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I know what you mean about fiddling with ways to hold the wire...
Here is what I have been working on, finally got my 1mmID x 2mmOD x 5mmL springs in:
I have already tested the pull tension, it will hold a suspended pair of plyers no problem.
The wire is just pushed between the two beveled washes and the spring holds tension on it. Wow these are not wimpy springs at all 50lb tesion when fully compressed! only compressed it about 1/32" for this test.
Dan
Dan, those springs look awesome! So, in your opinion is this a viable "easy change" method for the kanthal connections? Also, I would really like to get ahold of some of those. Would you mind posting your source for the springs? Much appreciated as always!
Definatly a viable "easy change" system, here is the link:
Item # CAR-0206-0580-M, Compression Spring on Templeman, D.R., Co., The
Dan
Great! Thanks Dan. I am running out of excuses to try another attempt at a genesis mod.
@ scubabatdan Wow this needs to be part of the coop that's almost completely no muss no fuss...I tip my hat sir...
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Looks great Dan, you're getting steampunk points for this one
So the springs are real tight then? Do you just pull the kanthal between the two plates and it is cinched in there, i.e. you don't have to actually push the lower one down?
So the springs are real tight then? Do you just pull the kanthal between the two plates and it is cinched in there, i.e. you don't have to actually push the lower one down?
Yes very tight, and yes just pull/push the wire inbetween the bevels it slide right in, and no you dont have to push the bottom one down. Pops right in and holds very well!
Dan
Dan
While I think the springs are really really cool I don't know about them being a co-op item. There is quite some manufacturing detail there.
The posts need to be ... posts or very stiff leads.
Then there is the matter of securing the washer/discs on there. The top one has to be installed and the top of the post expanded to keep it from coming off.
The discs themselves have to be beveled to enable sliding the wire between them.
The bottom disk must be able to slide freely on the post. There will be gunk from just the juice residue an possibly oxidation of the leads or a reaction if different metals are used. Hole large enough to slide freely but tight enough that the spring doesn't wedge in there.
The bottom of the spring will need a "seat" that is insulated from the top cap. This will be harder to manufacture/insulate than just the leads through the cap.
There will be constant pressure applied to the lead.
And of course cost. components, machining and assembly.
Surely people could add that if they wanted as an "aftermarket" addtiion.
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Quick
Very good point. that will bring the cost up quite a bit. Im gonna order a few of these springs and see what else i need.
Very good point. that will bring the cost up quite a bit. Im gonna order a few of these springs and see what else i need.
agreed it would add cost...there are some people out there who might need it though...they might be able to consistently wire the coil but stabbing/wrapping the ends of the coil onto something may get rough after a time...maybe add a link to parts/instructions for the addition of the spring setup for those who cannot see as well as others...as once the spring setup is installed one fine detail of the atty setup is removed...I will definitely add it to mine...I have already saved the link...my eyes may be good now but I can't guarantee that in 5-10 years...hopefully something better would be out by then but then again maybe not...
@scubabatdan do let us know how they hold up under use...
@ the Coop chair or whomever counts....out of curiosity how far along is the Coop...
@scubabatdan do let us know how they hold up under use...
@ the Coop chair or whomever counts....out of curiosity how far along is the Coop...
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Here are the pics of my most recent rework on the hybrid mini. Been using it for a few days now and it's been absolutely flawless. The kanthal has not budged even a little bit and performance is about as good as I would imagine it could be. No fidgeting around with connections and everything is super solid. I can have it in the car with no worries whatsoever now (except for maybe a cop wondering what I'm smoking, lol).
The whole thing is now held firmly in place by 18-8 DIN 975 m2 stainless threaded rod. I'm using a mix of nylon and stainless washers and nuts to fasten everything. As you can see, no glue of any kind anywhere, no sealers needed in the switch housing and everything is dry as a bone.
The only solder is to attach the wire loop to the switch terminal so I could bolt it to the positive lead. This eliminates the need to stuff foam or rubber into the hosing to hold the switch in place.
The other solder joint is to attach the small bit of wire to the other switch lead so that there is no need to have the battery connector soldered on with that lead. It makes for more rom and absolutely no shorting even if you're a little rough with it.
You can see in the pick, I took a thin piece of clear rubber (snipped from a carto cap) and put it in between the 2 switch terminals to make sure there would never be a short in case I pushed the button too hard and made the lead bend.
I used nylon m2 bolts and washers to raise the positive terminal connection away from the negative connection on the housing to create clearance and to get the switch to the right height. then sandwiched the loop attached to the switch terminal between 2 ss bolts.
There are no nylon bolts/washers on the negative side to ensure a good solid connection between the negative terminal and the switch housing.
To seal the threaded rod going through the housing into the tank I put some heat shrink tubing on the threaded rod and shrunk it in place. Then I put the rods through the bottom body piece and cut it off right at the top of the housing. The heat shrink took up just enough space to make a liquid tight seal between he rod and the housing (tested to 20 psi once assembled and full of liquid for 30 minutes so I am sure it's going to hold since the pressure in the tank is only atmospheric under normal use and so pretty much negligible).
Once the extra heat shrink was cut away, I again used just the stainless washer and nut on the negative side and a few nylon washers then a stainless nut on the positive side to make sure the positive is completely isolated electrically from the housing.
Next I put some clear heat shrink on the threaded rods that were going to be in the tank, heated them on and put the tan and top cap in place. I trimmed the heat shrink off the rod at the top of the top cap and removed it, then I cut some nylon washers all around the edge so that they would fit on the threaded rods side by side and flush on the top cap, then secured those in place with nylon nuts so as not to be tempted to crank the tank down with too much pressure and prematurely crack it. ;-)
Last but definitely not least, 2 m2 stainless nuts on each terminal to hold the kanthal securely in place.
The leads are electrically isolated from the top cap so there is no chance of shorting the leads to the top cap. If the mesh is properly oxidized and you're using a good grade of kanthal, the coils should oxidize quickly and you should be enjoying Genesis with full performance and you Hybrid Mini should be maintenance free and really easy to take apart for cleanings. Of course the wire is bolted in place now so the connection is as solid as possible without solder and a snap to replace when it gets gummed up or when you mesh gets clogged up.
Hope you all get some good use and ideas from this mini tutorial. Happy
If someone is interested I can take pics of the entire build process and post them next time I go to clean tank.
The whole thing is now held firmly in place by 18-8 DIN 975 m2 stainless threaded rod. I'm using a mix of nylon and stainless washers and nuts to fasten everything. As you can see, no glue of any kind anywhere, no sealers needed in the switch housing and everything is dry as a bone.
The only solder is to attach the wire loop to the switch terminal so I could bolt it to the positive lead. This eliminates the need to stuff foam or rubber into the hosing to hold the switch in place.
The other solder joint is to attach the small bit of wire to the other switch lead so that there is no need to have the battery connector soldered on with that lead. It makes for more rom and absolutely no shorting even if you're a little rough with it.
You can see in the pick, I took a thin piece of clear rubber (snipped from a carto cap) and put it in between the 2 switch terminals to make sure there would never be a short in case I pushed the button too hard and made the lead bend.
I used nylon m2 bolts and washers to raise the positive terminal connection away from the negative connection on the housing to create clearance and to get the switch to the right height. then sandwiched the loop attached to the switch terminal between 2 ss bolts.
There are no nylon bolts/washers on the negative side to ensure a good solid connection between the negative terminal and the switch housing.
To seal the threaded rod going through the housing into the tank I put some heat shrink tubing on the threaded rod and shrunk it in place. Then I put the rods through the bottom body piece and cut it off right at the top of the housing. The heat shrink took up just enough space to make a liquid tight seal between he rod and the housing (tested to 20 psi once assembled and full of liquid for 30 minutes so I am sure it's going to hold since the pressure in the tank is only atmospheric under normal use and so pretty much negligible).
Once the extra heat shrink was cut away, I again used just the stainless washer and nut on the negative side and a few nylon washers then a stainless nut on the positive side to make sure the positive is completely isolated electrically from the housing.
Next I put some clear heat shrink on the threaded rods that were going to be in the tank, heated them on and put the tan and top cap in place. I trimmed the heat shrink off the rod at the top of the top cap and removed it, then I cut some nylon washers all around the edge so that they would fit on the threaded rods side by side and flush on the top cap, then secured those in place with nylon nuts so as not to be tempted to crank the tank down with too much pressure and prematurely crack it. ;-)
Last but definitely not least, 2 m2 stainless nuts on each terminal to hold the kanthal securely in place.
The leads are electrically isolated from the top cap so there is no chance of shorting the leads to the top cap. If the mesh is properly oxidized and you're using a good grade of kanthal, the coils should oxidize quickly and you should be enjoying Genesis with full performance and you Hybrid Mini should be maintenance free and really easy to take apart for cleanings. Of course the wire is bolted in place now so the connection is as solid as possible without solder and a snap to replace when it gets gummed up or when you mesh gets clogged up.
Hope you all get some good use and ideas from this mini tutorial. Happy
If someone is interested I can take pics of the entire build process and post them next time I go to clean tank.
Here are the pics of my most recent rework on the hybrid mini. Been using it for a few days now and it's been absolutely flawless. The kanthal has not budged even a little bit and performance is about as good as I would imagine it could be. No fidgeting around with connections and everything is super solid. I can have it in the car with no worries whatsoever now (except for maybe a cop wondering what I'm smoking, lol).
The whole thing is now held firmly in place by 18-8 DIN 975 m2 stainless threaded rod. I'm using a mix of nylon and stainless washers and nuts to fasten everything. As you can see, no glue of any kind anywhere, no sealers needed in the switch housing and everything is dry as a bone.
The only solder is to attach the wire loop to the switch terminal so I could bolt it to the positive lead. This eliminates the need to stuff foam or rubber into the hosing to hold the switch in place.
The other solder joint is to attach the small bit of wire to the other switch lead so that there is no need to have the battery connector soldered on with that lead. It makes for more rom and absolutely no shorting even if you're a little rough with it.
You can see in the pick, I took a thin piece of clear rubber (snipped from a carto cap) and put it in between the 2 switch terminals to make sure there would never be a short in case I pushed the button too hard and made the lead bend.
I used nylon m2 bolts and washers to raise the positive terminal connection away from the negative connection on the housing to create clearance and to get the switch to the right height. then sandwiched the loop attached to the switch terminal between 2 ss bolts.
There are no nylon bolts/washers on the negative side to ensure a good solid connection between the negative terminal and the switch housing.
To seal the threaded rod going through the housing into the tank I put some heat shrink tubing on the threaded rod and shrunk it in place. Then I put the rods through the bottom body piece and cut it off right at the top of the housing. The heat shrink took up just enough space to make a liquid tight seal between he rod and the housing (tested to 20 psi once assembled and full of liquid for 30 minutes so I am sure it's going to hold since the pressure in the tank is only atmospheric under normal use and so pretty much negligible).
Once the extra heat shrink was cut away, I again used just the stainless washer and nut on the negative side and a few nylon washers then a stainless nut on the positive side to make sure the positive is completely isolated electrically from the housing.
Next I put some clear heat shrink on the threaded rods that were going to be in the tank, heated them on and put the tan and top cap in place. I trimmed the heat shrink off the rod at the top of the top cap and removed it, then I cut some nylon washers all around the edge so that they would fit on the threaded rods side by side and flush on the top cap, then secured those in place with nylon nuts so as not to be tempted to crank the tank down with too much pressure and prematurely crack it. ;-)
Last but definitely not least, 2 m2 stainless nuts on each terminal to hold the kanthal securely in place.
The leads are electrically isolated from the top cap so there is no chance of shorting the leads to the top cap. If the mesh is properly oxidized and you're using a good grade of kanthal, the coils should oxidize quickly and you should be enjoying Genesis with full performance and you Hybrid Mini should be maintenance free and really easy to take apart for cleanings. Of course the wire is bolted in place now so the connection is as solid as possible without solder and a snap to replace when it gets gummed up or when you mesh gets clogged up.
Hope you all get some good use and ideas from this mini tutorial. Happy
View attachment 39045View attachment 39041View attachment 39042View attachment 39043View attachment 39044
If someone is interested I can take pics of the entire build process and post them next time I go to clean tank.
Yes please post pics. I would like to see it, and how you rolled the ss mesh and how tight and how much.
Scuba. Great Work with the spring setup! Are you sure your not a nanosculptor ? How did you isolate the positive post?
How did you isolate the positive post?- Status
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