no not reversing that way look at a bottle with a dropper inside the liquid for example
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no not reversing that way look at a bottle with a dropper inside the liquid for example
Oh i see, He was working on that with a vortex like build.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/135786-some-homemade-attys-genesis-4.html#post3489536
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Ok so I made a genesis. I set it up with 32 gauge kanthal and 400 mesh. It is a stainless center piece with a polycarb tube. I need to find a good camera to take a picture. My cellphone pics just come out fuzzy. I have the wick oxidized, and I have about 2.3 ohms in 4 wraps. When I hit it I get a weird TH. Is there a wick that works better for a 60-40 VG PG blend? Or is the genesis mainly used with pg? I get ok vapor production, not amazing. Can anyone give me some advice on how to set it up for a smooth large vape cloud?
How do you setup your genesis?
Thanks.
How do you setup your genesis?
Thanks.
Can you describe "weird" TH?
2.3 ohms in 4 wraps sounds like you have some distance between the kanthal connectors and the wick. I do 4 wraps and get 1.7 ohms. That's a pretty big difference.
I have mine set up for the same. I use 100% VG and get very large volume as well as strong TH. How does it draw? and is the air hole lower on the cap? got pics?
If you've kinked or rolled your wick badly it would produce similar symptoms. What mesh are you using and what's the size of the square you're rolling up?
In the mean time try removing 1 wrap to get you just under 2 ohms and see what that's like.
The terminals are 1mm or less from the wick. I have two small holes drilled which was too airy of a draw so I covered one and placed the hole in the center of the wick. I use KBV e liquid. The throat hit is almost metallic. Is that from dry wick? I used a .078" drill bit which is about 2mm for the wick hole. It came out a little larger than .078 so I used a little bit more width probably 3/4" to maybe an inch. Tightly rolled with a small hole in the center. I oxidized the wick through the hole because I was getting tint sparks between the mesh and the kanthal. I used the willpro style with the center post as a negative terminal conductor.
Edit: I just checked the resistance again to be 1.9 ohms. May be a loose terminal?
Edit: I just checked the resistance again to be 1.9 ohms. May be a loose terminal?
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Having the air hole towards the bottom of the vapor chamber can help with volume sometimes but half way should be fine. It could just be your juice. It will taste different since there is no flavor from filler and other stuff in regular cartos. Did you oxidize the wick using the same juice? or no juice at all. Could be some taste from that which should go away quickly. You did wash/flush out any flux from soldering or glue that you might have used? The stainless and kanthal should impart zero tast.
I boiled the wick 3 times to remove machining oil. Then I heated the wick red hot, dipped it in water and dried it three times. It was kind of a burnt metal flavor. Should I boil the wick after I oxidize as well? Are you saying you heat the wick and dip it in VG to oxidize it? Do you also oxidize the kanthal?
At the moment it seems like there is a little less flavor from my e liquid. Is that because the typical atomizer gets saturated with the flavor?
I have the hole mid heating coil, should I move it lower? The only solder I used was on the positive terminal for the battery connection. When I get a decent camera I will take pictures and post the unit disassembled. I plan on making more and different models. This one isn't really developed. I have to make one that is easier to do maintinance on as well as fill. I am just stoked to have one, especially one I made myself.
At the moment it seems like there is a little less flavor from my e liquid. Is that because the typical atomizer gets saturated with the flavor?
I have the hole mid heating coil, should I move it lower? The only solder I used was on the positive terminal for the battery connection. When I get a decent camera I will take pictures and post the unit disassembled. I plan on making more and different models. This one isn't really developed. I have to make one that is easier to do maintinance on as well as fill. I am just stoked to have one, especially one I made myself.
When I oxidize my wicks I:
Roll them
Boil them for maybe 10 minutes
Use a "jet" style butane lighter. I get the portion of the wick that might contact the kanthal cherry red hot and let it cool a couple of seconds,
Put a drop or 2 of juice on it (it gets soaked in immediately) and light it on fire. Just hitting it with the lighter will cause the juice to catch on fire. It burns by itself for maybe 3 - 5 seconds before it goes out. I usually do this part twice.
I do not oxidize my kanthal.
No. It's all related to heat. Take a wrap of kanthal off. TH will increase, vapor will increase, flavor will decrease. Get it too hot and TH will overwhelm everything. Get it too cool and TH will decrease to nothing, vapor will drop off, and at some point flavor will as well.
How you roll your wicks can effect the above somewhat. Basically, if you're using 400 SS mesh, have it rolled fairly tightly to a 1.8 mm or larger diameter, and don't have it badly kinked it's going to have plenty of capacity to deliver more than enough juice.
Lower hole *might* help. The idea is that it's sort of like blowing on an ember. With a good air flow over the wick it can generate more vapor (providing you have sufficient heat on it). If the air hole is towards the top the air flow tends to go from the hole straight up the drip tip and the air isn't moving so much around the coil area. If you have it in the middle you should be fine.
Give it a little time. The wick will "season" a bit with the first ml or so of juice. If it gets crusted over with gunk after a few ml of juice then you're using lower heat (some prefer that). If the kanthal stays clear/clean then you're using more heat (I prefer that).
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Just finished my flashlight Genisis tank mod this weekend, and finally got it dialed in. First off I have to say thanks to ooSTURMoo for sharing it with me! Thing works awesome! only downside is the tank size...at around a ml...but i have built it in a way that I can swap out tanks so i just carry an extra with me.
I started with two mini LED keychain flashlights and took everything out leaving the tube and end caps. The tops were too wide, so I didnt use them. There was already a hole in the end cap for the button, so i just opened it up with a dremel until it was a tight fit for the atty connector (I used a connector from a TW 510 atty). the other end cap i cut off about 1/8th of an in above the threads leaving just enough to get your fingers on to tighten and loosen the cap. then i opened it up also with a dremel just enough for an 801 cart and tip to fit snug.
In the bottom, i soldered my silver wire to the atty connector for my pos/neg posts. Then I took a rubber tip from a Carto, and drilled two holes for my posts. Since I knew the mesh would get hot from the coil, I took apart an old CE2 for the ceramic cup. I broke of the raised edges of the cup for more room. I turned it upside down and put it through the center hole of the carto tip from the under side, and put a couple of drops of supper glue to hold it in place. The end of the ceramic that slides over the tube in a CE2 was the perfect size for the mesh to sit in. Then I filled the end cap with silicone, and slid the rubber tip with the ceramic cup in place making sure the silver wires were position in the drilled holes and not poking a new hole.
For the tank, i used another carto rubber tip to seal the cart resevoir. I wasnt going to glue it in to make the refilling easier, but the first time it pulled out when I was unscrewing the tube. So i added a little glue there too to hold it in place.
It took a little time messing with the wick to get the right size, but once everything was worked out it produces great vapor and flavor, just like we have come to expect from a Genisis.
Great little mod for a mini Genisis Tank. Would be better if it were metal, and had a way to add some o-rings to stop condensate from leaking past the plastic threads that dont fit too tighly together. STURMS original idea used the end of a syringe in the bottom, which would allow the condensate to collect and run back down to the wick. I just didnt have one at the time.
Thanks again ooSTURMoo!
works great!
I started with two mini LED keychain flashlights and took everything out leaving the tube and end caps. The tops were too wide, so I didnt use them. There was already a hole in the end cap for the button, so i just opened it up with a dremel until it was a tight fit for the atty connector (I used a connector from a TW 510 atty). the other end cap i cut off about 1/8th of an in above the threads leaving just enough to get your fingers on to tighten and loosen the cap. then i opened it up also with a dremel just enough for an 801 cart and tip to fit snug.
In the bottom, i soldered my silver wire to the atty connector for my pos/neg posts. Then I took a rubber tip from a Carto, and drilled two holes for my posts. Since I knew the mesh would get hot from the coil, I took apart an old CE2 for the ceramic cup. I broke of the raised edges of the cup for more room. I turned it upside down and put it through the center hole of the carto tip from the under side, and put a couple of drops of supper glue to hold it in place. The end of the ceramic that slides over the tube in a CE2 was the perfect size for the mesh to sit in. Then I filled the end cap with silicone, and slid the rubber tip with the ceramic cup in place making sure the silver wires were position in the drilled holes and not poking a new hole.
For the tank, i used another carto rubber tip to seal the cart resevoir. I wasnt going to glue it in to make the refilling easier, but the first time it pulled out when I was unscrewing the tube. So i added a little glue there too to hold it in place.
It took a little time messing with the wick to get the right size, but once everything was worked out it produces great vapor and flavor, just like we have come to expect from a Genisis.
Great little mod for a mini Genisis Tank. Would be better if it were metal, and had a way to add some o-rings to stop condensate from leaking past the plastic threads that dont fit too tighly together. STURMS original idea used the end of a syringe in the bottom, which would allow the condensate to collect and run back down to the wick. I just didnt have one at the time.
Thanks again ooSTURMoo!
works great!
I'm looking for a Stewalin alternative, too - did you find one? I'd thought maybe dental labstone might work, but I don't have the ability to test it, and nobody has offered to do that. 
As far as I've been able to determine, nobody has come up with a Stewalin alternative. There have been several suggestions posed, but then the co-op for SS parts kinda took over. I've been wondering about labstone - the laboratory stone like is used in dental labs. The safety info seems like it would work, but I've been hesitant to try labstone since none of the safety data i've found says anything about heat after it sets up (safety sheets say it creates heat during cure). There does need to be a safe casting material, that can be found in the US, so people can make a Genisis on the cheap.
I'm looking for a Stewalin alternative, too - did you find one? I'd thought maybe dental labstone might work, but I don't have the ability to test it, and nobody has offered to do that.
Premo! Sculpey Bake Shop has an oven-bake clay is designed to be kid safe. I played around with it, but it does have shrinkage which makes it hard to make precision peices.
For those looking for stewalin alternatives, 'jbs' did extensive tests here.
Other materials were discussed before that thread as well. Just do a 'stewalin' search on that thread.
Other materials were discussed before that thread as well. Just do a 'stewalin' search on that thread.
I asked this in another thread, but I may get better response here.
Anyone know what is the thread pitch/ size of screws are on the A2 coil connections?
I'm pondering a mod for it till I get my G-Tank, and need longer screws.
Thanks.
Anyone know what is the thread pitch/ size of screws are on the A2 coil connections?
I'm pondering a mod for it till I get my G-Tank, and need longer screws.
Thanks.
I don't remember who it was, and I tried to go back through this thread to find it, without success, but I remember one person was using modeling clay and firing it with a torch to make ceramic. with some success. Has anyone else tried this? Any luck?
It was l3oertjie That is doing that.
Through all my lurking. I dont recall anyone else doing this.
Nicotime did similar with http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...e-homemade-attys-genesis-334.html#post3167074
Jensb uses Stewlin.
Thats all I got, hope I helped a little
@
UA72riddle. You are using 2 if the white mouthpiece Carto plugs?
Are the base and resivor leaking?
Through all my lurking. I dont recall anyone else doing this.
Nicotime did similar with http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...e-homemade-attys-genesis-334.html#post3167074
Jensb uses Stewlin.
Thats all I got, hope I helped a little
@
UA72riddle. You are using 2 if the white mouthpiece Carto plugs?
Are the base and resivor leaking?
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