Stripped 510 in Authentic Hana

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Damnit Damnit damnit. Had an authentic Hana V3 for almost 2 months and it seems that the 510 connector threads are stripping. The atty wobbles and I found a small sliver of metal inside the 510 that looks like an eyelash. It's under the 90 day warranty, and I sent a message to Hana today but it's the weekend so I don't expect a response yet. I've talked to a few people on the forum who suggested getting a Fat Daddy replacement, but I'm afraid I will .... it up attempting to put it in, although I'm pretty crafty. Guess my question is will Hana put one of my choosing back in or if not, who will?


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Visus

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Make a new post and ask. Plenty modders have used the clone box from fasttech with the varitube and fatdaddy connector.
You will have to drill and maybe thread tap the box but will Hannas OEM board mounting allow to use those 510's IDK..
You will have to solder the positive wire not sure if case ground is used so you may have to solder both wires. Not difficult but
the wires may need slight extending so you can solder easier..

I have not done this enclosure mod but looking at it ya..
 

twgbonehead

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Lol. We love sex and pork fat. Is Hana difficult to deal with? Also is it something that I could do? I used to make my own guitar cables, so I can solder. I just don't know exactly what tools I need to get the Fat Daddy fastened to the Hana..

Ummmm..... At the same time?

And the easy way to get Fat Daddy fastened to Hana:












Tell him he's her brother.
 
Hey folks. Well, after 2 months of being extremely careful not to cross thread or over tighten anything, my worst fear has happened. Factory 510 is now stripped. Does anyone know if it is possible to put a Fat Daddy in the authentic Hana and if so, could you point me towards a pic tutorial on how to do it? Or some one on here that could do it for me for a price of course? You would think that shelling out $200 for a mod that they would actually put better components in it, but ... do I know.


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Title describes the problem. I also have a few questions. 1.) Is it possible to retrofit a Fat Daddy 510 into the Hana without interfereing with the board? If so, can someone out there post some photos of how you did it? 2.) Its under warranty, but I suppose they will put the same piece of .... back in it that stripped in less than 2 months. Anyone have experience with Hana in this? 3.) Would I be better off sending the Hana out with a Fat Daddy to a Mod shop to be repaired? Somebody chime in, cause this ..... is all I have. Don't have a trusty 2nd 3rd and 4th backup laying around the house.
 

wa9w00d

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As far as I know, the fastech enclosure is 1:1 with a hana, but I've never touched an auth. hana. You would need to at least get the board / display to "fold out" of the way so that a drill bit and tap could have clearance down into the area below the connector. It might just be digging the hot melt glue off, but it might require de-soldering. I'll post more in a sec.
 

xtwosm0kesx

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Yeah, I could borrow a press. Is the board position/buttons in the same place on a Fastech build as the authentic? If I had any idea of what I was in for, I could come much closer to deciding if I was capable of doing it. When you say "disassembling", exactly how much disassembling are you talking about?

They should be essentially identical.

Either way (FD or Varitub) you're going to have to drill and tap the hole, meaning unless youre ridiculously careful its going to be very hard to do with the board completely in place. Even if you manage to drill it without issue when you go to tap it you're going to have a high likelihood of getting metal shavings in the chip compartment/on the chip, which isn't ideal.

Depending on how Hana mounts their boards (glue or a cradle) and the length of the leads, you may be able to pull the chip out of the enclosure a bit while keeping the buttons/charger in place, then drip, tap it, and hook it up/reinstall the chip.
 

wa9w00d

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The display of the DNA 30 is kind if notorious for being fragile. The good part is I've heard that Evolv will fix it for a resonable fee.
Anyway, if you can clear the upper two thirds of the section below the connector, the process isn't too bad. Got to feed the dogs now, or beat them. maybe both. post more in a little while.
 

xtwosm0kesx

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Anybody wanna do it for me? Gimme a price. I don't know....sounds like its very, very easy to botch.

I'd do it for free if it wasn't a legit hana box...lol.

$20 FT boxes are fine if ya mess up, $185 boxes not so much!

Does Hana not offer any kind of warranty service (not that you want another crappy 510 installed), seems pretty ridiculous that a $250 mod that fails after 2 months isn't covered?

There also seem to be a few machine shops in your area, could always just give one of the smaller ones a call and describe what ya need done and get a quote.

It's simple (insanely so by machinist standards)so hopefully it really shouldn't cost much, i doubt it would take them more than 10mins. But you're still gonna have to pop the chip out a bit.

*EDIT* Actually i seem to remember recently seeing someone claiming that new Hanas were shipping with a proper springloaded connector, similar to FD/vari ones without the extra faceplate.
 
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wa9w00d

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Sorry, I wouldn't be able to do it for you myself. But if you go ahead with it, here is what I did to install it true.
The connectors are:
Varitube 510 connector is M10x0.5, hole is 9.5 mm (0.374016").
Fat Daddy 510 connector is M10x1.0. hole is 9 mm (0.354331").

A letter size bit closest to the required hole without going over should be selected.
You will also need a level, and a vise mounted on the table of that drill press.
And a scrap piece of aluminum to make a practice run on.

Use the level to check what the press table reads. It doesn't need to be level, but you need to know that, e.g., front to back is 1/2 bubble high in back, side to side is plumb, what ever the case may be.

Load your scrap in the vice, set the height so that you can chuck (and un-chuck) the bit without disturbing the workpiece. check that the surface of the scrap reads the same as the table. If not, adjust.

Once it's true to the table, drill your hole. Now remove power to the press, remove the bit, and chuck the tap. Lower the ram, and use your hand to start the tap. Once you have the tap well engaged, you can loosen the chuck and finish the job with a hand tap handle.
After tapping the scrap, check that your connector mounts flush and true.
If you are satisfied, use the same principle to work your piece, If it came out goobered, find another piece of scrap. Lather, rinse, repeat.
Hope this helps. If not you, then someone. :)
Wayne
 
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