SXmini mod ... Yihi

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Technonut

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sorry if this has been posted but i could not find it on the forum.... has anyone had an issue with their usb charge port on their sx mini? mine just stopped working today and will not charge anymore....

I remember one member here with the same issue.. The device was RMA'ed. I don't depend on the small USB charging boards in any of these devices, including the dna 30's I've owned before. I see them as an occasional convenience, (especially with the SXmini's USB port used for upgrades also) and leave primary charging to my dedicated xtar VP1. I do notice longer run time over using the USB charger also..;)
 

JohnD0406

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sorry if this has been posted but i could not find it on the forum.... has anyone had an issue with their usb charge port on their sx mini? mine just stopped working today and will not charge anymore....

I've heard of a few people with problems. YiHi made the port way too tight, which is likely a contributing factor. I'm extra careful plugging/unplugging the cable, but do use the USB port exclusively for charging. The SXmini seems to have a very good charge circuit - charges to exactly 4.20V, and at 500mA, it's slow enough to give the battery a nice long life. Many external chargers charge at 750-1000mA, though my Xtar can go as low as 250mA.

If my USB port ever causes trouble, I'll just open it up and resolder the joints (likely the issue), but I do electronics work so I'm not worried about it.
 

Technonut

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I've heard of a few people with problems. YiHi made the port way too tight, which is likely a contributing factor. I'm extra careful plugging/unplugging the cable, but do use the USB port exclusively for charging. The SXmini seems to have a very good charge circuit - charges to exactly 4.20V, and at 500mA, it's slow enough to give the battery a nice long life. Many external chargers charge at 750-1000mA, though my Xtar can go as low as 250mA.

If my USB port ever causes trouble, I'll just open it up and resolder the joints (likely the issue), but I do electronics work so I'm not worried about it.

There is no way in hell that the charging board in the SXmini (or other devices) is comparable to the Pila, or other quality chargers using a proper algorithm IMO. ( The Pila was my charger of choice before the XTAR VP1) With 18650 IMR cells, it is preferable to give them a 1 amp charge if possible. I use the 0.25 amp setting in the VP1 for my 18350's, and 0.50 amps for 18500's.. I have batteries which are over 2 years old, and still going strong.. ;) As posted, I also enjoy longer run-time using the VP1 over the SXmini's charger.
 
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Kenho21

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28ga Ni200 is the "default", though a lot of folks have had good luck with 29, 30 or 32 gauge, the latter two lending themselves well to twisting (which offsets some of the wire softness issues, as well as the regular "benefits" of twisted wire).

Few people go heavier than 28ga because of the sheer amount of wraps needed to get resistance above 0.1 ohms, which is the functional limit for DNA40 devices.

With the SX350J, I wouldn't try to build down to .08 in any case, it's got at least 20 more watts to play with compared to the DNA40, so personally I'd be building higher resistance (which is about the same as the target range for a DNA40) and take advantage of that extra wattage.

Thanks! Think I'm gonna get some 28 and 30 nickel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

kbf101998

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Long time no "see"... Good to see you here, but sorry you're having issues. IIRC, I remember reading of a similar issue on one of the international forums awhile back. YiHi is supposed to be working on a solution in their next firmware update. In the meantime, try hitting the fire button, or the top adjustment button one time after you see the display light stuck on, to see if it shuts off. I would still pursue an RMA and get a replacement though.

You know that I'm a ProVape fan also.. ;) I placed my purchase of the P3 on hold since purchasing the SXmini. I'm that impressed with the device. :) I was going to buy a 2nd myself before I heard of the upcoming SXminiJ M Class next month. There have been some cosmetic changes, along with the addition of temp-protection. I'm sure that the firmware will be more refined also. The SXmini is the only Chinese regulated device I've bothered with in over 4 years with the exception of the Sigelei Zmax a couple of years ago.

I 'm still around the ProVape forum, and have read of an issue or two with the P3 also.. I know it's a great device, but anything with electronics involved can be subject to issues at times. I wouldn't give up on the SXmini just yet.. ;)

Hi Technonut! Great to see you and thanks for the info! I will check out the new SXmini and follow up with getting this one replaced. I still use my Provari 2.5 everyday and hope that the SXmini will be a good addition! I do like it --just want it to work flawlessly :)!
 

JohnD0406

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There is no way in hell that the charging board in the SXmini (or other devices) is comparable to the Pila, or other quality chargers using a proper algorithm IMO.

You're entitled to your opinion, however there really is not much to a lithium ion charging circuit, and it can easily be done on a boardset.

With 18650 IMR cells, it is preferable to give them a 1 amp charge if possible.

That is incorrect. The slower the charge, the better. Internal heat is what takes life away from a cell - whether that be fast charge or fast discharge. Just because a cell CAN take a faster charge, doesn't mean it's BETTER. Slower is always better - less heat, longer cell life.


As posted, I also enjoy longer run-time using the VP1 over the SXmini's charger.

If both chargers charge to exactly 4.20V, they will both have the same runtime. I think you're experiencing a placebo effect.
 

Technonut

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You're entitled to your opinion, however there really is not much to a lithium ion charging circuit, and it can easily be done on a boardset.



That is incorrect. The slower the charge, the better. Internal heat is what takes life away from a cell - whether that be fast charge or fast discharge. Just because a cell CAN take a faster charge, doesn't mean it's BETTER. Slower is always better - less heat, longer cell life.




If both chargers charge to exactly 4.20V, they will both have the same runtime. I think you're experiencing a placebo effect.



You are entitled to your opinion also.. I've been doing this for over 4 years, and my 2+ year old batteries still going strong is a strong indicator that I'm doing something correctly.. :) As for the longer run time.. Not a placebo effect at all.. It's been noticed by other SXmini owners also.. ;) Try it yourself... Not everyone wants to tear their device apart to solder the USB connector in case of failure, or send their device in for an RMA.

EDIT: I also know that the difference between charging an 18650 IMR battery at .50 amps, compared to 1.0 amp, will only extend the battery's life by one or two usable charge cycles at the most over it's life... Nothing to lose sleep about. ;) The faster charge time is preferred to many, including myself.. Most of the specs on IMR 18650 batteries (depending upon the cell) state a maximum charging amperage of a little over 2 amps IIRC...
 
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JohnD0406

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You are entitled to your opinion also.. I've been doing this for over 4 years, and my 2+ year old batteries still going strong is a strong indicator that I'm doing something correctly.. :)

My opinion is backed up with a bit of electronics knowledge ;) Also, I've never had to toss a cell - I'm still using my very first one.

As for the longer run time.. Not a placebo effect at all.. It's been noticed by other SXmini owners also.. ;) Try it yourself...

There is a very simple test that will prove without any doubt if this is a real or placebo effect. Charge the cell in the SXmini, reset the joule counter, and see how many joules you can get out of it. Now charge it in the real charger and do the same. Make sure you use the same atomizer for both test runs. If the numbers are very close in both runs, you're experiencing a placebo effect. If the real charger makes it last longer, the joule counter will be significantly higher.

Not everyone wants to tear their device apart to solder the USB connector in case of failure, or send their device in for an RMA.

Like I said, I do electronics work and am not afraid to take something apart. Of course not everyone would want to do that. Part of my reasoning for using the USB port exclusively is to see if it does indeed break, and then troubleshoot what went wrong. With that knowledge, I can give YiHi meaning full feedback, as well as let everyone here know how easy of a fix it would be.

EDIT: I also know that the difference between charging an 18650 IMR battery at .50 amps, compared to 1.0 amp, will only extend the battery's life by one or two usable charge cycles at the most over it's life... Nothing to lose sleep about. ;)

You can't make a blanket statement like that, because there are far too many factors involved. Room temperature, neighboring cells in the charger, hot spots in the charger, internal resistance of the cell, etc. etc. etc. All of those factors affect internal cell temperature, which in turn affect cell longevity.

With that said, most people wouldn't know the difference anyway. It's like watching anything that has an extremely slow change - you don't notice the change. Kids growing up, hair growing, evaporation, etc... People who use their cells in a fast discharge device (mechanical, high wattage VV/VW, etc.) won't benefit much from a slower charge anyway.

The faster charge time is preferred to many, including myself.. Most of the specs on IMR 18650 batteries (depending upon the cell) state a maximum charging amperage of a little over 2 amps IIRC...

I can't keep up with your edits :p Hey, by all means, do whatever you prefer - it's nice to have options. Nothing wrong with making a choice once you understand the consequences. As I stated above, just because a cell CAN handle a higher current charge, doesn't mean it's not wearing it out quicker too. It's like comparing an ICR with an IMR - the IMR can handle a higher discharge current (you'd never put an ICR in a mechanical), but that doesn't mean the IMR will have a longer overall life - quite the contrary actually.

Much to most people's surprise, I'm still using "D" sized NiCad's that are 20+ years old (amazing they still make products that take C & D cells). When charged properly, discharged properly, and conditioned properly, they really do last a LOT longer.

As your 18-series lithium cells age, they build up internal resistance, so if you really wanted to know how healthy they are, you'd measure them when they're new, and periodically after that. Although a cell can appear to be fine 2 years later, it's dangerous in a high-drain situation (like a mechanical) if you don't know the real health of the cell. You're better off recycling them every year or two maximum in a mechanical, and high-wattage devices like the SXmini too.
 
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Technonut

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My opinion is backed up with a bit of electronics knowledge ;) Also, I've never had to toss a cell - I'm still using my very first one.



There is a very simple test that will prove without any doubt if this is a real or placebo effect. Charge the cell in the SXmini, reset the joule counter, and see how many joules you can get out of it. Now charge it in the real charger and do the same. Make sure you use the same atomizer for both test runs. If the numbers are very close in both runs, you're experiencing a placebo effect. If the real charger makes it last longer, the joule counter will be significantly higher.



Like I said, I do electronics work and am not afraid to take something apart. Of course not everyone would want to do that. Part of my reasoning for using the USB port exclusively is to see if it does indeed break, and then troubleshoot what went wrong. With that knowledge, I can give YiHi meaning full feedback, as well as let everyone here know how easy of a fix it would be.



You can't make a blanket statement like that, because there are far too many factors involved. Room temperature, neighboring cells in the charger, hot spots in the charger, internal resistance of the cell, etc. etc. etc. All of those factors affect internal cell temperature, which in turn affect cell longevity.

With that said, most people wouldn't know the difference anyway. It's like watching anything that has an extremely slow change - you don't notice the change. Kids growing up, hair growing, evaporation, etc... People who use their cells in a fast discharge device (mechanical, high wattage VV/VW, etc.) won't benefit much from a slower charge anyway.

I already have... 025969.7J using the VP1.. 024399.0J using the SXmini's charger..
 

JohnD0406

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I already have... 025969.7J using the VP1.. 024399.0J using the SXmini's charger..

I'm surprised you actually notice a 6% difference, but I'll give you that one... I can't say I notice the difference between a 2000mAH and 2500mAH cell - I just charge when needed.

I'll bookmark this post and reply back with my own tests, but that will be a long way down the road. I'm determined to flip the joule counter past 999,999 (don't ask - it's for my own amusement). I'll use 3 different brand cells, 3 cycles each in the SXmini charger, and my VP4. Assuming I get the M-class (budget just got tight), I'll do the same in it too (but expect the same results).
 

Technonut

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I'm surprised you actually notice a 6% difference, but I'll give you that one... I can't say I notice the difference between a 2000mAH and 2500mAH cell - I just charge when needed.

I'll bookmark this post and reply back with my own tests, but that will be a long way down the road. I'm determined to flip the joule counter past 999,999 (don't ask - it's for my own amusement). I'll use 3 different brand cells, 3 cycles each in the SXmini charger, and my VP4. Assuming I get the M-class (budget just got tight), I'll do the same in it too (but expect the same results).

I do indeed notice.. Not significant, but there.

As your 18-series lithium cells age, they build up internal resistance, so if you really wanted to know how healthy they are, you'd measure them when they're new, and periodically after that. Although a cell can appear to be fine 2 years later, it's dangerous in a high-drain situation (like a mechanical) if you don't know the real health of the cell. You're better off recycling them every year or two maximum in a mechanical, and high-wattage devices like the SXmini too.

I'm aware of that also... I'm pretty up on the batteries that we use in vaping.. :) In fact, I was asked to write an article for the ECF library regarding batteries, and battery safety.. ;) Due to personal reasons at the time, I declined, and haven't gotten around to it since I've been active here again. You are pretty knowledgeable regarding the subject yourself.. It's just not good to suggest excessive use of the SXmini's USB port for charging while folks are experiencing failures IMO...

EDIT: I do load-test my batteries on a regular basis BTW.. Any that don't meet the cut are properly discarded..
 
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JohnD0406

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It's just not good to suggest excessive use of the SXmini's USB port for charging while folks are experiencing failures IMO...

I never recommended anything either way. I just acknowledged a few people reported problems, but I choose to continue to use the USB port, and if I have any trouble, I'll fix it. But no, you made me go back and check, I didn't recommend anyone use it.

If it weren't for the upgradable firmware, I *would* recommend using it until it breaks. I still have my doubts about how widespread the issue is, since those having trouble with any product tend to be the vocal majority. Vendors would also be painfully aware of a widespread problem. I wonder if any of them will chime in here.
 

JohnD0406

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My final thoughts on this topic... I love to discuss technical aspects of products & devices. This has been fun, but taking a step back, all that matters is safety. There are good and great chargers, with the difference being a few extra minutes of vape time and maybe a few months longevity. If we really cared about runtime, we'd all ditch our 2500mAH cells for the 2900mAH Panasonics.

We spend $8 on a cell and try to make it last 2 years or more. The best general advice for anyone not a tech-head is to get a good, authentic, high-drain IMR cell, use a good (or great) charger, and recycle the cell every year or so (assuming it's been used in high rotation). Most of us spend more than $8/week on juice, so why not replace something in the interest of maximum safety? Factor in how much you spent on cigarettes and the point really becomes apparent.

Safety above all else.
 

peraspera

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Posted this in another part of the forum with no luck. Hopefully a little better luck here...


I'm getting my first TC mod (SX Mini M Class) soon and have never worked with nickel wire that I can remember for sure. So I'm not sure what I should be buying to stay within it's .08Ω, 60W range. I have kanthal in 28 AWG, 30 AWG, and 32 AWG, also getting some 26 AWG, but I don't have any nickel...what do you guys use on your TC devices, or what would you recommend?

The annealed Ni200 wire available in the U.S. is very soft. Most people find working with it at least a bit of a challenge and a few have given up in frustration. This video shows how to work harden wire which makes the Ni200 a bit easier to work with but it is still considerably softer than Kanthal. Some people have work hardened their Ni200 by twisting in an power drill.

Getting gauges between 28 and 32 will let you experiment with builds most people are using. Some people find that twisting higher gauge wire is easier for them to work with than using single heavier gauge.

There doesn't seem to be a U.S. supplier but you can get tempered Ni200 wire from the UK in a little over a week. Mine is en route so I can't confirm personally but people who have tried the tempered Ni200 have said that it is fairly similar to working with Kanthal.

The SX350J specs show the range for Ni200 builds (joule mode) as .12Ω–.1Ω so don't count on .08Ω coils working well or at all.
 

JohnD0406

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There doesn't seem to be a U.S. supplier but you can get tempered Ni200 wire from the UK in a little over a week.

I've been reading a bit about NI200. Seems tempered wire becomes annealed when you dry fire it (coil glows orange), so that kinda defeats the purpose when you change cotton the first time. Likewise, people are saying they're tempering the wire by heating it until it glows, then dunking it in cold water. I'll have to read up a bit more, but so far it's an interesting subject.

Heat Treating of Nickel and Nickel Alloys :: KEY to METALS Articles
 

nic_fix

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I have a cell that is taking much longer to charge. that goes in the recycle bin I take it. that is a way to tell. if a worn out cell's resistance increases it will take longer to charge. then you know toss it at once. I mean a few minutes can be a variation but another hour the thing is gone. the weird thing is 3 out of five times it charged in normal time. better safe than sorry. trying to bet your life for $8 is dumb.
 

peraspera

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I've been reading a bit about NI200. Seems tempered wire becomes annealed when you dry fire it (coil glows orange), so that kinda defeats the purpose when you change cotton the first time. Likewise, people are saying they're tempering the wire by heating it until it glows, then dunking it in cold water. I'll have to read up a bit more, but so far it's an interesting subject.

Heat Treating of Nickel and Nickel Alloys :: KEY to METALS Articles

According to the Ulbrich Ni200 datasheet one can not harden Ni200 with heat. It seems that cold tempering is the method used for Ni200. Also, I have seen the carbon precipitation mentioned in the data sheet when torching or dry burning so I don't dry burn my nickel coils although some people do.

Nickel 200 is not recommended for service above 600°F (316°C) because long-time exposures in the 800°F to 1200°F range result in precipitation of a carbon containing phase and loss of ductility.
...
Properties: Tempered
Nickel 200 can be cold rolled to various tempers. Contact Ulbrich Technical Service for additional information
...
Heat Treatment
Nickel 200 is non hardenable by heat treatment.
 
I remember one member here with the same issue.. The device was RMA'ed. I don't depend on the small USB charging boards in any of these devices, including the DNA 30's I've owned before. I see them as an occasional convenience, (especially with the SXmini's USB port used for upgrades also) and leave primary charging to my dedicated XTAR VP1. I do notice longer run time over using the USB charger also..;)

I didn't even think about the board upgrades... I guess i will be sending it in to get fixed since i am not about to pull it apart to see if the soldering is busted.

I did buy a efest charger and an extra battery today to hold me over but it is something that should be functioning. Especially when spending that kind of cash on a mod.
 

nic_fix

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higher wattage mods, the usb is only for upgrades. I would not charge there. except in a pinch to get a little power. it would be important to have it for upgrades. afaik yihi makes your dealer give you an exchange. no need to send to china. I have an acct with ups. even then this thing is like 2lb packaged. to ship to china is like $60 with insurance even with an acct for one piece! if you had to you could use Chinese courier like fastech. much cheaper.
 
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