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@chanelvaps gpjoe beat me to it and this method is exactly the one I use. Nothing to add except you need to make sure your cotton is tight in the coil but not so tight it start to distort it....hope that makes sense. Oh and when you push your cotton ends do it super gently...no need to prod into the holes as....they should automatically be covered if you use the correct method
@gpjoe The gasket must be lubricated with juice before you try. Put it in its groove dry and then lube the top side thoroughly....that should do it
I have that problem too and thought about ordering 3-4 more boxes but would they all be the same, with the same troublesome red seal....
Buying more SXK tanks won't make any difference - I have over 10 tanks, three of original white and the rest black, and a couple of the SXK A tanks, and they all do the same thing.
Still wondering if this is unique to the SXK or if the authentic tanks are better in this regard. I assume the authentic tanks will work in the clone, though I don't know for certain. If the authentic were easier to use I'd try a few - it's such a PITA that it would be worth the cost to me.
I never have any problems with mine so not quite sure why you are....different technique maybe?
I have no leaking from the Authentic Boro or SXK Borro's in regular or A version. Have never used a Kanger RBA head but that seems to be more the cause of the leaking than the actual borro?
Gasket bunching is annoying. I lightly lube the gasket with juice on a q-tip. What also helps is right after the window is inserted and contacts the gasket, I apply slight downward pressure on the end of the glass as it glides up and across the gasket and into place. The slight downward pressure lifts the area of the window contacting the gasket for the least amount of contact and friction.
I have 4 authentics and 2 Sacks.
IMO the authentic tanks are better, much better. On both my SXKs the glass is very hard to slide and I get seal bunching. Authentics are smooth smooth smooth!
I put authentic boros in both my SXKs and they work fine.
Yes I should be specific and say that it is probably more of a user/operator problem then a problem with the gear.
Alright, so I rewicked and put everything back together and am now getting an "no atomizer" message? Anyone?
Figured it out. Googled it and found a Reddit thread. Clean the threads in the screw down thing the drip tip fits into. It worked!
I'm convinced - just ordered three black boro tanks directly from Billet Box Vapor. If they work as well as you say it will be well worth the 96 bucks.
Thanks.
If it is tight when trying to slide the glass, then the gasket is to dry, you need to lube the gasket or it will bunch up. If lubed properly and slide up slow you should not have any problems, wipe up any extra lube once it is closed up.
Sometimes the bridges can be just a tad too short so you need to make sure that they are making contact with both the positive (Bottom) connection and the negative (top)...if that makes sense
I found this with the eLeaf EC-Mesh coils in the Atlantis adapter. Pulling the center pin from the coil head and installing a little o-ring on the post gave it a little more height when reinstalled. They are very tasty mesh coils at 45W.Sometimes the bridges can be just a tad too short so you need to make sure that they are making contact with both the positive (Bottom) connection and the negative (top)...if that makes sense
Got my Vapresso coils with sleeve today. Somebody please tell me how to use them? Which adapter do I use?
The EUC coils go in the included adapter and then into the A-Tank with it's adapters.
Yeah it takes a bit of figuring out. I got my A tank and discovered some of these coils I had lying around forever
Didn't know if it'll work. I tried fitting it multiple ways, and in the end it came together. Not straight forward though. Coils are a bit high up of the bottom. Will have to tilt it to keep the cotton soaked I suppose
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