Subtank RBA builds? show em!
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If I may make a suggestion to help better this (your) thread:
Why don't we all try and post a link to our coil builds in Steam Engine like this...
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
It's a pretty cool way of sharing build info!
I am using 24ga 6 wraps and get 0.6 ohms. this was more about the idea. wow people really over complicate every thing I went to the steam engine website... I prefer my multimeter
I think he means that he would rather build and test than build and rely on a website. Smart move!
Hmmmm, well to each his own. But I prefer to not build blindly... and hope I get a certain resistance. I always have a target in mind when I build; and I can achieve that many ways, using different AWG kanthal or different diameter coils. Steam Engine lets me do the planning stage and compare to other designs easily; it was built by vapers for vapers!
Want .8 ohms and have 26, 28, and 30 AWG, along with a handful of varying drillbits---plug them into S-E and see what will work. I especially like seeing the difference the diameter of your bit makes... Many (most) of the master coil builders here use, and rely on, S-E heavily.
I choose to follow those in the know, not those in the no!
Now that was funny D.
A multi-meter is not design. And testing validates configuration. Cart before the horse.
There are all levels here D. And most of us aren't engineers. Probably fewer who actually have any real manufacturing experience, less in a generalist sense.
A meter or website didn't make this…
as you know.
Good luck all.
p.s. That is not flat-wire.
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do you know what a multimeter is if not I strongly suggest you go and learn about them before you blindly build another coil based on what some website says. im guessing you have an ohm tester witch should help you after you install the coil but grabbing some wire and my multimeter seems a lot easier and more accurate than punching numbers in you a website no offence to the website or creators. I went through the same same thing with RC helicopter batteries and internal resistance when some website said you could punch in some numbers and get a number for your batteries. it was way off but many people really believed in the almighty inter web.
real numbers with real tools only way I wrap
Now that was funny D.
A multi-meter is not design. And testing validates configuration. Cart before the horse.
There are all levels here D. And most of us aren't engineers. Probably fewer who actually have any real manufacturing experience, less in a generalist sense.
A meter or website didn't make this…
as you know.
Good luck all.
p.s. That is not flat-wire.
Beautiful....
I own several meters, and a 510 ohm/voltage meter.
My point is that if you are trying to design a certain coil for an intended resistance a tool like steam engine can give you (sometimes) vital info prior to getting out the wire. I say have a goal in mind before you build.
Suppose you only have 30 gauge kanthal left. How can you compare all the possible builds? Steam Engine is just one tool for this research and design work...
3 different builds using kanthal of the same gauge. All aiming for 1.0 ohm and using a 2.5mm id:
Single wire = 3 wraps - hot coil @ 10W
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
2 wire twisted = 6-6.5 wraps - warm coil @ 10W
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
3 wire twisted = 10-10.5 wraps - cool coil at 10W
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
I may not know everything there is to know about them thar multimeters I've used for over 40 years, but I do know they cant tell you all that modeling info when planning a build for a target resistance.
Please elaborate on what you did there.
Does all the extra cotton on top really help?
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It's a vertical coil... You can see through it all the way to the bottom inside of the post. The inner diameter is slightly larger than the air hole in the post, so there is no airflow obstruction whatsoever. Plus I opened the 4 airholes into two large slots at the base of the post.
It's every bit as airy as the OCC heads now.
I also opened the juice channels for more flow.
I put a lot of wick in there for the vertical coil, to keep it saturated. But I left open gaps over the juice channels.
It's every bit as airy as the OCC heads now.
I also opened the juice channels for more flow.
I put a lot of wick in there for the vertical coil, to keep it saturated. But I left open gaps over the juice channels.
the second pic has a twisted 28 gauge horizontal coil. The third pic is a vertical coil
Personally I see no reason to hack the juice channels in this RBA. I use 80-100% VG and I have zero issues with wicking or dry hits.
To each their own. I only did it because I was having alot of issues with juice not reaching the wick.... even with 50/50 juice. Mine would vapor lock and required constant priming puffs.
Consider vacuum pressure. Open too much and you throw the device out of whack. Not a matter of preferences, likes or TEHO. Don't get me wrong jef. I loves to speriment too. Then your wicking style has to change. That can mean having to build larger coils to capture that flow and whole 'nother resistance strategy. So carefully when you drop that cross-flow fuel injection in the Pinto.
Good luck.
p.s. A light dry puff with air-slot/holes covered will restore vacuum pressure when the ST's vaped hard or saturate the wick well when breaking in. Handles a lot of the dry hit issues with these tanks.
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Lol!
It's possible that the STM just couldn't keep up with my vaping style. I like long, full drags. I tried several different coils and wicking procedures, and always got mostly the same results... I made sure that I could buy a replacement RBA section if my 'sperimentin didn't work. However, it's working great for me now.... No dry hits, and even no flooding or leaking. So all is good over here!
I'm driving that Pinto like I stole it!
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