SS GTSS Button Getting Very Hot!

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inquisitorj

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Definitely a short somewhere. If you are using a the rethreader and a 901 to 510 adapter so you can use the catch tank it is probably the 901 to 510 adapter. The center post on those adapters are flat on one end and a smaller post on the other. If the flat side is on the 901 batt side of the adapter it shorts on the rethreader. At least that is what was happening to me. Try an adapter that has the flat side on the 510 atty side. This is what fixed it for me.
 

Para

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Definitely a short somewhere. If you are using a the rethreader and a 901 to 510 adapter so you can use the catch tank it is probably the 901 to 510 adapter. The center post on those adapters are flat on one end and a smaller post on the other. If the flat side is on the 901 batt side of the adapter it shorts on the rethreader. At least that is what was happening to me. Try an adapter that has the flat side on the 510 atty side. This is what fixed it for me.

Nice pickup on that; I just checked one I have and it is sure does. It's too wide so any side mov't produces a short.
 
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imeothanasis

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Nice discover inq. Also you can change the heads of the adapter's pin. Its easy to pull out and reverse it
Definitely a short somewhere. If you are using a the rethreader and a 901 to 510 adapter so you can use the catch tank it is probably the 901 to 510 adapter. The center post on those adapters are flat on one end and a smaller post on the other. If the flat side is on the 901 batt side of the adapter it shorts on the rethreader. At least that is what was happening to me. Try an adapter that has the flat side on the 510 atty side. This is what fixed it for me.
 
im not using any rethreader at the moment and not using the catch tank, just directly using the iatty with out the catch and air control thingy, how do you check if the atomizer is shorted?

im not 100% sure about this but i think its just the button, i think the heat being product is not having good contact or something, its like when your electric plug is loose it heats up? the battery is not heating up, and my iatty is working fine with other PV'S

do you think its the center post of the button that has loose connection or something, its working fine , its just the button heats up, and my pinky is starting to glow red hahahahaha

is thier a spring inside the button? how do you dismatle the button from the body? want to make sure i dont destroy it or mess it up, what to try to clean it up might be a weak connection thats making it hot
 

fright88

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I used this video the first time I puled my GGTS button apart
GG TS Magnetic Switch installation - YouTube

your button will be a bit different but the mechanics are the same. Use whatever method to remove from main body. (I use needle nose pliers and a cloth to keep from damaging.)

Turn lock ring all the way down to you can depress the button. If it is loose enough grab the button post and the button top and twist. If it isn't loose enough needle nose and cloth can be used also.
 

Cacique500

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Mine is getting hot occasionally, but I've noticed that when I change the batt out it goes away. (does this on all the batts I have). Maybe a physical sign that it's time to recharge the batt?

Edit: Ok, it was still getting hot with a "fresh" batt...changed the atty and now not noticing any heat...the "change the atty" experts were right... Love how I only seemed to notice it when I "thought" the battery was low...
 
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fright88

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I've never gone 6v on any of my GG's but the button will warm up a little bit but nothing major at 3.7v but the battery also warms up from use. So I would say some warming is normal a lot of warming not so much.

Do you have any normal atomizers or cartomizers you can test to see if they warm the button up? If so test that if not I would recommend making sure you have no shorts with a multimeter.
 
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fright88

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set your meter to check resistance then put one lead on the center pin coming out of the iatty connector and the other on the connector threads. It should read however many ohms you made the coil to. If it doesn't within +-.2 ohms you probably have a short. And yes as I understand it it should still produce vapor if you have a short especially if the short is caused by the coils touching.
 
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