Squape Reloaded Clone
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Clowns or clones ? Not making fun of you, but in this case "clown" is a really apt description
oh, yeah.
So why didn't the 4x1 o-ring work? Maybe that, and a flat head screw...then it would be more like a KFL pin.
I would have if it was available. If it's available in two weeks I will but from the sound of it production still isn't going to meet demand. And honestly, I am not sure it's really worth $170.
oh, yeah.
Because 4 is the inside diameter. So with the ring the outside diameter is 6.
I'm also feeling the authentic isn't worth $170. It is when you consider the design and ematal, but the vape isn't, IMO.
And I bet they sell out in 15 minutes.
Oh, and more like $200 with the W deck.
Its possible we could use the 4mm delrin and wrap it with electrical tape or something.
I have an idea but don't know if it will work yet. Will have to try it later today or tomorrow when I have the time.
Since the rubber insulators are soft & allow the 510 pin to move inside I agree with everyone that we need something rigid. I have a few of the old cartomizers (I think from V2) that have a hard cap on the top of it. I'm wondering if I file around it just enough to fit in the bottom base & then dremel out the center hole of the cap for the 510 pin it might work. Most of the old cartomizers have the softer rubber cap, but I know that a few boxes of mine came with that hard plastic cap.
Just thought I would toss this idea out to everyone just in case they have a few of those old carto's sitting around collecting dust.
Since the rubber insulators are soft & allow the 510 pin to move inside I agree with everyone that we need something rigid. I have a few of the old cartomizers (I think from V2) that have a hard cap on the top of it. I'm wondering if I file around it just enough to fit in the bottom base & then dremel out the center hole of the cap for the 510 pin it might work. Most of the old cartomizers have the softer rubber cap, but I know that a few boxes of mine came with that hard plastic cap.
Just thought I would toss this idea out to everyone just in case they have a few of those old carto's sitting around collecting dust.
I will try to buy the real deal when announced. But I am not going to f5 myself to death or make any extra special effort. If they are not willing or unable to meet demand... then they should be cloned into rethinking their business plan. I much prefer originals, but if the manufacturer keeps playing this low supply game, they are not really interested in serving their customers and that is not the type to company I like to support with my money. I will go buy the Aqua 2, which I just have AND IT IS ON IT'S WAY. No shortage of product, at least for me without having to put out extra effort.
I'm gonna go back to my original plan of using a 3/16" OD teflon o-ring and a flat head screw. There's a lip inside the 510 connector - I think if I can find something rigid that fits perfectly inside the 510 hole, it won't slide down past that lip. Then I'm gonna put orthodontic elastic around the plate to take away some of the lateral play (I'll let you know if I smell burning rubber
). So back to waiting for parts...I hate that all the RC stores closed down around here.I think that's the problem (or at least one of them): there's too much play on that plate that the 510 pin screws onto. From what I can tell after having taken the whole thing apart, that plate is supposed to be held in place laterally by the 510 pin (which itself has too much play), and vertically by the deck. So if that plate is nice and secure, then it would be easier to control the 510 pin. Fortifying that o-ring inside the base that secures the deck probably wouldn't hurt either (mine wiggled out pretty easily). When I push that plate all the way down, the pin, when flush with the 510 connector (not recessed), actually catches all of the threads (an extra mm would be nice though). So the trick is to keep that plate down and laterally in position.
What worries me now is how durable this nonconductive finish is. Cleaning it was a little scary. I'll probably never clean it again, if I get it up and running.
My stainless M3x16mm flathead machine screws will be in my hands by 9AM tomorrow. I have an assortment of o-rings and insulators on hand. Will post results.
Although, my double o-ringed 510 pin SqR has been flawless for over 24 hours, lol.
Although, my double o-ringed 510 pin SqR has been flawless for over 24 hours, lol.
Well you need to go for the record, I think Roxy made it 6 days, I only got 4 out of mine before mine needed a rebuild. I have to take it off my PV and that's all it took.
Repair kits are in the mail.
Repair kits are in the mail.
Yep, I made it 6 days
I do have to say atm its vaping the best it has yet with 3 o rings on the pin.
I do have to say atm its vaping the best it has yet with 3 o rings on the pin.
Thanks for the jinx! Not two minutes after I read this post the demon started rearing its ugly head again, lol. However, all l had to do was take the atty off, fiddle with the 510 a bit, and it's running properly again now.
So how is the vape while Chuckie is behaving ?
Well, if your juice didn't get burnt when Chuckie showed up, its pretty good. I would say the Rose has the best flavor of all my tanks with the Lemo in second place.
OK, so the Rose... is the Rose a version 1 or 2, or is there even versions of it? I might order my LEMO tomorrow just got to make sure I pay my bills first, I got another box mod when my clicky finger accidentally twitched while surfing the nets.
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