I agree.I have several spare Dna 60 boards ready to go for the BB's,but in the very unlikely event that the current and spare boards all die on me before i do,i have looked them over and realized it would be simple to swap to unregulated,or with just a little more work,they could still be vw/vv by using something like an OKL or similar board and potentiometer.I wouldn't be worried. Virtually any regulated mod could be converted into a mech mod very easily. Even a Billet Box.![]()
You inspired me. I dragged the old dented tube mod out and worked on it for a bit. It aint pretty, but it does fully thread and function now.It won’t look like new, but the threads can be repaired to fully functional.
I can't member. Did you get the full kit?My Vapesnail arrived today. Also 4 spare Boro tanks from FT. Think the Vapesnail is going to take a while to figure out. There sure are a lot of bits and pieces. I might look for some guidance on youtube. I do better with the written word than with talking heads and moving pictures though.
I can't member. Did you get the full kit?
It's like any Billet Box thing, though maybe a bit more involved than some other rbas.Yeah, it's the full kit. I'm planning to use it with the BB I currently have the Kanger set up in. The Kanger is actually running really well now I got it figured out. Now I have some spare Boro tanks I guess I'll be able to keep different setups ready to go and swap them in and out. It's starting to make a bit of sense now.
If you take the white gasket off and put a thin tiny small oring under the gasket on the deck. You will create a thight seal against the plexy stoping any seeping of juice into the mod...then you have to monitor the two white orings on the mouthpiece to see if any seepage is happening there...I got my Vapesnail installed. Running OK but with a few problems.
First thing was it immediately flooded the mod. Maybe I put too much juice on the wick but it doesn’t seem like that would be enough. I took it out and dried everything off. When I put it back together it didn’t flood again.
Now I just have some minor liquid build up at the base of the tank and behind it, pretty normal.
Another annoying thing, the door rocks. I’m not certain but it looks like maybe it’s the fill plug causing it.
Ive been running this build for about a week. If you look closely will see that no ejuice is getting through the white gasket. There's a tiny clear silicone oring under it...![]()
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So I've built and installed the Snail. Having used the dotshell quite a bit it was pretty much the same thing.
Haven't noticed any leaking yet. Vape is exactly what I expected.
I don't have a little gap between the bottom gasket and the "glass". This is the authentic, I should have the SXK sometime this week to compare. Got this one with the BB, otherwise wouldn't have it. View attachment 897715
Swear I saw them somewhere. 3F maybe. If I see them again I'll pass along.Cool.
My leaks have gone away now it's been running for a while. Wish I had one of those silicone plugs for the bottom. Seems you only get them with the authentic Snail.
Hey guys...just got myself an original vapesnail. I have a problem with the resistance though. When I put the deck on another mod (a DNA 200 mod), with or without the tank section, the resistance is stable. When I move to the BB it falls drastically ( as in from 1 ohm to 0.01). All my other bridges are fine with the BB. Just the vapesnail is having this problem.
Could it be the positive pin? I think that’s the only thing that changes when I put the snail in the BB.
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One common cause of very low resistance would be the coil or a stray leg touching something, but that would show up on any mod not just the BB. Sounds like a short in the positive pin might be the problem like you said. If you have a meter maybe you could test the pin. I can't remember what it looks like. Could a bit of wire have dropped into the top end of the pin?