SPRING? . . . . .. what spring?

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pdib

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I am going to try the fuse mod guys and probably the dechroming of the 510 connection but a bit nervous about the firing pin mod.

I will have a read back over the thread to refresh my memory and see what's involved.

Does anyone know how much v-drop the pin mod is worth ?

The pin mod was a 2 phase thing. Shape gained some, and brass gained some. Sheathing existing pin in brass gained 0.15V .. . . the shape gained another 0.05V. Total gain was .2V. (I didn't test this at multiple resistances . .. so, consider that to be a rough estimate)
 

Xobeloot

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Well... i'm late to this party. with no mod on a 4.2v battery at ~.7Ω, under load I am at 3.2v. With the brassed firing pin, I am at 3.6v, and with the pin + shimmed spring, I am at 3.8v

I slept for ~24hr after getting home, so no fuse mod from my end at this point, but I certainly give the brassed pin and shim the thumbs up!
 

Vapeaddikt

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Hey, so the 15amp fuse took about 1.3 sec. to blow. This might translate to some battery damage and a melted button. (I don't know for sure). the 10A fuse has worked great for anything I've thrown at it . . . . Low .4Ω coils, for ex. and (specifications-wise) it should run everything we need. I would run the 10s, and if I started building, say, .2Ω coils, and the fuse popped .. . .. then I'd look at 15s. BUT, .4Ω is pretty goddanged hot when you've got most of your voltage actually reaching the coil.

Sounds good pdib thanks. I pushed the envelope and did a .3Ω coil. It worked and vaped great w/ the 15amp fuse.

1 issue. I melted my button. Luckily not enough to cause serious damage which I quickly fixed. I'm gonna order a few spare buttons.

The battery had no heat the mod itself had no heat it just pushed too many watts through the top firing pin.

At work so I just removed a coil on the fly and its working fine. I'm gonna look at at fixing this issue w/ the derlin button. I still haven't modded the top bar like you did so I'm not sure if that would solve the issue but I don't think it will since its a heat issue w/ the Derlin button's heat capacity prior to melting. The Battery's fine....I only used the 15amp one because based on Ω's law online calculator if I started off pushing 4v @ .3 that would be 13amps give or take so I didn't wanna risk popping the 10amp fuse b/c of it. Now at least I'm aware of this limitation in the design as well.
 

super_X_drifter

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ynemuhaz.jpg


Here's mine. Definitely a keeper. That spare fuse in the grand is money. Mundy, like I said - money :)

And the fuse mod - Peter D - freakin off the chain. What a killer, simple idea. Note, it worked with no electrical tape inside on the back panel cause of the paint, but taking no chances of it wearing over time, I put some elect tape there.

Battery doesn't move at all. Tried a little self sticking rubber glass mount but was too stiff. Going commando on it and it's rocking.

Fantastic research, development and explanation pdib. You rock bro :)
 

supertrunker

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i mod it like this - epoxy resin glue and nickel rivet - read the pic as stage 1-2-3-4 from left to right. Finished pin on the right.

it'll short to your mod - uh huh! I wanted a firing button with a round profile since the pin makes an arc anyway, for better control. I prettied it with ceramic paint - but that's a waste of time.

never failed since.

buttonmod.jpg

T
 

pdib

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i mod it like this - epoxy resin glue and nickel rivet - read the pic as stage 1-2-3-4 from left to right. Finished pin on the right.

it'll short to your mod - uh huh! I wanted a firing button with a round profile since the pin makes an arc anyway, for better control. I prettied it with ceramic paint - but that's a waste of time.

never failed since.

View attachment 256335

T

Yeah, I've been thinking about your button lately, T. I might wanna try and copy you. I had forgotten how you attached it tho. Epoxy, you say. . .. . hmmm.
 
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