just realized (on account of I posted another drip tip) . . . . your posting in the wrong thread. And . . . . therefore . . .. disqualified. No Osterized drip tips for you!
- Status
just realized (on account of I posted another drip tip) . . . . your posting in the wrong thread. And . . . . therefore . . .. disqualified. No Osterized drip tips for you!
Not so! i cannot presume to know where you post your drip tips. This thread has to do with no springs and i see none so i'm cool!
T
T
in the blender McGuyvering thread. Why? Where do you post your drip tip? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
see? . . . . . .. . . . hole's in the middle on that one . . . . . (ya' poopy old brit!)
in the tradition of wrong-thread-posting . . ..
in the tradition of wrong-thread-posting . . ..
so my fellow REOnutz...
I just did a firing pin rebuild on my fuse block reo since it had a few MacGyvered bits in there and my rebuild bits arrived today...
My previous statement was a lie. I do have a teeeeeeeeeny tiny bit of melted delrin on my button
I just did a firing pin rebuild on my fuse block reo since it had a few MacGyvered bits in there and my rebuild bits arrived today...
My previous statement was a lie. I do have a teeeeeeeeeny tiny bit of melted delrin on my button
I've been using the reo with the dna a bit now and I tried to measure voltage drop, but I'm not even sure how I could. I metered the battery at 4.06V then I fired it and measured at the atty and got 5.07V, took me a second or so for me to register, duh... vv that's set to 20 watts with a 1.3 ohm coil (how do you type the ohm symbol?)
the screen displayed voltage under fire at 5.1V and it measured 5.07 actual at the atty. the dna measures voltage to the atty under fire and it seems pretty accurate I guess, it's reading and adjusting to maintain the actual targeted voltage
it's still not finished 100% but it's back to vapable and all most done, only it's held together with a few wraps of scotch tape I underestimated how much space I would need for the wiring , all the battery and atty wiring is 20 gage and I figured I could just tuck them in the corners but just not enough room to fully close it and I don't want to put too much pressure on anything so now I have to make a spacer to fill this void, overall this thing winds up being ~1/4" taller than a VV grand
it glows red when it's charging, can't see it in the shot but the whole screen glows too
it lives
that's set to 20 watts with a 1.3 ohm coil (how do you type the ohm symbol?)the screen displayed voltage under fire at 5.1V and it measured 5.07 actual at the atty. the dna measures voltage to the atty under fire and it seems pretty accurate I guess, it's reading and adjusting to maintain the actual targeted voltage
it's still not finished 100% but it's back to vapable and all most done, only it's held together with a few wraps of scotch tape
I underestimated how much space I would need for the wiring , all the battery and atty wiring is 20 gage and I figured I could just tuck them in the corners but just not enough room to fully close it and I don't want to put too much pressure on anything so now I have to make a spacer to fill this void, overall this thing winds up being ~1/4" taller than a VV grandit glows red when it's charging, can't see it in the shot but the whole screen glows too
it lives
^to type an Ω symbol on windows type alt 234 for OS X type option/alt z
Your mod skills are quite impressive
Your mod skills are quite impressive
Turbo,
You have done an awesome job with the DNA Reo.
If you want to do a finishing touch you should check out Mamu's screen frame.
It is available in many colors / & some metals.
I have a couple ordered for when I eventually find something unusual I want to make into a mod.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...dna20d-screen-frame-cradle-3.html#post9192283
Mamu's DNA20D Screen Cradle by bapgood on Shapeways
You have done an awesome job with the DNA Reo.
If you want to do a finishing touch you should check out Mamu's screen frame.
It is available in many colors / & some metals.
I have a couple ordered for when I eventually find something unusual I want to make into a mod.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...dna20d-screen-frame-cradle-3.html#post9192283
Mamu's DNA20D Screen Cradle by bapgood on Shapeways
thanks Alexander, but I did this thing in a way that my display will wind up completely flush and sealed with no bezel, jest a flush black window with no seem , I will fill that void with tinted clear resin and shave it flush to the face of the mod, don't think I'd rather have a raised plastic bezel tbh
see? . . . . . .. . . . hole's in the middle on that one . . . . . (ya' poopy old brit!)
in the tradition of wrong-thread-posting . . ..
Would that be.... BAMBOO??!!
Alright so I mentioned a while back that modeling clay might work... well.. here it is! I took a page from Xobe's Mcgyvering skills and did this with nothing more than a 1/16th drill bit in a dremel (because I don't have an actuall drill), hammer, pliers and an oven.
I started with two female spade connectors:
I took the plastic off, and hammered that end flat. I stuck the fuse into the female ends and bent the flat ends. The left leg flat end was bent down, and the right leg flat end was bent up. I then alligned whe left leg with where I wanted it to end up and drilled a hole for the screw to go in. Since i dont have any tap's that are that small I just used the bottom screw and some elbow grease to make the hole "threaded".
I bought some clay at the local Michaels, and i just started to cover the whole fuse/connectors making sure that the flat "plates" were exposed and would make contact. I never have done this before but it was surprisingly easy. Once I got the exact shape and I was able to test it, I put it (fuse and all) into the oven at 275 F for about an hour then turned off the oven and left it in there to cool over night. It works perfectly, and the best part is that there is no modification to the ATM blade fuse. So if it blows you just pull it out and pop a new one in.
I will do some testing later, but it works flawlessly and makes the REO feel even more solid.
I started with two female spade connectors:
I took the plastic off, and hammered that end flat. I stuck the fuse into the female ends and bent the flat ends. The left leg flat end was bent down, and the right leg flat end was bent up. I then alligned whe left leg with where I wanted it to end up and drilled a hole for the screw to go in. Since i dont have any tap's that are that small I just used the bottom screw and some elbow grease to make the hole "threaded".
I bought some clay at the local Michaels, and i just started to cover the whole fuse/connectors making sure that the flat "plates" were exposed and would make contact. I never have done this before but it was surprisingly easy. Once I got the exact shape and I was able to test it, I put it (fuse and all) into the oven at 275 F for about an hour then turned off the oven and left it in there to cool over night. It works perfectly, and the best part is that there is no modification to the ATM blade fuse. So if it blows you just pull it out and pop a new one in.
I will do some testing later, but it works flawlessly and makes the REO feel even more solid.
Attachments
Last edited:
Good stuff man! I had purchased a bit of fimo clay but my fat fingers didnt do well at sculpting it around the bits.
Yours came out far better than my clay attempt. Well done!
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
Yours came out far better than my clay attempt. Well done!
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
@SeaNap, thank you so much. I've been lazy about fuse modding my Reo, but your list of tools is *exactly* the list of tools I have available in my bachelor-esque apartment. Off to Michaels today!
I know I am late to this party.
My mosfet switch was acting up so I did a quick swap. This mod was too easy. Just a quick bend here and a quick bend there and tucked it under the spring plate... A couple of safety checks and vape away. The spring plate actually makes a nice securement point for the bottom leg. The slight bump up from screw hole (resting against the plastic) was just enough to level out the fuse.
Using a copper firing pin gave pretty good results on a .7ohm coil.
My mosfet switch was acting up so I did a quick swap. This mod was too easy.
Just a quick bend here and a quick bend there and tucked it under the spring plate... A couple of safety checks and vape away. The spring plate actually makes a nice securement point for the bottom leg. The slight bump up from screw hole (resting against the plastic) was just enough to level out the fuse.Using a copper firing pin gave pretty good results on a .7ohm coil.
- Status
