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A few pages back I was asked why I used a Samsumg 20S in my SXK Billet Box, here's why:
The voltage drop here at 60 watt boost is about 3.58 volts.
The voltage drop here at 60 watt boost is about 3.58 volts.
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Question for the gurus:
The folded over metal "spring" for the negative battery connection sucks - it won't make connection with any of my batteries because it's so wide that it only makes contact with the battery wrap. I have a folded-up piece of aluminum foil stuffed in there to make it work right now.
I thought about taking the spring out and cutting it smaller but was wondering if anyone had any input/ideas before I went that extreme.
The folded over metal "spring" for the negative battery connection sucks - it won't make connection with any of my batteries because it's so wide that it only makes contact with the battery wrap. I have a folded-up piece of aluminum foil stuffed in there to make it work right now.
I thought about taking the spring out and cutting it smaller but was wondering if anyone had any input/ideas before I went that extreme.
The negative contact on mine is 10 mm wide. The exposed area of my particular cell is 14 mm diameter. I'd be thinking about cutting the end of the wrap rather than the battery terminal....that is of coarse unless it is really wide, like 16 mm.
I haven't seen that part cloned yet,but you can buy it directly from Atimizoo,although it's quite expensive after shipping.When i first got my Vapesnail clone,i wanted that silicone dry plug,so checked there,the plug and a pack of the cotton dots was close to $40 after shipping,i didn't want it that bad haha.
My spring was 10mm same as yours. I just measured some of my LG batteries. The exposed area was 13mm. But on one that I had rewrapped it was a fraction over 10mm. Not a problem in other mods but that might be a problem in the BB. Another rewrap was 14mm. Never gave that any thought when I was rewrapping.
Saw on FB, and long shot but flush nut maybe? His is reading off by a decent amount between 2 different brands. So maybe that or the tip if integrated?
Yea - it get that.
It's just that I re-wrapped all my batteries a few months ago and all came out less than 10mm - I dread the the idea of wrapping 30+ batteries again.
I'm probably just going to do 6 or so to keep in BB rotation.
The BB is working fine with the Kanger RBA - but impatiently waiting for my Snail on the slow boat.
The only other issue is I get a very slight rocking on one the the covers - but it's barely noticeable. I've got some really beautiful stab wood panels coming from the Ukraine that I'm dying to see in person.
The cool thing about this BB is you can easily your juice level from the side (assuming you use a clear Boro) - so using opaque panels doesn't limit that.
It's just that I re-wrapped all my batteries a few months ago and all came out less than 10mm - I dread the the idea of wrapping 30+ batteries again.
I'm probably just going to do 6 or so to keep in BB rotation.
The BB is working fine with the Kanger RBA - but impatiently waiting for my Snail on the slow boat.
The only other issue is I get a very slight rocking on one the the covers - but it's barely noticeable. I've got some really beautiful stab wood panels coming from the Ukraine that I'm dying to see in person.
The cool thing about this BB is you can easily your juice level from the side (assuming you use a clear Boro) - so using opaque panels doesn't limit that.
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I used a small thin oring, almost like a thin driptip oring..I took off the gasket place this oring carefully around the deck part where the gasket go's then I put the gasket back on. So the gaskets sits on top of small oring.
Back in the days when we didnt have the correct driptip orings and we wanted a snug fit on the cap. we would wrap the driptip with a small piece of thread and put the the oring on top of it. So its basically is the same method except we're not using thread around the deck under the gasket, we're using and oring under the gasket to create the snug fit...
hope this helps, but i will take a picture of the process when I take the tank apart again. Right now the BB is sitting because I got a new toy I've been vaping for a few days...
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Reading through this thread from beginning to end I picked up a few things.
All the talk awhile back about the Xeta piqued my interest so I jumped at getting one.
I honestly like it a little more than the Snail. My first build is a simple SS @ .3. Flavor is very nice. Getting it in the boro was a wee bit challenging.
May have to dial AF back a bit. Was worried I'd screw up the wicking, but no crackling or dry hits yet.
So thanks folks. Really.
Obligatory pic.
All the talk awhile back about the Xeta piqued my interest so I jumped at getting one.
I honestly like it a little more than the Snail. My first build is a simple SS @ .3. Flavor is very nice. Getting it in the boro was a wee bit challenging.
May have to dial AF back a bit. Was worried I'd screw up the wicking, but no crackling or dry hits yet.
So thanks folks. Really.
Obligatory pic.
Definitely still a great rba,for me the only advantage the snail has is ease of access to the build deck,but i think the Xeta still has a small edge on flavor.
I mucked up that DNA 60 board bad @BillW50. I clogged most of the open wire pads when soldering. I cleaned up with flux but it still looks bad. The wires I used didnt want to stick even when i applied flux... the switches i bought were ok but no way to solder to the internal leads if you wand to cut the length of the switch. I tried heating it with the soldering iron but it melts the whole lead off... it got so bad that I dont want to attempt it again. I was thinking that maybe I should take it to a local shop and have them solder all the 10 wire leads, top and bottom....
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Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
The very thing I was afraid of myself. I don't do enough soldering to feel confident with these micro small and thin connections.
Don't feel bad. It's still savable.
Yes its still good, thank god for the laminated board..smh
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Ok, just to touch base on the seeping issue from the vapesnails tank. This is what i did and it reduced seeping dramatically....I used a small thin oring, almost like a thin driptip oring..I took off the gasket place this oring carefully around the deck part where the gasket go's then I put the gasket back on. So the gaskets sits on top of small oring.
Back in the days when we didnt have the correct driptip orings and we wanted a snug fit on the cap. we would wrap the driptip with a small piece of thread and put the the oring on top of it. So its basically is the same method except we're not using thread around the deck under the gasket, we're using and oring under the gasket to create the snug fit...
hope this helps, but i will take a picture of the process when I take the tank apart again. Right now the BB is sitting because I got a new toy I've been vaping for a few days...
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
Are you sure it's leaking from there and not from the wicking ports?Ok, just to touch base on the seeping issue from the vapesnails tank. This is what i did and it reduced seeping dramatically....
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