Gummy had problems with large droplets and spatter. This way he can suck juice directly off the wick, won't even need a battery.
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Gummy had problems with large droplets and spatter. This way he can suck juice directly off the wick, won't even need a battery.
Gummy had problems with large droplets and spatter. This way he can suck juice directly off the wick, won't even need a battery.
Oh yea, I forgot about that part.
lol Did you have one of those curly cue drinking straws when you were a kid?
I like your idea. It would increase vapor production.
I like your idea. It would increase vapor production.
I don't know about increasing Production but it would concentrate it a lot. The thinking is that the expansion would take place in the lungs not so much the upper chamber. And remember I said this is just for an experiment to see what the result would be.
more than likely it would choke a mule. But would be fun to see.
Gummy, I've done a bit of something like this but not too extreme. The inlet hole is pointed at the coil directly and low on the coil, so not so much what you mean with the extra tube there. But with a small aluminum tube stuck inside the rubber carto stopper centered above the wick which focuses the airflow to ensure it maximizes vapor collection. It only is about 7mm long though as getting too close to the coil wouldn't be so esthetically pleasing and could interfere. I'm not sure it all makes a huge difference but it does work nice.
But can it choke a Gummy Bear? That is the question
I did something similar...i put a smaller guage needle in the cap so that the air was concentrated on the coil directly. Talk about expansion in the lungs....WHOAH NELLY!!! Throat hit was quite high, flavor was through the roof (the vapor comes out a bit cooler though) but exhaling more vapor than you thought you took in will almost certainly make most of us choke...the leftover tickles the back of your throat and if you're not expecting it, the coughing fit begins, lol.
Just a heads up for those brave enough to try ;-)
I had a similar idea for collecting the vapor. the only way I could see doing it is if you cut slats in the tube so it could go over the kanthal.
Thanks for the help scuba. That was an oversight. I was so glad to shave .125" of the total length I forgot about the engagement of the terminal. I will put the second O ring back in my design. 3/8" should be enough for the terminal to properly engage right?
Also an 11/32 drill should be right for the press fit? Maybe a little tight right? If I have to I will do that with machining and no drill.
I have 3/8" long set screws that I am trying to use so if I put them in .25" I only have .125" to put coil on. I don't think that is going to work. I will increase the bolt depth to .125" and that will be better but this is what I have to work with. I will be using epoxy and silicone to hold the positive post in place. so there is no dependence on the threads holding the set screw in.
My buddy doesn't believe his lathe will handle the O ring tolerances in my drawing. I don't know if adding the extra 16th of an inch between O rings will solve that problem. My guess is no. So I was looking at other machine shops and found one that charges 75$ an hour but at that rate I might as well buy a micro lathe. I was thinking about picking up a taig micro lathe 2. Any opinions on the unit?
Taig Tools - Desktop Milling Machines and Lathes.
Thanks
Thanks for the help scuba. That was an oversight. I was so glad to shave .125" of the total length I forgot about the engagement of the terminal. I will put the second O ring back in my design. 3/8" should be enough for the terminal to properly engage right?
Also an 11/32 drill should be right for the press fit? Maybe a little tight right? If I have to I will do that with machining and no drill.
I have 3/8" long set screws that I am trying to use so if I put them in .25" I only have .125" to put coil on. I don't think that is going to work. I will increase the bolt depth to .125" and that will be better but this is what I have to work with. I will be using epoxy and silicone to hold the positive post in place. so there is no dependence on the threads holding the set screw in.
My buddy doesn't believe his lathe will handle the O ring tolerances in my drawing. I don't know if adding the extra 16th of an inch between O rings will solve that problem. My guess is no. So I was looking at other machine shops and found one that charges 75$ an hour but at that rate I might as well buy a micro lathe. I was thinking about picking up a taig micro lathe 2. Any opinions on the unit?
Taig Tools - Desktop Milling Machines and Lathes.
Thanks
Has anyone heard anything about the harbor freight 7x12 lathe?
7" x 12" Mini Metal Lathe
Right now with the 20% of discount it is 480$ instead of 600$. I think that is a pretty good price.
They also have a 7x10(which is more realistically a 7x8) for 500$ which right now is 400$.
Any opinions? I have a harbor freight 8 miles from my house. I am so tempted to get one of these.
Thanks!
7" x 12" Mini Metal Lathe
Right now with the 20% of discount it is 480$ instead of 600$. I think that is a pretty good price.
They also have a 7x10(which is more realistically a 7x8) for 500$ which right now is 400$.
Any opinions? I have a harbor freight 8 miles from my house. I am so tempted to get one of these.
Thanks!
Apparently the smaller models are not able to cut SS although they are fine with plastics and aluminum...I could be wrong...I actually asked about the 7x10 a while back...on the other hand the Taag specifically says it CAN cut SS
This machine is what I have.
I like it, Never had any problems owned it for 2 years.
I've turned a ton of aluminum and brass, Stainless is doable. I'm just slowly learning proper tooling and style for SS.
Glad I could help, always good to have an extra set of eyes looking at it. I have not read any reviews on the Taig or the HF model you posted. The lathe I want hehe is this one:
CNC Lathe Model 1236 - lathe, lathes, turning machine, turning machines -
Video in action....
Dont think my wife will let me spend the $$ for it though
Dan
You can find a ton of info on the HF Lathe (and several other of the more low cost types) here:
Mini Lathe Reviews - be sure to look around a bit, lots of good info and links... I don't own a lathe yet, but I've spent about the last 20 years dreaming, reading and planning.
Mini Lathe Reviews - be sure to look around a bit, lots of good info and links... I don't own a lathe yet, but I've spent about the last 20 years dreaming, reading and planning.
I am actually talking to the guy from mini lathe reviews. He says out of the box the taig is more accurate but the 7x12 is a good machine too. The 7x12 I think is more versital but I am not sure what to get.
Anyone That knows please chime in. I'm making my own atty mod using a ss wick on a ce2 xl. I need to replace the 2 lead wires. I want to be sure I use the correct wire. It seems to be about 30 gauge and has a hard type insulator that seems would resist the fluid and heat. I'm pretty sure this is PTFE wire (Teflon coated) that can withstand 400f and resists any fluids that come in contact with it. It's rated for about 250v which is fine. More than enough. Not sure about amps.
Can anyone confirm the wiring. Is it PTFE. Is it 30 gauge. I compared it to another 30 gauge AWG and it seemed to match up fine. It fit through the ceramic cup holes.
Can anyone confirm the wiring. Is it PTFE. Is it 30 gauge. I compared it to another 30 gauge AWG and it seemed to match up fine. It fit through the ceramic cup holes.
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