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I found some brass strips at lowes. They were like $3.00 for a pack of 4. I now have extras if I need to make another pin!! They are just a hair wider than the stock pin. It was super easy to make the firing pin. However, the brass is a tad bit to thick and wasn't "springy" enough. The pin ended up bending down. It worked great with flat tops but if you put in a nipple top, the REO just continued to fire. I really didn't want an automatic Reo. So I took the pin out and cut the pin down. Looking from the top, it's shaped like a V. I thought that by making the metal a little less wide, I could increase the "springyness" with out making the brass to soft. Works like a charm, flat top, nipple top, whatever.
So with the new pin and the fuse mod, measured the battery at 4.2 unloaded. 3.94 loaded. .5ohm micro coild. Wowza!!!!!
So with the new pin and the fuse mod, measured the battery at 4.2 unloaded. 3.94 loaded. .5ohm micro coild. Wowza!!!!!
I'm not sure of this; but I think that hammering the brass will harden it a bit; making it both a dash more thin and more springy/resilient.
i like to live on the edge, so i sent HRH out to get me a few piggy back connectors. She was going anyway to buy a crock pot. I showed her a picture of them, but i imagine that when she returns with bacon all is not lost.
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I'm back to my spring. The loose fuse has too many mis-fires for me. I don't know why.. the tabs of the fuse are not smashed they are bent out to hold the battery snug, but not performing well at all. Hmmm
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Are you using a screw into a piggy-back connector to tie it into the body? I noaloxed that the piggyback as well as the battery side of the fuse. I've only been running mine for two days but no problems here.
HRH returned yesterday with a new coffee table, a new crock pot, my car in tact and a box containing 9 different types of crimp sleeves, none of which are the right one!
If you want something done right......
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If you want something done right......
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Mine refuses to go on parts run for me. But has now started to tag along when I go and she's very enthusiastic. Somehow my quick part run turns into a much longer event and I always come home with stuff I didn't want or plan on getting. 
When going sub-ohm it's all about getting a good connection. I had a bent fuse type mod for about a week and I would get a similar type of intermittent connection problem. That was really just for proof of concept in my mind anyway. The bee, the monkey, and myself all have solid mounts to slide an unmodified fuse in and out. Pdib made his from richolite, Xobe made his from PTFE, and I made one from clay. All of ours screw into the base and have a very snug and secure fit. You may want to consider fabricating one of these types of mounts. With the exception of pdibs, Xobe and I used our McGyvering skills and build the mounts with common household tools (hammer dremel pliers). I'm sure there have been others that created a mount as well, those guys are just the ones I remembered.
If you can live with the spring for a month or two, another option is to wait for the actual sub ohm kit from Rob. He has placed the bulk order and said they will be ready in 4-8 weeks.
I am leaning towards the Mundy solution because it uses the existing screw and requires no sanding of my Reo. I have 3 grands, the raw one would be easiest. I will not rasp on my copper vein one anyway - so that leaves the black one, which is a milled down all-day work mod.
I just cannot over come this innate idleness i inherited! When i started sub-ohm builds, i'd melt firing pins (allied to my usual disregard for regular cleaning), so i just modified the firing button. I never really cared about v-drop - i just bought more batteries.
I'll give Rob's sub-ohm kit a blast because if it's as good as it looks then i will have a mod that lasts all day on a single battery. Close to being the first maintenance free mod. That really appeals to me!
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I just cannot over come this innate idleness i inherited! When i started sub-ohm builds, i'd melt firing pins (allied to my usual disregard for regular cleaning), so i just modified the firing button. I never really cared about v-drop - i just bought more batteries.
I'll give Rob's sub-ohm kit a blast because if it's as good as it looks then i will have a mod that lasts all day on a single battery. Close to being the first maintenance free mod. That really appeals to me!
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Armyofskittles I'm still using mine without any clip no prob's, I've not had intermittent connection, you have to bend the leg's so they sit as flat as you can get em, ofcourse if you don't and only have corners of the legs touching connection areas then no doubt you will get rocking and connection issues, you just need to manipulate the legs and also have it setup so you put the battery in first slide it up then slide in the fuse underneath, I have to give mine a little wiggle to get it in, but yeah it's really tight, if it's not then just prise the legs out a little with a screwdriver.
and my fuse go's in legs first
hey Supertrunker is there pictures of the subohm kit?
and my fuse go's in legs first
hey Supertrunker is there pictures of the subohm kit?
Not that i have seen - but Rob said yesterday that it would have a gold plated pin. If i can just stop HRH spending all my money in the meantime...
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Does the bottom screw of the Reo screw right into the hole of the piggy back connector without any modification to the connector?
Yep didn't sand it. Extremely easy, cheap, and trouble free. Between the brass feeler gauge pin and the fuse I am getting 0.16V drop with freshly charged AW 1600's and 0.8 ohm coils. And I verified twice (1st on purpose and 2nd by coil touching RM2 cap
) that the 10A fuse blows instantly.- Status
