yes after getting the button switch really hot i pulled out the battery to check as fast as i can, its just warm, bottom cap not even hot, batt to button like 25-30 x hotter concentrated on the top part
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yup im also lost why its the button only mainly getting hot, im think a loose connection or its just plain normal on the way the button is made, like when your car battery terminal is not tight enough it will heat up and eventually burn, or the next loose i can tihink of is the iatty connector againts the ggts push pin ,my 901-501 and 501-901 should be arriving today, i'll try that and will post observation when ive tested it out
got the 501-901 adapter and tried it, now its tolerable at 7.4v , the heat has improve alot from the button, guess it was poor contact when using the iatty directly with the ggts without any flat adapters , the push pin and the center post on the iatty both have grooves in it, maybe poor contact, but its still wierd that the button was the one heating up to much
the button still heats up , but not to the point that it could burn your skin, will observe again
thanks to everyone who has help
Imeo Great product you have here thanks
the button still heats up , but not to the point that it could burn your skin, will observe again
thanks to everyone who has help
Imeo Great product you have here thanks
Jl, I am very courious about this issue. If someday you deside to send it back to me to check it I would be glad
There has to be a short for the button to be heating. Is the positive post floating pin solid or is there a lot of side to side movement? Could you have lost one of the o-rings? Personally I would disassemble and clean everything and make sure that everything setup properly while referring to the wiki.
I would probably replace the spring in the button while I was at it, just to eliminate as many things as I could.
Good luck.
I would probably replace the spring in the button while I was at it, just to eliminate as many things as I could.
Good luck.
inquisitorj, the Wiki is down and has been a couple of weeks. Best to point him to the Manual which Imeo provided a link for and I also created another link to all of the Illustrations towards the end of the Wiki thread
is thier a o-ring inside the button? i didnt see any o-rings when i took it apart and yes thiers side to side movement but im not sure what you consider a lot, the unit can assembled already, and i think everything checks out as per assembly, but yes wiki is down
No but they are saying there might be a missing o ring in the floating post assemblyItem 3 in the illistration
i dont have that o-ring the fifth one in the picture, but i guess its not important right cause , # 4 is plastic wont short anything, do i need that?
That o-ring was in the Original TMF version and was decided that it was no longer needed in future versions.
I'll post this again on this thread. My button starts to get warm when my atties start to go. Every time my button starts to heat, I'll meter the atty and the resistance is usually around 1.1- 1.2. I use a lot of different atties, everytime its the atty.
When I got my first GGTS, button would get warm, checked, atty wasn't screwed in all the way. Lot of different things to cause it. I would meter the attys, some will even increase in resistance and cause the button to heat. Over stressing the batts can do this. I can really stress a batt the way I hit on the GGTS. It could also be the spring in the button. Finally, it could be the atty connection if your cranking it down too tight. Just some helpful ideas.
If your using adapters, those can cause it to heat- heres a link to what a bad adapter looks like vs. a good one
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/altsmoke/141595-new-hot-spring-ruined.html
When I got my first GGTS, button would get warm, checked, atty wasn't screwed in all the way. Lot of different things to cause it. I would meter the attys, some will even increase in resistance and cause the button to heat. Over stressing the batts can do this. I can really stress a batt the way I hit on the GGTS. It could also be the spring in the button. Finally, it could be the atty connection if your cranking it down too tight. Just some helpful ideas.
If your using adapters, those can cause it to heat- heres a link to what a bad adapter looks like vs. a good one
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/altsmoke/141595-new-hot-spring-ruined.html
I was having a minor issue with my button as well. I took the button apart and soaked the parts with electrical contact cleaner. After it dried, I lubricated all button parts including the spring with CRC 2-26. It's an electrical lube/protectant. It made a HUGE difference. It's not a product that you would want to use on all the parts of the GG....because it's not a "safe" product. You definately wouldn't want it to come in contact with any parts that may contaminate eliquid....but for the button internals it worked wonders!
i'll try the electrical contact cleaner later if i can find one here, all i did was rub it with tissue sort of buffing it hahahaha
Similar thing happened to me. I just got my SS GTSS earlier this month and the 1st thing I noticed was that the button was getting rather hot. Tried different attys, cartos, batteries, and it was still getting warm. I am no expert but I was kind of puzzled that the battery wasn't very warm but the button was piping hot. I lived with it for a week, then took it apart and put it back together again. Problem solved.
Problem Solved:
i was still thinking why my button is getting hot, tried to look for short, none
i was still thinking about loose connection, im really sure it will heat up when something is loose, and my main problem is the button.
so i disassembled the button again and used a sand paper and sanded the spring and also the bottom post , sanded the top part and bottom part of the spring and also the sides , till it was shiney and put it back on, now the button isnt heating up anymore even at 7.4v with a 2ohm iatty and vaping like mad
in not sure if it was the spring or the bottom post, or both, but i also think the spring was kinda dull already like its own oxidation thats perventing proper full contact, coz when you look at the button design , the springs is the key to proper connection for the current to pass thru, so i think sanding the springs top and bottom part made the button connect properly
i was still thinking why my button is getting hot, tried to look for short, none
i was still thinking about loose connection, im really sure it will heat up when something is loose, and my main problem is the button.
so i disassembled the button again and used a sand paper and sanded the spring and also the bottom post , sanded the top part and bottom part of the spring and also the sides , till it was shiney and put it back on, now the button isnt heating up anymore even at 7.4v with a 2ohm iatty and vaping like mad
in not sure if it was the spring or the bottom post, or both, but i also think the spring was kinda dull already like its own oxidation thats perventing proper full contact, coz when you look at the button design , the springs is the key to proper connection for the current to pass thru, so i think sanding the springs top and bottom part made the button connect properly
jlodvo, sorry for the no replies, been busy, but I figured that more knowledgeable folks would step in and help. I had a feeling something was bumping the resistance in the button itself. I was just trying to cover all the basic stuff first. I am very happy to hear that it is working well for you now!
Now enjoy your steam engine!
Now enjoy your steam engine!
update: after 2 days the button became super hot again, looked at the button spring and its all oxidize again
right now manage to find small springs from broken kids toys, they look so shiney like the non resistance wire or the ss ggts
found 3 diff diameters that would work and stack with each other, had to cut the lenght
drop 2 springs on the button one thats the same size on the inner button wall and one thinner one that would wrap around the center post, so far so good will update in a couple of days if the button gets hot again and if the chrome colored spring would oxidize, also change the bottom cap spring with this type of spring
and also notice the spring is thicker then the original that came with my ss ggts, hope this would give better connection
right now 2 thicker shiney chrome colored spring vs the previous thin gray colored spring
2 vs 1 would give more contact on the center post and body
thicker gauge would also handle current better
next if things gets oxidize again i'll have to put conductive grease, but prefer not to if not needed
right now manage to find small springs from broken kids toys, they look so shiney like the non resistance wire or the ss ggts
found 3 diff diameters that would work and stack with each other, had to cut the lenght
drop 2 springs on the button one thats the same size on the inner button wall and one thinner one that would wrap around the center post, so far so good will update in a couple of days if the button gets hot again and if the chrome colored spring would oxidize, also change the bottom cap spring with this type of spring
and also notice the spring is thicker then the original that came with my ss ggts, hope this would give better connection
right now 2 thicker shiney chrome colored spring vs the previous thin gray colored spring
2 vs 1 would give more contact on the center post and body
thicker gauge would also handle current better
next if things gets oxidize again i'll have to put conductive grease, but prefer not to if not needed
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