SXK Billet box...

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FLICK

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I haven't had any issues with my SXK boro's but I might just be lucky, the glass is quite hard to move at first but it gets easier with time....

I notice the top of the glass isn't quite square, I'm not sure if that's a fault or if it's designed that way to help the glass slide over the ring... I'm always careful to install the glass the same way just in case one end is smoother and better than the other ...

Those that have issues with the ring bunching, maybe try rounding off the top edge of the glass with some fine wet and dry sandpaper or a knife sharpening stone.., a nail file or emery board might be adequate... Smoothing that top edge might be enough to stop the ring catching and bunching....
 

gpjoe

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I haven't had any issues with my SXK boro's but I might just be lucky, the glass is quite hard to move at first but it gets easier with time....

I notice the top of the glass isn't quite square, I'm not sure if that's a fault or if it's designed that way to help the glass slide over the ring... I'm always careful to install the glass the same way just in case one end is smoother and better than the other ...

Those that have issues with the ring bunching, maybe try rounding off the top edge of the glass with some fine wet and dry sandpaper or a knife sharpening stone.., a nail file or emery board might be adequate... Smoothing that top edge might be enough to stop the ring catching and bunching....

I may try this - beveling the leading edge of the glass. I looked at the edge of the glass from one of the SXK tanks through a jeweler's loop and it appeared to be square. I'm thinking a bevel would make it less "grabby".
 

gpjoe

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I take the gasket out, rub some vaseline on my fingers and smooth a lite coating on the gasket.
Do it with my o rings to.

I worked for a defense contractor as an engineer and technical writer for my entire career, and petroleum jelly was strictly taboo on rubber and silicone o-rings. It will literally destroy rubber over time. I would use a food-grade silicone to be safe, unless you want to replace your gaskets/o-rings prematurely.
 

TrollDragon

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I'm waiting on the Eleaf EC-M Coils. They're 0.15ohm and I have the idea it might be a bit to low for me (hope in wrong).
Anybody knows of other mesh coils with a higher resistance...more in the 0.4-0.6 range that will fit?
The recommended power of the EC-M coils is 30W - 75W, I run mine at 45W.

Smok Nord mesh coils come in two resistances, 0.6ohm for DTL and 0.8ohm for MTL.
Smok_Nord-replacement_coils_large.jpg

You will also require a K&R Vapour North Bridge to use them in the Billet Box.
https://www.signaturetips.com/products/north-bridge-nord-coil-adapter
North Bridge.jpg
 

charlie1465

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I have at least 12 of the SXK tanks and all of them that I have tried so far are near impossible to use without the gasket bunching up and jumping out if the groove. I can't imagine it's me - the authentic tanks are as smooth as butter. The clones may be usable, but barely, in my experience - especially when compared to the authentics.

I know this - if I ever do need to buy any more tanks they will not be clones. Not worth the hassle IMO, even at 1/5th the cost. Maybe I'm just a drama queen...but I have little patience for stuff that won't act right. :)

Edit to add: Glad they are working for you, wish I was having the same luck.

I haven't had any issues whatsoever with any of my sxk tanks so it's a bit bizzare that you are having so many problems...

Either a dodgy batch or maybe something you're doing...I suppose that once the gasket has bunched it will be inclined to do it again :)

All mine fill me with confidence that they won't leak :D
 

FLICK

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Just a thought....if anyone has the knowledge?? It would be really helpful to have a sheet which laid out each bridge available, what coils they use and which tank they are supposed to fit.

Anyone ??? :D

There's a bit of a list here, it's a few years old now, I'm not sure if there's anything newer around:
~The Billet Box~ page 1559 continued...

1. Billet Bridge - Aspire BVC
2. Billet Comfort - Aspire Nauti, Triton Mini
3. Billet Racing - Kanger Subtank RBA head
4. Billet Sport - Kanger Subtank replacement heads
5. Uno - rebuildable, Kanger OCC
6. Kangeroo - Kanger OCC
7. Siluro - rebuildable
8. Sabot - Smoktech ARO heads (but Sabot no longer available)
9. In'ax geni-carto - rebuildable (works on rev 3/rev 4)
10. Mystery Atty v1- rebuildable geni-carto (works on rev 3 only)
10a. Mystery Atty v2 - rebuildable geni-carto (works on rev 4)
11. Vape Prod - Aspire BVC
12. ByLeo Sophia v1/2 - rebuildable
13. Atmistique Diver - rebuildable
14. Rebuildable kartos
15. Regular, ole slotted/punched cartomizers (Boge, IkenVape, Smok, etc.)

Maybe people here could build on that list, in the same style as in the quoted Billet Box thread...
 

gpjoe

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I haven't had any issues whatsoever with any of my sxk tanks so it's a bit bizzare that you are having so many problems...

Either a dodgy batch or maybe something you're doing...I suppose that once the gasket has bunched it will be inclined to do it again :)

All mine fill me with confidence that they won't leak :D

I'm as stumped as anyone else that has graciously read all of my complaining. :)

Like I said, I can be persnickety, and don't like anything fiddly...but...the authentic tank seems waaaaay better. I mean it should be as simple as lubing the gasket and installing the glass, which is exactly how the authentic tanks behave. When I do the same thing with the clone tanks the glass is much harder to slide and the gasket inevitably pushes out of the groove. I don't know how to do it any differently.
 

NGAHaze

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I'm as stumped as anyone else that has graciously read all of my complaining. :)

Like I said, I can be persnickety, and don't like anything fiddly...but...the authentic tank seems waaaaay better. I mean it should be as simple as lubing the gasket and installing the glass, which is exactly how the authentic tanks behave. When I do the same thing with the clone tanks the glass is much harder to slide and the gasket inevitably pushes out of the groove. I don't know how to do it any differently.

I can't recall where I saw it illustrated but if I'm not mistaken the OEM boro glass does have a bevel on the top of one side which reduces the pressure on the gasket as you push it up. I only remember it because it was noted that you need to be careful to put it back in the proper orientation should you remove it completely or you might have problems with the gasket buckling.
 

charlie1465

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There's a bit of a list here, it's a few years old now, I'm not sure if there's anything newer around:
~The Billet Box~ page 1559 continued...

1. Billet Bridge - Aspire BVC
2. Billet Comfort - Aspire Nauti, Triton Mini
3. Billet Racing - Kanger Subtank RBA head
4. Billet Sport - Kanger Subtank replacement heads
5. Uno - rebuildable, Kanger OCC
6. Kangeroo - Kanger OCC
7. Siluro - rebuildable
8. Sabot - Smoktech ARO heads (but Sabot no longer available)
9. In'ax geni-carto - rebuildable (works on rev 3/rev 4)
10. Mystery Atty v1- rebuildable geni-carto (works on rev 3 only)
10a. Mystery Atty v2 - rebuildable geni-carto (works on rev 4)
11. Vape Prod - Aspire BVC
12. ByLeo Sophia v1/2 - rebuildable
13. Atmistique Diver - rebuildable
14. Rebuildable kartos
15. Regular, ole slotted/punched cartomizers (Boge, IkenVape, Smok, etc.)

Maybe people here could build on that list, in the same style as in the quoted Billet Box thread...

Heey Flick, that's really useful :) I appreciate it.

I can see that there are a lot missing though...insider, exocet, crossbow, vapeshell, mf bridge etc. etc...

I'll definitely upgrade the list when i've got a minute, unless someone beats me to it :)
 

charlie1465

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Dec 30, 2014
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Roquebrune sur Argens, Var, France
I'm as stumped as anyone else that has graciously read all of my complaining. :)

Like I said, I can be persnickety, and don't like anything fiddly...but...the authentic tank seems waaaaay better. I mean it should be as simple as lubing the gasket and installing the glass, which is exactly how the authentic tanks behave. When I do the same thing with the clone tanks the glass is much harder to slide and the gasket inevitably pushes out of the groove. I don't know how to do it any differently.

Ok...i'm not suggesting that you're a hopeless glass slider :D

And quite happy to accept that the authentic could be easier. There's got to be reason for it IMO. Have you tried running something under the plastic runner to see if there are any imperfections there? It occurred that a small nipple of plastic on the upper edge of the runner may push the glass down in a particular spot which then exerts uneven pressure on the gasket, causing it to pucker??

Heeey but i'm no expert on pucker mechanics :lol:
 
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