll see that he screwed the carto into the bottom of the tank, and the bottom of the tank went directly onto the tube. The base of the tank is where i think my problem is. when i meter the screw head at the base of the tank and the threads of the base, i get megaohm resistance, with or without the carto.
Sounds like it's not connecting to the carto.
Eyeball the 510 standard "PV cap" with the carto "PV cap" and look at screw heights. Feel it with finger if you can. Different?
Not connecting to the carto is what i've been thinking. good to have that confirmed.
It's also good to know that the mega ohm reading in this context is pretty much the same as infinite resistance/no connection. I was wondering whether there might be a short, either electrically, or if the screw in the tank base was just cut a teensy bit too short to reach the center post of the carto.
I'm not sure what you're asking about the battery side..but the head of the screw makes contact with the positive post of the battery, and is not reversible. I don't have the tank itself attached right now. I've just been playing with the base of the tank and the carto. putting a plastic carto in the base does nothing. sigh.
I think i may end up putting a ticket in with the vendor, depending on whether some lovely night owl in the vendor subforum has a fix for me.
Thank you so much for walking me through this Atty
Especially since you've been doing it blind. It's helped me clarify my thinking and learning how to test the resistance is very helpful
(and now you can see why I'm not much help in writing your primer)
It's also good to know that the mega ohm reading in this context is pretty much the same as infinite resistance/no connection. I was wondering whether there might be a short, either electrically, or if the screw in the tank base was just cut a teensy bit too short to reach the center post of the carto.
I'm not sure what you're asking about the battery side..but the head of the screw makes contact with the positive post of the battery, and is not reversible. I don't have the tank itself attached right now. I've just been playing with the base of the tank and the carto. putting a plastic carto in the base does nothing. sigh.
I think i may end up putting a ticket in with the vendor, depending on whether some lovely night owl in the vendor subforum has a fix for me.
Thank you so much for walking me through this Atty
Especially since you've been doing it blind. It's helped me clarify my thinking and learning how to test the resistance is very helpful (and now you can see why I'm not much help in writing your primer)
They look nice CES. For that price, he could include an allen wrench.
You'd think. makes me think he doesn't want people to idly adjust thta particular screw. the others are all phillips head screws.
they look identical on the exterior. it's difficult to tell on the interior, since the carto connection is deeply recessed, but they look pretty much the same there on the interior too. .
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