No it can be either one but one really needs a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to do it easily.
It needs to be just the right length pretty much.
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It needs to be just the right length pretty much.
@dwcraig1 I have a question about all this 510 screw business... I replaced the 510 screw on one of my GS models (the gs2 or GSL? Can't remember I think the GSL) because the one that came with it all corroded badly. (my fault for not properly drying them after washing)
But I found a flat head screw replacement at my local ace hardware, can the 510 screw be put all the way in? As in bottom out? I'm sure if it were long enough it would touch something inside there. And I'm guessing it would be the positive post right. Shouldn't matter if it was long enough to actually touch something up there? Would it?
But I found a flat head screw replacement at my local ace hardware, can the 510 screw be put all the way in? As in bottom out? I'm sure if it were long enough it would touch something inside there. And I'm guessing it would be the positive post right. Shouldn't matter if it was long enough to actually touch something up there? Would it?
OK like usual it got too far out of the realm of what I can do. I did buy a dremel after all the talk in here about fixing stuff but never even took it out of the box
I'm now starting on my #2 Hotcig TGTII-S, I'm only to the cleaning of the parts currently. I doubt if I ever disassembled this one except for initial cleaning before use. Now this is going to sound pretty bad....oh my god...the mess inside the base. I doubt if the ones with a non-removable would be much different as far as juice making a mess in there. I'll post more about this one later as I plan on doing a little more work on the air path on this one, this one still has the 5 holes under the AC ring also, I'll cut them like the other.
I suppose you enjoy the reduced air draw now?
I've had Hard time with going back after using enormous air flow draw tanks like the Griffin, aromamizer, Gemini, squape x.
I've had Hard time with going back after using enormous air flow draw tanks like the Griffin, aromamizer, Gemini, squape x.
It's about the same as every thing I normally use, Bellus, K5, Bellus, K5....my aromamizer is a bit more airy.
The draw is very comparable to the K5 wide open. I really could go for a bigger chimney.
I got 2 of the k5, a tobeco and a sxk. The 4 pip position seems tight for me. I used it for a couple of days... It's not horrible but noticeably tighter draw (to me - ymmv)
I guess the advantage of being a Vape hoarder is, I can change tanks (and draws) as my mood dictates. LOL [emoji23]
It looks like my 510's insulator could use a good soaking.
Here is what I did to the 510, the sleeve replaces the spring which is there to keep the screw where you put it (it does a terrible job of it).
My resistance on a DNA mod was 0.51Ω with the spring and 0.39Ω with the sleeve in place of the spring. With TC this is a huge difference, even in power mode it's substantial.
With a spring loaded 510 in the mod there is no reason for the atty's 510 to be adjustable. In fact it usually spells trouble.
What method did you use to measure the length of the sleeve?
And I'm noticing is beveled at one end.... Would that make a difference?
I'd like to try this too but I'm pretty sure my clone sleeves aren't beveled there just straight. And just for clarification the metal sleeve goes in first>then white plastic insulator>then 510 screw correct?
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The tapered end came that way, it is the end that was started into the clones base.
On the Hotcig the sleeve and the insulator are near the same length, sleeve is ever so slightly longer though.
Insulator first, sleeve 2nd, 510 screw 3rd.
I just knocked out the center section of my 19mm GS II (Not Hotcig) looking to modify it for a little more airflow. If you want some pictures of it apart let me know and I'll take some.
Thank you so much for this post!!! U made my first build on my new clone a successful oneYes, run it through the coil leave the tails long, grab the end of the tail, push it down into the chamber, Leaving them longer allows the shoulder to stay high, lightly fluff, and push the shoulder up against the wick slot,juice it up, and reassemble.
The only negative I can think of with doing it this way is if you pull to hard you might suck the cotton away from the wick slot, I've never had it happen, but have seen mention of it happening to people wicking it through the hole.
This is the same way I wick my Taifun GT/GT II
additional GTIII details:
- planned release 01.10.2016
- Liquid Control realized via driptip
- TopFilling
- side-feeding channels at the bottom of the tank
- deck (no pics yet) similar to the GSII/GSL (side-feeding instead of top)
- Air Flow ring with 2x2 sets of holes (small & large hole set for M2L/DL)
- Air Channel beneath the coil: 3.5mm but with M2L-Kit included (think Kayfun5)
- planned release 01.10.2016
- Liquid Control realized via driptip
- TopFilling
- side-feeding channels at the bottom of the tank
- deck (no pics yet) similar to the GSII/GSL (side-feeding instead of top)
- Air Flow ring with 2x2 sets of holes (small & large hole set for M2L/DL)
- Air Channel beneath the coil: 3.5mm but with M2L-Kit included (think Kayfun5)
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