I'm a big fan of the 1.8ohm nautilus coils, I've been using them for years in other devices, but in the BB I had issues with them, they just didn't wick too well and they had a fairly short life (due to the wicking issues)... So "if" you have any issues don't fret too much, once you move to the Xeta or other rebuildables it's unlikely you'll look back ..
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I'm a big fan of the 1.8ohm nautilus coils, I've been using them for years in other devices, but in the BB I had issues with them, they just didn't wick too well and they had a fairly short life (due to the wicking issues)... So "if" you have any issues don't fret too much, once you move to the Xeta or other rebuildables it's unlikely you'll look back ..
DIY... that other bottomless rabbit hole. Poke your head in over here.... great group with some really experienced mixers.
Random DIY mixing and More
You can get one once in a while that is a world class, madness inducing pain in the rear, but I've never failed to get one in and working.
That must be the useless airflow ring thing that almost nobody ever uses. Some of the RBAs come with their version of that. You can use them and I guess some people do, but I don't think I've ever met a serious BB person who does.
The Xeta is endlessly customizable. What kind of vape are you looking for out of it?
For me, it thrives with the small 2 hole deck insert and the 3mm chimney insert. Coil @ about .8 or 9 and under 20 watts. I run it wide open in TC with titanium coils sometimes too for a restricted DTL.
Over the years, I seemed to have amassed a bunch of bvc and nauty coils in varying ohms. I think this one is actually meant for nic salts (never tried salts, but 0.7 sounded good), so far wicking fine. I’m waiting on rbas for two of my dotaios, and have been using them with success there. Last a good bit. I may just leave the BB as is, and fiddle with the rbas once this coil goes south.
Is there a front and back to a condensation plug? I’m guessing yes, but this one is solid black. I can’t slide the glass down with it on.
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True. That's what can be handy about the Crossbow condensation plug/airflow control REPLACEMENT KIT
It will work with any bridge or RBA though restricting the airflow at the bottom like that is not absolutely ideal for every setup. Works a lot better than those black plastic AFC ring things though by far.
I’m really loose mtl/rl af, dtl inhale. Usually build an rta/rda somewhere between 0.5 and 0.9. I like a cooler vape, but wattage sort of varies by tank. Probably between 13-25w. I got the xeta, insider and (clone) vapeshell. I have the Atmizoo creek rda, and the Tripod. I use both those without inserts. Xeta just sounded like a good place to start. I know if I get frustrated with the BB, it’ll get banished to the drawer. Want to give it a fair shot.You can get one once in a while that is a world class, madness inducing pain in the rear, but I've never failed to get one in and working.
That must be the useless airflow ring thing that almost nobody ever uses. Some of the RBAs come with their version of that. You can use them and I guess some people do, but I don't think I've ever met a serious BB person who does.
The Xeta is endlessly customizable. What kind of vape are you looking for out of it?
For me, it thrives with the small 2 hole deck insert and the 3mm chimney insert. Coil @ about .8 or 9 and under 20 watts. I run it wide open in TC with titanium coils sometimes too for a restricted DTL.
Good to know about the little black circle. It didn’t *look* important, so I just stuck it in the box.
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That's about how the Xeta is with the 2 small hole deck insert and the 3mm chimney insert. I'd start there too. Pull the coil down to the airflow without letting it touch of course.
Tighten that positive pin slowly and get it snug enough to where the coil doesn't move, but no more.
Oh yeah, if you use a 2.5mm coil especially, I'd turn those juice flow control posts up about a mm. With a 3 maybe not. You want the cotton snug in the ports, but not where you can feel much resistance when putting the cap on. You have to kinda guide the cotton as you put the cap on to keep it from getting pinched around the edges. Trim it a couple 3 mils outside the cap and prime it.
For the life of me I can't understand why Haku didn't make the top of the wicking ports round instead of square.
Get it set up right and it will absolutely not gurgle, leak or give dry hits.
And ONE other thing that is true of the authentic too. After getting the bottom o-ring in the boro wet with juice, the xeta base will require some MUSCLE to get it in there.
The chimney goes in first, pushed all the way up. Get the base started into the hole, get the cap on the base, line everything up, put it on a table and then I have to use the flat side of my ceramic tweezers to FORCE it the rest of the way down from the top outside the boro. That will get a bit better with time.
For the life of me I can't understand why Haku didn't make the top of the wicking ports round instead of square.
Get it set up right and it will absolutely not gurgle, leak or give dry hits.
And ONE other thing that is true of the authentic too. After getting the bottom o-ring in the boro wet with juice, the xeta base will require some MUSCLE to get it in there.
The chimney goes in first, pushed all the way up. Get the base started into the hole, get the cap on the base, line everything up, put it on a table and then I have to use the flat side of my ceramic tweezers to FORCE it the rest of the way down from the top outside the boro. That will get a bit better with time.
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That definitely sounds like an after coffee kind of project! Thanks for the details, that should make it less of a tussle
I had to pull the boro to flip the condensation plug. Just the tiniest bit of damp at the bottom. Win!!
Did y’all mash the contact clip down a lot? Even with a pull ribbon, that battery is all but welded in.
Did y’all mash the contact clip down a lot? Even with a pull ribbon, that battery is all but welded in.
The neg battery contact loosens up pretty quickly- better off without a pull ribbon imo . It makes the battery sit in too tight. A few pushes with your thumb on the neg contact should be enough to start off with.
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Ribbon messes with the door too. I’ll pull out the battery and see if I can get the negative contact to give a little. I’m betting there’s a battery rewrap in my future
Like most tank atomizers, right after priming, some juice can get away from you. I should have mentioned this, but the first few hits after building and priming, you may get some gurgle just because excess juice from priming it is in the deck. It goes away quickly.
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If you slide the positive side in first and pop the negative side in, that will save the wrap. In reverse, pop the negative side out first.
It's not totally necessary, but i took my negative contacts out, wrapped em in a piece of cloth and used a pair of pliers to squeeze em a little bit. Worked out perfect actually. The batteries go in and out a lot a lot easier while still making solid contact. I don't know why they don't just manufacture them that way.
Maybe it's just me and my weird brain, but every time I see this thread I swear it says Skillet Box
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