Yeah, I did buy a roll of it as well. Bought some SS as well as Ni and Nichrome LOL
What did you think of the Dicodes wire??
RDA SnapDragon RDA
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Yeah, I did buy a roll of it as well. Bought some SS as well as Ni and Nichrome LOL
What did you think of the Dicodes wire??
It works fine for temp control. It's a bit thinner than I prefer and maybe a tad stiff, but not too hard to work with. I do prefer my Temco Ti wire though, its easier to work with, less expensive, and available in more sizes. Both provide very accurate temp control with TCRs in the 300s which is the optimal range for our mods.
Great - this info is gold! Much appreciated
This is a document about temp control from Dicodes you might like. http://www.dicodes.de/upload/Application Note for temperature controlled vaping_V2 16052015.pdf
It's pretty solid info, although I personally don't agree about the way they say to dry burn your coils using VW mode. I only dry burn my TC wire with a TC mod in a controlled way.
Of note, I did need to tighten up the screw for the 510 connector on the SnapDragon. Very important to have tight and clean connections for temp control. After reading the document it should make it clear how much even a small variation in the resistance (from a dirty or loose connection for instance) can cause large temperature inaccuracies. The lower your TCR the worse these inaccuracies become. Why SS316 while very popular is still the least accurate TC wire you can use.
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A similar thing with TC on the snappy, I found quite a few times that I have had to tighten my posts up a bit. They are fairly solid but are screwed in from the bottom (if you unscrew the base you can see one, you have to remove the plastic section to see the other), I tend to find every once in a while from tightening down and slacking off the screws in the top it can loosen the screws in the base enough to start throwing TC about a little. Particularly as I do use 316L and it is as you point out quite sensitive to stuff like that. It is something to keep an eye on and check out if you find your TC starts jumping around, pretty easy to sort.
So I just installed the velocity posts that I ordered from Coval Vapes in the US. Initial impressions are very favorable. Although I primarily do single coil builds since I'm mainly just using Ti coils these days, I'm still glad I purchased the posts.
Installing a simple spaced 2.75ID 26awg Ti coil was very easy and I didn't have to put any little bends in the wire to help with the positioning. With the coil on the jig, and the jig as close to the posts as I could make it, I tightened down the grub screws to secure the leads. With the leads tightened, I pulled the jig away from the posts towards the airhole and got a perfectly tight and positioned coil, very easy.
Installing the posts was straightforward enough, although I had to go back and fix a mistake because I didn't tighten down the negative post enough which really threw off the resistance. You really have to tighten these little flat head screws down and use quite a lot of force to make it snug. I would make sure your tools fit nice in tight in the screws slots before trying this because I can definitely see someone damaging a screw.
The grub screws are exactly the same as the original posts. I tested the post holes with some annealed Ti wire @ 26 and 28awg that is very soft. Tightening down the grub screws resulted in a very solid connection, and did not pinch and break the wire.
The posts feel like they take up a tad more room in the deck area, but the design does not appear to effect the juice well at all.
Overall a solid purchase.
Installing a simple spaced 2.75ID 26awg Ti coil was very easy and I didn't have to put any little bends in the wire to help with the positioning. With the coil on the jig, and the jig as close to the posts as I could make it, I tightened down the grub screws to secure the leads. With the leads tightened, I pulled the jig away from the posts towards the airhole and got a perfectly tight and positioned coil, very easy.
Installing the posts was straightforward enough, although I had to go back and fix a mistake because I didn't tighten down the negative post enough which really threw off the resistance. You really have to tighten these little flat head screws down and use quite a lot of force to make it snug. I would make sure your tools fit nice in tight in the screws slots before trying this because I can definitely see someone damaging a screw.
The grub screws are exactly the same as the original posts. I tested the post holes with some annealed Ti wire @ 26 and 28awg that is very soft. Tightening down the grub screws resulted in a very solid connection, and did not pinch and break the wire.
The posts feel like they take up a tad more room in the deck area, but the design does not appear to effect the juice well at all.
Overall a solid purchase.
Hi all, am hoping the brains trust can assist me 
I will preface this message my saying that I have no prior experience with a dripper ;-) I have however been using RTAs for 10 odd months and have no wicking or leaking issues with any of them (after a little early trial and error in the very beginning )
So my issue is that I seem to be getting some leaking on my snappy. It appears to be coming from the AFC, but I am not 100%.
It appears to well up under the atty so when I remove it there is a slick of juice on the 510 connector (flat surround)
I can't actually see leaking from the 510 pin though.
I have attached a couple of pics from a coil that has been getting a hammering LOL - this particular coil is just similar to what I often use in an RTA and my dripper is only 48 hours old, so I wanted to compare performance to a similar build to what I often use in an RTA.
1. The pics attached show more juice in the well as I was just setting it up to see if I could see where the leak came from.
2. The 510 pin was around 2mm proud of the thread when it arrived so I tightened so only around 0.5mm was out.
3. My coil is directly over the air flow... I think LOL
4. I basically wicked the same as Damian from "a bloody good vape' showed in his video
5. It doesn't seem to leak if I just drip a small amount on the cotton and have nothing in the well. Is the well to be used as a juice reservoir ????
6. My Snappy is a 1.5 and has B2 on the base (I am not silly enough to be using the BF pin ;-) )
Apart from this issue, which is alleviated when I just drip a little on the cotton, the flavour has been awesome from this test build.
So please forgive my dripper-noob questions and dodgy coil and pics. I hope I can get some guidance or advice .
Many thanks
I will preface this message my saying that I have no prior experience with a dripper ;-) I have however been using RTAs for 10 odd months and have no wicking or leaking issues with any of them (after a little early trial and error in the very beginning )
So my issue is that I seem to be getting some leaking on my snappy. It appears to be coming from the AFC, but I am not 100%.
It appears to well up under the atty so when I remove it there is a slick of juice on the 510 connector (flat surround)
I can't actually see leaking from the 510 pin though.
I have attached a couple of pics from a coil that has been getting a hammering LOL - this particular coil is just similar to what I often use in an RTA and my dripper is only 48 hours old, so I wanted to compare performance to a similar build to what I often use in an RTA.
1. The pics attached show more juice in the well as I was just setting it up to see if I could see where the leak came from.
2. The 510 pin was around 2mm proud of the thread when it arrived so I tightened so only around 0.5mm was out.
3. My coil is directly over the air flow... I think LOL
4. I basically wicked the same as Damian from "a bloody good vape' showed in his video
5. It doesn't seem to leak if I just drip a small amount on the cotton and have nothing in the well. Is the well to be used as a juice reservoir ????
6. My Snappy is a 1.5 and has B2 on the base (I am not silly enough to be using the BF pin ;-) )
Apart from this issue, which is alleviated when I just drip a little on the cotton, the flavour has been awesome from this test build.
So please forgive my dripper-noob questions and dodgy coil and pics. I hope I can get some guidance or advice .
Many thanks
Would it leak if you just filled the juice well and left it sitting unused on your mod? If so, I would disassemble and check your o-rings and fittings.
Once juice is below the deck it can certainly leak out from around the center pin. There is just the peak insulator and no o-ring right where the center pin pokes out of the bottom cap.
It is pretty easy to get juice into the airflow holes if you fill the juice well too full. You have to account for moving and tipping the mod a bit. 12 drips when I have to the top cap on is usually good for me (when the wick is already wet). I would try and keep your cotton off the flat area where the air hole is.
This may help:
Once juice is below the deck it can certainly leak out from around the center pin. There is just the peak insulator and no o-ring right where the center pin pokes out of the bottom cap.
It is pretty easy to get juice into the airflow holes if you fill the juice well too full. You have to account for moving and tipping the mod a bit. 12 drips when I have to the top cap on is usually good for me (when the wick is already wet). I would try and keep your cotton off the flat area where the air hole is.
This may help:
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Would it leak if you just filled the juice well and left it sitting unused on your mod? If so, I would disassemble and check your o-rings and fittings.
Once juice is below the deck it can certainly leak out from around the center pin. There is just the peak insulator and no o-ring right where the center pin pokes out of the bottom cap.
It is pretty easy to get juice into the airflow holes if you fill the juice well too full. You have to account for moving and tipping the mod a bit. 12 drips when I have to the top cap on is usually good for me (when the wick is already wet). I would try and keep your cotton off the flat area where the air hole is.
This may help:
Thanks very much for your detailed reply, I think you might have nailed it with the edge of the wick touching the edge where the air hole is.
I'm gunna build a new coil and try that before I strip it down
Thanks again, much appreciated!
Seems RabbiXX has it covered in general with quite a bit of detail. Only things I can think of are compared to your pics I generally don't drip near as much in there to avoid accidentally tipping it into the airflow. And if you are dripping in to the top rather than taking the cap off, try drip onto the posts as this will guide the liquid down. If you drip straight down the middle it often builds too much on the coil and then it drips down into the airflow below causing issues.Thanks very much for your detailed reply, I think you might have nailed it with the edge of the wick touching the edge where the air hole is.
I'm gunna build a new coil and try that before I strip it down
Thanks again, much appreciated!
Thanks for the tips mindriot
It seems to be all good now, I took it apart, re-wicked it and payed more care to the dripping near the afc - good idea dipping on the posts too!
Picked up one of these bad boys a couple of months ago and I'm loving it. The only minor issue for me also, are the stock posts, I find them a little 'fiddly' for me with dual coils. I'm waiting for the velocity style posts to come back into stock just to make things a little easier.
I recently got the velocity style posts in, they are pretty decent. They do make the build for dual a lot easier and even the single coil build a bit easier. Also they reduce the chamber even further
I did see quite recently somewhere (can't remember where) someone said on the standard posts they find it easier to make both coils out of one strand of wire so they stay in place while installing them. Not tried it myself as it was after I got the velocity ones in there but might be worth a shot if you are finding it tricky.
Thanks mindriot, but I think both coils on a continuous strand is outwith my skillset to be honest. I've noticed that Crème de Vape is getting them in shortly, I'll grab a set ASAP.I recently got the velocity style posts in, they are pretty decent. They do make the build for dual a lot easier and even the single coil build a bit easier. Also they reduce the chamber even further
I did see quite recently somewhere (can't remember where) someone said on the standard posts they find it easier to make both coils out of one strand of wire so they stay in place while installing them. Not tried it myself as it was after I got the velocity ones in there but might be worth a shot if you are finding it tricky.
A half hour or so has passed!
I've been sitting here thinking about your suggestion and your definitely onto something, never entered my thick skull to try coiling it that way. I tried a rough tester and once you get the distance between the two coils set right, it shouldn't be a problem on this style of post, brilliant idea - many thanks from a fellow Scotsman.
No problemThanks mindriot, but I think both coils on a continuous strand is outwith my skillset to be honest. I've noticed that Crème de Vape is getting them in shortly, I'll grab a set ASAP.
A half hour or so has passed!
I've been sitting here thinking about your suggestion and your definitely onto something, never entered my thick skull to try coiling it that way. I tried a rough tester and once you get the distance between the two coils set right, it shouldn't be a problem on this style of post, brilliant idea - many thanks from a fellow Scotsman.
when I seen it and realised how much sense it made I couldn't believe it hadn't occurred to me to try it either. Hopefully it makes your life easier till you get some velocity posts.
Hi mindriot, I finally tore out my build on the snappy and made an attempt at your suggestion. First try, ended up in the bin as you might expect, so I took my time with the next bash at it and it worked a treat. It's certainly not as easy as the velocity posts, but perfectly do-able. Might just keep the original posts now.I recently got the velocity style posts in, they are pretty decent. They do make the build for dual a lot easier and even the single coil build a bit easier. Also they reduce the chamber even further
I did see quite recently somewhere (can't remember where) someone said on the standard posts they find it easier to make both coils out of one strand of wire so they stay in place while installing them. Not tried it myself as it was after I got the velocity ones in there but might be worth a shot if you are finding it tricky.
Cheers
I imagine that it would still be harder than the velocity style build, a bit tricky. I presume from your wording that you have managed to get the velocity style posts in? or are you just meaning compared to velocity style builds in general.
Myself I've kept my original posts to the side just in case but have been using the velocity style ones in dual and single since before I heard of this approach so not directly tried it out, it does seem like an easier way to overcome the difficulty but I'm inclined to think that it is an unnecessary problem to solve given they have but have not fully embraced the solution.
I haven't got hold of them yet and might not bother now, thanks to you. The velocity deck was a great little innovation that so many companies are using now, makes things so simple. Maybe Eden went with the different post style just for that reason, to come up with something different and not have people (reviewers initially) popping the top cap off and seeing yet another 'velocity style' deck, making the Snappy a unique and rather stylish little device. Very nice idea to have them as an option though.
Authentic Snapdragon v1.5 on the way 
Have a v1 clone (the better clone apparently) that I bought a year back. It's a good vape but the top cap is loose, the ohms have a habit of jumping around (510 screw often needs adjusting to suit the mod) and the screws are a bit difficult to tighten and untighten. Other than that it's been kind and enjoyable. Oh and I never was able to get the posts unscrewed to replace with the top wire slot posts that came with it.
What improvements can I expect?
Have a v1 clone (the better clone apparently) that I bought a year back. It's a good vape but the top cap is loose, the ohms have a habit of jumping around (510 screw often needs adjusting to suit the mod) and the screws are a bit difficult to tighten and untighten. Other than that it's been kind and enjoyable. Oh and I never was able to get the posts unscrewed to replace with the top wire slot posts that came with it.
What improvements can I expect?
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