So? Some information about closing the G-tread?

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Ariel_MX

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Maybe this could be useful to others, this is how I solve my "S" wire problems:

Parts needed:

1 lighter spring (a special spring could be used, adding some kind of fuse protection in case of shorts -like the GG fuse protection upgrade-)

1 piece of plastic tube (I took it from a cable cover)

== The lighter spring ==
(I trimmed the spring end and bent one end to allow it to enter in the little hole of the center brass pin)
2lc8yts.jpg



== The parts ==
5vt5ok.jpg


== Isolating 1==
(To prevent the spring to make contact with the bottom)
2f0evbd.jpg


== Isolating 2 ==
opu6ww.jpg


== Mounting the spring ==
352lrvq.jpg


== Closing the bottom cap 1 ==
6qjhub.jpg


== Closing the bottom cap 2 ==
11lsev8.jpg
[/QUOTE]
 
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asdaq

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Nice Ariel, it will also keep that small piece of brass from pushing up too far.

Ainiko, try by putting the SS part in a vice and grab the brass part (by hand) with something rubber to grip it better. If it feels like it needs tools to get it off, try pinching between two scraps of wood for added leverage.
 

Scubabatdan

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I think the problem starts when you switch the tank from mod to mod,
I have had no problems since I kept it on one mod

Correct, since the center pin and isolation bushing float, a change in depth of the batteries pos post can push the center pin back causing the S wire to be bent in. Subsequent uses on shallower batteries then the connection is not made. Cos prodded me into looking at a solid fix, and I have some M2 taps coming to manufacture a piece that replaces the center pin and S wire. It is similar to the setup the GTUS has. The pos post will screw into a modified plate connected to a new center pin that will not move. This will solve the connection problem permanently while allowing disassembly for cleaning without having to worry about connection issues. Will post pics when I get it made.
Dan
 
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raceengine

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Correct, since the center pin and isolation bushing float, a change in depth of the batteries pos post can push the center pin back causing the S wire to be bent in. Subsequent uses on shallower batteries then the connection is not made. Cos prodded me into looking at a solid fix, and I have some M2 taps coming to manufacture a piece that replaces the center pin and S wire. It is similar to the setup the GTUS has. The pos post will screw into a modified plate connected to a new center pin that will not move. This will solve the connection problem permanently while allowing disassembly for cleaning without having to worry about connection issues. Will post pics when I get it made.
Dan

can you help us g-tank users in distress? Being having problems with the s-wire lately and getting tired of opening it to fix the s-wire...
 

ainako

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Correct, since the center pin and isolation bushing float, a change in depth of the batteries pos post can push the center pin back causing the S wire to be bent in. Subsequent uses on shallower batteries then the connection is not made. Cos prodded me into looking at a solid fix, and I have some M2 taps coming to manufacture a piece that replaces the center pin and S wire. It is similar to the setup the GTUS has. The pos post will screw into a modified plate connected to a new center pin that will not move. This will solve the connection problem permanently while allowing disassembly for cleaning without having to worry about connection issues. Will post pics when I get it made.
Dan

BOO YAH! Dan to the rescue! sign me up for one of those!
 

Scubabatdan

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I hate to bother you Dan,but how does this differ from the current design?I thought the s-wire problem was solved and the new connection method was already solid. I probably need to go back and study the old pictures.

The current (GTUS) design does not remove the excess from the brass plate. This design basically is cut out from a circular plate on the top part.
Dan
 
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