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LOL not tooooo much:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-tank-mod-map-tank-gp-ssr-12.html#post3119671
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/atomizer-mods/181568-510-xl-ce2-ss400-wick-awesome.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...e-homemade-attys-genesis-326.html#post3141687
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ple-touch-switch-pass-thru-under-15-00-a.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-tank-mod-youll-see-today-26.html#post2972164
That should keep you busy...
Dan
Hey there Surf...you still lurking about!! lol
Yep...I have been keeping an eye on them when I get time...just been outdoors doing the harry homeowner springtime fun lately. Good work.
Nico, I'm always lurking, even when I look like I'm doing something productive!!!!!!!!
Excellent work, Dan, as always!
Someone else needs to post soon, it's starting to look like the Wiz thread
Excellent work, Dan, as always!
Someone else needs to post soon, it's starting to look like the Wiz thread
I guess I've been lucky
Even the one I burned up still worked. I used it till the 5 pack of new ones came in...now I have the one in my mini and 4 spares!The next tweak on mine will remove the need for any solder or sealant (though I'm still going to solder the ends on the lead wires and bttery terminal, but not on the switch).
Nico, I'm always lurking, even when I look like I'm doing something productive!!!!!!!!
Excellent work, Dan, as always!
Someone else needs to post soon, it's starting to look like the Wiz thread
Thats good...keep at it!
While I'm at it here is another thing I found that might help the modders...its not cheap but if 4 people go in on a half gallon you will have plenty for each. This is the best food safe silicone I have found yet...and I have bought plenty of them....no smell at all...tough...and fairly high heat tolerant.
AeroMarine Food Grade Silicone MoldMaking Rubber
@ Nicotime Don't feel alone I have been outside painting my house all day luckily I have shade trees all over...Ha! cant see my house from satellite even...looks like forest...
Well I may have finally got myself setup for mesh my neighbor is going to go to grainger and order me a small sheet...(I was actually hoping he had extra he owns a silkscreen shop) 4 days vs a week if ordered at storefront...
Well I may have finally got myself setup for mesh my neighbor is going to go to grainger and order me a small sheet...(I was actually hoping he had extra he owns a silkscreen shop) 4 days vs a week if ordered at storefront...
I ordered it from Amazon.de
1 Stewalin - Figurengiessmasse, EUR 5.25
Item Subtotal: EUR 5.25
Shipping costs: EUR 18.00
Total: EUR 23.25
USD 34.55 **
Clearly was not the most cost effective option. It was driving me nuts trying to find a suitable replacement for the Stewalin. Just moved this weekend and have not had a chance to mess with it.
Last time I checked I would pay EUR 15 for shipping, and I'm quite close. That Autocrete looks to be a good substitute, but maybe it isn't pourable so much as it is tacky like glue?? The resistance properties look good though.
Yeah its pourable...as long as you stay in the 12-16 parts water range you can make it like a putty or like a liquid to paint, dip or pour it on something. Its looks like the same thing that the CE2 ceramic cups are made of.
Gents, why don't you make your own ceramic?
I have (with great success) made my own with simple modelling clay and a small gas torch.
All I did was to flatten the clay, shape and torch for about 10 minutes.
Make sure you drill all the holes you want after initial torching (about 1 minute). When it becomes ceramic it is a drill bit killer - very very hard! You have to allow the clay to dry for about 3 hours after forming. Torch for 1 minute, drill all required holes, check size etc and continue torching for about 10 minutes. I used standard pottery clay.
Like this:
I have (with great success) made my own with simple modelling clay and a small gas torch.
All I did was to flatten the clay, shape and torch for about 10 minutes.
Make sure you drill all the holes you want after initial torching (about 1 minute). When it becomes ceramic it is a drill bit killer - very very hard! You have to allow the clay to dry for about 3 hours after forming. Torch for 1 minute, drill all required holes, check size etc and continue torching for about 10 minutes. I used standard pottery clay.
Like this:
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You can fool some of them l3oertjie...you just wish you had that much hair!
I would imagine that it would be just like an unglazed ceramic cup or tile.
Here is the Autocrete fired up.
Ha My hair gets like that once a year...then I cut it all off Maybe I should give it to one of those hair charities for Chemo patients to wear...
@l3oertjie how do you keep the ceramic from absorbing the liquid...everything I have ever made needed a glazing to repel fluids...(coffee mugs, bowls,a stout tankard
) so I haven't even thought of making caps from ceramic...
@l3oertjie how do you keep the ceramic from absorbing the liquid...everything I have ever made needed a glazing to repel fluids...(coffee mugs, bowls,a stout tankard
) so I haven't even thought of making caps from ceramic...
@l3oertjie how do you keep the ceramic from absorbing the liquid...everything I have ever made needed a glazing to repel fluids...(coffee mugs, bowls,a stout tankard
MadmanMacguyver, I don't worry too much about the absorption of the liquid into the ceramic to be quite honest. The first cup I made I sealed with superglue.... The ceramic absorbed the superglue quite nicely and then hardened to solid. After that I decided to try and use it without the superglue and although it absorbed the liquid a bit and discoloured, it still works pretty good.
So I guess you are using O-rings to seal...I don't see you getting the size perfect for the tubing...shrinkage inconsistencies and such...
Thank you for sharing the whole technology. Never tried to make a ceramic details. I have a lathe, anyway will take your info for spare
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