Strange DNA30 battery level behavior... anyone seen this?

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eda123

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Then I see no problems.

Like I said before, the dna board doesn't know what battery you are using. It just knows the battery internal resistance, including resistance of mod, and the voltage. If the voltage drops below the cutoff it will shut it down. Also resting voltage after cutoff means nothing. Take a battery with high IR, the resistance to current flow will cause the voltage to sag more under load where as one with a low IR will not sag as much. The only way to know if there is a problem is to fully charge the battery and then discharge until cutoff. Then put it on a hobby charger that display's the amount of mah put back in. My bet is nothing is wrong and you guy's are worried about nothing.

If I can't rely on the battery indicator and it shows me 0% them 50% then 10%, I'm not sure it's "nothing". That and he fact that my 650s last me as long as my 490s....
 

ambientech

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My day job is troubleshooting electrical circuits and the issue you are having simple. If the ZNA works fine with the 18490 the there is no problem with the dna board. The problem shows up when you switch to 18650 so that is where you look. Two things change when you use the 18650. That is the battery and the tube. It has to be either the battery or the tube connections. Voltage level fluctuations sound like intermittent high resistance. Bare metals oxidize which creates a thin film that is not conductive. You cannot see it at levels that can cause issues. Clean the threads and apply noalox and the issue should correct. My Provari builds oxidation on the threads and does the very same thing. Clean and apply noalox takes care of the issue for about a month then I have to do it again.
 

eda123

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Ahhhh!!! Great idea.

The only thing it can be is the ZNA doenst read 650's right for me... **OR*** the 18650 tube needs some lubin'!!! This is using a 650 tube from Zen which is a new zenkote option, "brushed gunmetal", and perhaps there are some issues with the tube or its threading.

Just spread a nice coat on the inner threads of the tube and we'll see what that does. Thanks for the idea!
 
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ambientech

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My hana v3 is doing the same thing it can't just be the mods to many people are having this issue with different style mods its something to do with the dna!

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

What wattage are u vaping at? If above 15 watts it is understandable for it to cut off at a resting 3.6-3.7v. It's called voltage sag under load. If it is the level indicator jumping around check to see if your particular battery is fitting tight in the holder.
 

ambientech

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well after noaloxing my Zna I have my 18490's lasting like they should , instead of them crapping out at 3.70 volts they go out at 3.40 volts
Zna owners noalox your threads !!

Thank you for posting this. As you can see I have been trying to tell people that this would fix their issue but they had already made up their mind it was the DNA board.

This is the very reason I hate the flashlight or battery holder design. With the current we pull from the batteries It causes issues like this and for those who don't understand they think something is broke. People demand user replaceable batteries so they are going to have to do some periodical maintenance. If I was to release a mod it would have batteries soldered in so that these kinds of issues don't happen.
 

eda123

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Just talked to Zen again.

They said DONT put Noalax on the ZNA. that is for aluminum connections ONLY. It will galvanize steel since it has zinc in it, and that is bad for conductivity.

He said use "No-Oxide" instead https://www.sourcetelsupply.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=131

and by the way, using Noalox did NOT help my issue when i tested it today. Given the above seems obvious.
 

ambientech

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Just talked to Zen again.

They said DONT put Noalax on the ZNA. that is for aluminum connections ONLY. It will galvanize steel since it has zinc in it, and that is bad for conductivity.

He said use "No-Oxide" instead https://www.sourcetelsupply.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=131

and by the way, using Noalox did NOT help my issue when i tested it today. Given the above seems obvious.

I use it on SS, aluminum, copper and brass. Works for me. No-Oxide is better but harder to find locally. SS contains a small amount of zinc so adding a small amount in liquid form won't hurt. I and many others have been using it on provari's for years no problem.
 
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ambientech

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Just passing along what the manufacturer stated. Im sure you CAN use Noalox, but if it can galvanize the contact point ill get NoOxide instead.

Here is what happens when you put Zinc (Noalox) on steel (ZNA):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

SS already has a small amount of zinc in it. Your wiki was of regular steel which it's properties are different. If your zen was in a corrosive environment I would worry but it isn't. If it is then The reaction can happen, but the zinc is sacrificial, meaning it is will dissolve, so as long as you maintain it the corrosion will never happen to the SS. Zen is a bright man but sometimes he goes too far.
 

ambientech

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So Noalox didnt work but this No-Oxide stuff does seem to do the trick!! I applied some, and NOW this seems to be behaving correctly. Fingers crossed, until i go through a few batteries and observe the same ill be cautiously optimistic.

:facepalm::facepalm:

I have been around the block enough times with Noalox and No-Oxide to call this post BS. If the No-Ox-Id worked the Noalox would have also. Hell Vaseline would have worked just as well as both. The only thing either has over Vaseline is they will last longer. It's not like your Zen has been in a corrosive environment for a prolonged time....
 
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