Some homemade attys and genesis

[Akya2120]

I am a ceramicist and have thought about it. The problem is shrinkage with most clay bodies. If you buy a special clay body from laguna clay co or another clay supplier they can make minimal shrinkage clay bodies that work well. Also if you use certain clay bodies they will fully vitrify and then the clay wont absorb any liquids. Porcelain does this, but it also shrinks about 5-8% (also dependent on what porcelain clay body you are using). Your best bet would be to make mold and cast the pieces with a minimal shrinkage clay. That way all your pieces are pretty close to the right size. I still think machining would be easier. When I am done with my designs I will post them so anyone can have them and take them to a machinist. Is there anyone who know's the dimensions for a 510 connection? I might get really lucky here, does anyone have a 3d autocad drawing of the connector? If not, I might just use a 510 from a old atomizer for my genesis connection.

 

[cos]

Akya wish i could help you but dont have any autocad drawings. BTW i want to commend you on really thinking this out and putting it together. great job.

 

[l3oertjie]

I am a ceramicist and have thought about it. The problem is shrinkage with most clay bodies. If you buy a special clay body from laguna clay co or another clay supplier they can make minimal shrinkage clay bodies that work well. Also if you use certain clay bodies they will fully vitrify and then the clay wont absorb any liquids. Porcelain does this, but it also shrinks about 5-8% (also dependent on what porcelain clay body you are using). Your best bet would be to make mold and cast the pieces with a minimal shrinkage clay. That way all your pieces are pretty close to the right size. I still think machining would be easier. When I am done with my designs I will post them so anyone can have them and take them to a machinist. Is there anyone who know's the dimensions for a 510 connection? I might get really lucky here, does anyone have a 3d autocad drawing of the connector? If not, I might just use a 510 from a old atomizer for my genesis connection.

Akya - now you're talking!

I made my primitive ceramics with a torch, machined it a bit and epoxied it in position for a proper seal. It works fine. If you have the tools and means, your method will work great for fabricating on a larger scale. With regard to the 3D Autocad drawing, I have the means and software to assist - just tell me what you need - I can draw it for you. I don't use the 510 anymore - far too small. My atty's all fit onto the ego batteries and are the same diameter as the battery. I do use the same 510 screw connectors though. Explain to me how you want it to work. Central tube to draw air through or rather side vent holes on the cap? Show me the plans - I will model it for you in Autocad.

 

[MadmanMacguyver]

wow l3oertjie you are a man of many talents...what is your day job if you don't mind me asking? i've been sitting here trying to do a connector for him and keep banging my head into a wall (never learned autocad and have probs w math)

 

[l3oertjie]

wow l3oertjie you are a man of many talents...what is your day job if you don't mind me asking?

Mechanical engineer in the air-conditioning industry, but only from 9 - 5. After that mad scientist and amateur lathe operator.....

 

[l3oertjie]

Hey Asdaq,
Check it out, finally got my stock in. Was turnin on the lathe today...
Got the bottom part finished. A "Crossover" of a GEN and CE2, CAT5e connectors for the quick connect/disconnect, bottom air feed, coil in airflow, 2 paths for juice flow.
Have been using the prototype (Delrin version) with out fail for a couple days now.

Critiques welcomed!
I made this for use on a ProVari so I am not really concerned with the support cone for an Ego, sure I could have made one but I do not use an Ego, but any other suggestions etc are welcomed

Dan

Dan, first of all - Critique: SWEET MAN, Sweet!

Now, please do me a favour.

Experiment a bit with side ventilation openings. I have had great success eliminating the central bottom feed tube and replacing it with three to five holes on the side - covered with a rotating cap to close the vent holes when not in use. You can also use the cap to partially close the holes to adjust airflow to your liking. Something like this:

 

[Scubabatdan]

Dan, first of all - Critique: SWEET MAN, Sweet!

Now, please do me a favour.

Experiment a bit with side ventilation openings. I have had great success eliminating the central bottom feed tube and replacing it with three to five holes on the side - covered with a rotating cap to close the vent holes when not in use. You can also use the cap to partially close the holes to adjust airflow to your liking. Something like this:

Thanks!
Interesting, the toleance would have to be very close to the poly tube to ensure they air flow would be completely adjustable. and a deeper cup to keep juice in. but when rotated closed it should halp to make it "pocketable" with out leakage.

Will try a version that incoorporates this idea.
Thanks,
Dan

 

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I am a ceramicist and have thought about it. The problem is shrinkage with most clay bodies. If you buy a special clay body from laguna clay co or another clay supplier they can make minimal shrinkage clay bodies that work well. Also if you use certain clay bodies they will fully vitrify and then the clay wont absorb any liquids. Porcelain does this, but it also shrinks about 5-8% (also dependent on what porcelain clay body you are using). Your best bet would be to make mold and cast the pieces with a minimal shrinkage clay. That way all your pieces are pretty close to the right size. I still think machining would be easier. When I am done with my designs I will post them so anyone can have them and take them to a machinist. Is there anyone who know's the dimensions for a 510 connection? I might get really lucky here, does anyone have a 3d autocad drawing of the connector? If not, I might just use a 510 from a old atomizer for my genesis connection.

I drew up a 510 connection. Unfortunately; besides the actual threads and area used to connect the battery connection to the atty connection, every piece I have is different! I bought a few connectors from libertyflights and some from goodprophets. The darn diameters on the press fit section are up to .004 different from each other. Anyway, I'm just going to machine the pieces to fit the connectors since they shouldn't need to be replaced any time soon.

I thought as you did at first too, I wanted the CAD for the connectors, but everyone said I was better off buying them, so I did, and I agree. Goodprophets has the 510 connectors for 99 cents a piece. Not even worth messing with for that price.

As far as the shrink with ceramics. I use calculations to deal with shrink in plastic injection molds, PTFE molds, and patterns all the time. If the % stays pretty much the same it should be able to be compensated for right? For instance, if your shrink is 4% and your outside diameter that you want is 2.0, you would take 2 X 1.04 and actually mold your part at 2.08.

 

[BorisTheSpider]

Regarding the vent holes, what is the benefit of using five small ones versus one or two larger "slots"? It would allow adjustment from all the way open to totally closed and would only have one potential point of failure instead of five. In fact, if desired, you could flange the inner piece to fit into the slot, keeping it in place so that it doesn't stray or become hard to locate, or cause any undesired twisting of components.

Just a thought.

 

[Akya2120]

I drew up a 510 connection. Unfortunately; besides the actual threads and area used to connect the battery connection to the atty connection, every piece I have is different! I bought a few connectors from libertyflights and some from goodprophets. The darn diameters on the press fit section are up to .004 different from each other. Anyway, I'm just going to machine the pieces to fit the connectors since they shouldn't need to be replaced any time soon.

I thought as you did at first too, I wanted the CAD for the connectors, but everyone said I was better off buying them, so I did, and I agree. Goodprophets has the 510 connectors for 99 cents a piece. Not even worth messing with for that price.

As far as the shrink with ceramics. I use calculations to deal with shrink in plastic injection molds, PTFE molds, and patterns all the time. If the % stays pretty much the same it should be able to be compensated for right? For instance, if your shrink is 4% and your outside diameter that you want is 2.0, you would take 2 X 1.04 and actually mold your part at 2.08.

If you have a controlled shrinkage clay body yes. Typical ceramics I will come into contact with are a range of shrinkage, like say 8-12%, but this is for throwing on a pottery wheel. The kind of clay I use will fully vitrify at high fire temps(Cone 9, ~2300 degrees F) but does shrink without control. If you or anyone is going this route, go to the laguna clay co website. They have all sorts of clay bodies as well as stuff for special order.

I am using old connectors from atty's. Way way easier, If I run out of those I will order them.

 

[Quick1]

Regarding the vent holes, what is the benefit of using five small ones versus one or two larger "slots"? It would allow adjustment from all the way open to totally closed and would only have one potential point of failure instead of five.

How does a hole fail? and more of them would give you better reliability through redundant systems (although at the cost of some reduced capacity).

 

[l3oertjie]

Regarding the vent holes, what is the benefit of using five small ones versus one or two larger "slots"? It would allow adjustment from all the way open to totally closed and would only have one potential point of failure instead of five. In fact, if desired, you could flange the inner piece to fit into the slot, keeping it in place so that it doesn't stray or become hard to locate, or cause any undesired twisting of components.

Just a thought.

Boris, I found that with the classic bottom air feed system with a tube under the wick the fastest degradation of the coil and wicking material happened directly over the tube in the air stream. I decided to play around with the side vents and found that when the air flows over the wick from "all" directions it prolongs the life of the wick and clean taste dramatically. I agree with you regarding possible leakage through multiple holes vs. only one. At present I'm playing around with a three hole system - will let you know how it performs shortly. Even with the five hole cap, it is still possible to twist the cap so that all the holes are fully closed and I have not had any leakage whatsoever. It's a very nice and clean system to use. My reason for changing to three holes is noise - believe it or not! I'm trying to eliminate a hissing noise when drawing air through the holes.... The other benefit of this side vent system is off course consistency of draw pressure - it's always the same and you can regulate it to your own personal preference. I found that with an easier draw more vapour is produced and hence better TH and taste. I'm going to test Dan's bent stainless steel wick in this setup and see how it works. I have tested the genesis concept with the side vents and it works very nicely. I just didn't get enough TH with that system. Maybe Dan's solution will work better for me - surely hope so. In the mean time my silica rope wick works just fine! And it only takes me 3 minutes and 10 cents to change it to a brand new one....

Here's a picture of the genesis setup with the ceramic top. Note the decolourisation of the ceramic due to liquid infusion.

 

[BorisTheSpider]

How does a hole fail? and more of them would give you better reliability through redundant systems (although at the cost of some reduced capacity).

A hole fails by becoming stuck in one position or another. Or a hole can fail by being made outside of the very precise specifications it requires. Getting one hole that small is challenging. Getting five that are equally-spaced and all within a certain tolerance is unnecessarily maddening. I don't know that redundancy is needed for air flow, but a greater degree of control and customization could be attained by using one in lieu of five.

 

[slimest]

I have tested the genesis concept with the side vents and it works very nicely. I just didn't get enough TH with that system.

For stronger TH you may like a mesh wick with a bigger diameter and a thicker heating wire (even with the same heater resistance). Worked for me. Mesh width should be no more than 14-15-16 mm.

 

[lorderos33]

Just finished what I think will be the final rebuild on my hybrid mini. After much experimentation, I think I got it where I want it. There is almost no soldering used to put it together, and the switch is now bolted in place so no movement whatsoever. The kanthal connections are as solid as could possibly be done and the tank is now re-informed by the leads so it feels much more solid now. It's tough enough to pocket now, but there is still the issue of the button. A touch switch will take care of that though.

It is sealed mechanically so no need for any glues or sealers and can be taken apart at any time for cleaning or to replace a broken switch...though I have yet to have one break on me.

I'll post pics tomorrow. Let me know what you all think.

I was going to use what I learned with this to make a US spec genesis, but ended up coming up with a new Atty design all together so I think the US spec genesis will go on hold till I get a prototype of the new design built. At the very least, it should be interesting.

Happy modding guys and gals!!

I can't say too much about it yet because I may want to pull a patent on this one, but I'll keep you guys posted on any progress made.

 

[cos]

Lorderos
sounds really good. Keep us posted if you can. I can understand you not saying too much just in case you do want to patent but very interested to see your final product. really like the no glues or sealers part. taking apart the genisis is a real big plus, especially if its easy and you dont have to keep rebuilding when you take it apart. I like to flush out my Genisis every few tanks fulls and it can be a pain to do it so i just flush it out using a bigger syringe.
I wish you best of luck if you patent it. Would love to know how you connect your kanthal wire. i keep fiddling with many different ways to hold the kanthal wire but none i do work that good.
Keep up the great work.
Cos

 

[ooSTURMoo]

 

[cos]

ooSTURMoo
Thanks for the pictures.
The 1st picture shows what it is and i cant make it out. Is this a pill case?
Great pics Thanks for posting them

 

[ooSTURMoo]

LED for 3$

 

[ooSTURMoo]

With GG Slim