Thanks, just found a great link that goes into detail about everything you added lol
Sony 18650 vtc5 and charging
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Read it all carefully and ask questions here about anything you don't understand, Bowser... with mechanical mods... trial and error is NOT your friend...
Can you guys recommend a good meter that covers everything I need to measure and keep everything in check?
How much are you willing to spend... cause I'd recommend a Fluke! (But they're not cheap... nothing really good is...)
hah, something with a good reputation here thats pretty affordable/cheap but gets the job done.
Probably the easiest one would be a SMOK Omnitester.
A little more tricky to use, a digital multimeter covers all bases from measuring voltage and resistance, as well as troubleshooting shorts in the mod.
Keep in mind that this level of inexpensive meters will have a margin of error in precise readings.
I'LL probably get stoned for saying this , but harbor freight has a cheapo multimeter for like $5 or if you get the newsletter u can get a free one like every month I found mine reads spot on with my ohm meter and its fine for reading voltage, but I also figure in for a .1 margin of error on either. Id also recommend getting an ohm meter 101 vape has em for like $15 they are great as a building platform and easier to read ohm than a multimeter. Do lots of research and when you think you know it all read some more.
I jumped from a ego to a mech, but I seriously spent at least 40 hrs reading up on safety and correct use , not to mention all the time spent watching videos. Just always be cautious and check your builds and batterys like ten times before use. Even with non sub ohm builds a short could occur and cause venting or explosion and dealing with either isn't good. I've gotten regular car battery acid in my eye before that wasn't hot and it burned like hell, I couldnt imagine a hot venting battery and getting that all over myself.
Just like anything in life if you do your research and play it safe you probably be fine.
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I jumped from a ego to a mech, but I seriously spent at least 40 hrs reading up on safety and correct use , not to mention all the time spent watching videos. Just always be cautious and check your builds and batterys like ten times before use. Even with non sub ohm builds a short could occur and cause venting or explosion and dealing with either isn't good. I've gotten regular car battery acid in my eye before that wasn't hot and it burned like hell, I couldnt imagine a hot venting battery and getting that all over myself.
Just like anything in life if you do your research and play it safe you probably be fine.
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Thanks for the inputs. I'm assuming that going with a better multimeter rather than picking up both meters would be smarter. I mean, i'm sure subtracting 2 numbers can't be difficult to get your atomizer's ohm reading on a multimeter.
Just keep in mind that if you ever start going very sub-ohm (.2 or less 
) most standard multimeters only measure ohms in 0.X range... i.e. 0.2 could be anywhere from 0.15 to 0.24 a dedicated ohm meter will give you more precise readings (even though ALL meters have a margin of error)
) most standard multimeters only measure ohms in 0.X range... i.e. 0.2 could be anywhere from 0.15 to 0.24 a dedicated ohm meter will give you more precise readings (even though ALL meters have a margin of error)
I won't stone you. Measuring DC voltage is usually not too taxing and a variety of meters are capable of doing this quite well. I think the real difference comes in their ability to measure the resistance.
I purchased an Innova 3320 for myself and it checked it against the Flukes at work. The voltage was spot on and resistance was good down to 1.0 ohm (note: my meter only measures ohms to the tenths place). Since I'm not currently sub-ohming, that was $25 well spent. Oh, it also has audible continuity which is handy.
Harbor Freight meters are fine as long as the user knows and understands what it's telling them. The HF meter isn't an auto-ranging meter, so you have to interpret the results. There will be about .4 ohms of lead resistance to subtract and that's if you twist the plugs back and forth while to clean the connections touching the leads together to see when it bottoms out.
I'm waiting for someone to say that their sub ohm coil was .5 ohms on the meter, but it was really .1 ohms due to lead resistance.
I really hate that I had to turn in my Fluke 87 meter at retirement. My manager told me that all he needed was a working meter in the tool bag that had the company calibration sticker on it. I had an old Simpson digital at home that met the requirement, but couldn't find it at the time, so I gave back the Fluke. About 6 months later I found the Simpson upstairs in a drawer! It's still a good meter and it's auto-ranging.
I'm waiting for someone to say that their sub ohm coil was .5 ohms on the meter, but it was really .1 ohms due to lead resistance.
I really hate that I had to turn in my Fluke 87 meter at retirement. My manager told me that all he needed was a working meter in the tool bag that had the company calibration sticker on it. I had an old Simpson digital at home that met the requirement, but couldn't find it at the time, so I gave back the Fluke. About 6 months later I found the Simpson upstairs in a drawer! It's still a good meter and it's auto-ranging.
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Simpson makes an awesome meter... I still have an analog Simpson... the absolutely most accurate ohm meter I've ever used!
Is that wrong
Not planning to sub ohm, but still went with a safe battery.
the allure is to great... way too many people on here telling you to start building with 24 ga at 4 wraps pushing .19-.22 ohms....
take your time learn about it.... you learned to ride a bicycle first, then the Ninja 900 came later??
I don't think the one I have is available anymore... unless you find one at a yard sale/flea market/antique store... LOL... it's probably 30+ years old...
I found this one on amazon, but I'm not sure what the resolution is... (how low it will read)
http://www.amazon.com/Simpson-260-8...3125&sr=8-1&keywords=Analog+simpson+ohm+meter
They are pretty pricey though... usually upwards of $200
Of course, if you wanted to go nuts... Micro ohm meters do exist... this is a "cheap" one!
http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-High-...d=1409413542&sr=8-10&keywords=micro+ohm+meter
Thinking really hard about ordering one of these though! Decent digital milliohm meter for about $106
http://www.amazon.com/Vici-Vc480c-A...qid=1409415128&sr=8-1&keywords=milliohm+meter
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What's wrong with this one? It comes with free shipping!
http://www.mitchellinstrument.com/n...=froogle-hot&gclid=CPeJsfPMu8ACFaVZ7AodfikAVA
This is the model I have. Mine was branded by Simpson with our Company logo. The nice part about the design is that you can set it on top of a counter, a shelf, or a piece of equipment and the display is always facing you instead of pointing at the ceiling. It's auto-ranging, measures pulses, and has a bar graph below the digits in the display (so that you can see LF pulses or relative voltage in real time from a distance).
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Absolutely nothing wrong with that one! LOL
I had found one that was a bit more expensive than that one even... it hooked up to your computer and logged the results through LabView software...
This is the model I have. Mine was branded by Simpson with our Company logo. The nice part about the design is that you can set it on top of a counter, a shelf, or a piece of equipment and the display is always facing you instead of pointing at the ceiling. It's auto-ranging, measures pulses, and has a bar graph below the digits in the display (so that you can see LF pulses or relative voltage in real time from a distance).
That is pretty awesome! I could certainly put some mileage on that piece of equipment!!
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