I grab the ends of the 3mm silica and untwist it on each side of the coil, I get a hold of it on the outside of the chamber before I snip off the extra.
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I have no problem with 3mm silica it wicks fine and no leaking.I am running 2mm silica .7 at the moment doubled over with about 1mm of silica sticking out on each side of the tank and it wicks just fine with no leaking.The key to getting the build to not leak in the Taifun GT is leaving about 1mm of wick on each side in the tank.
I have tried wicking mine with 1mm and 1.5mm silica and you can forget it,it will flood and leak everywhere.One other wick I use in it,1/8" twisted Ceramic Rope without doubling it over and it wicks extremely well,better than silica.
I don't know that I agree with the 1mm overhang part, I think the key is to make sure the holes in the collapsible collar to be filled. I've used an extra piece of cotton on each side to fill up those ports when I get flooding... I recently read a thread where the poster suggested cutting the wick flush with the collar, so I tried it... I can't say it wicks better, since a good build should and does wick, but it doesn't flood either. Wicking is usually not the problem with the taifun, its flooding.
at least thats been my experience, ymmv.Oh and to be clear, I've usually build mine with enough wick sticking out to touch the glass or even get squished against the glass, so the advice is good, I'm just saying in my experience, its not how much wick comes out of the holes, its filling the holes so juice cant freely flood the inside of the chamber.
I've never seen twisted ceramic rope? I've had excellent success with organic cotton balls from cvs. great flavor, great vapor, and if I do get any flooding, I can open it up and add a little more cotton to each side to fill the holes (not going over the coil, just the edges) again - my experience, ymmv.
I don't know that I agree with the 1mm overhang part, I think the key is to make sure the holes in the collapsible collar to be filled. I've used an extra piece of cotton on each side to fill up those ports when I get flooding... I recently read a thread where the poster suggested cutting the wick flush with the collar, so I tried it... I can't say it wicks better, since a good build should and does wick, but it doesn't flood either. Wicking is usually not the problem with the taifun, its flooding.
Oh and to be clear, I've usually build mine with enough wick sticking out to touch the glass or even get squished against the glass, so the advice is good, I'm just saying in my experience, its not how much wick comes out of the holes, its filling the holes so juice cant freely flood the inside of the chamber.
I've never seen twisted ceramic rope? I've had excellent success with organic cotton balls from cvs. great flavor, great vapor, and if I do get any flooding, I can open it up and add a little more cotton to each side to fill the holes (not going over the coil, just the edges) again - my experience, ymmv.
+1.
As long as you fill the hole, it will wick and will not leak. I've used extra cotton, doubled, an extra piece over ends, over the coil, every which way....and no leaking. Have to make sure the cap threads into the chimney, then the wick holes are filled, then vaping Nirvana. With the holes filled with any wicking material (virtually), it's hard to get a leak, or lose the pressure seal. Do either wrong...Leak City.
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I guess I forgot to update this post. I had leakage using the FT 3mm braided silica, had to open it up a couple of time and poke into the center of the protruding wick ends. All was good in the end but other than cheaper cost I experienced no change over 3mm twisted silica except for the extra fussing around with it to get it to not leak. So due to shear laziness I went back to 3mm twisted silica.
I have alot of 3mm so I havent given up on it. Im just happy to get ol cheap cotton working. I have used 4 strandes of silica abd it was ok but slowly flooded. Overnight. I will play more I will also be buying another taifun to play with I love it.
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Any chance a Terminator-C stainless window will fit the Taifun GT? I can't do plastic....
What is going on when my wick escapes into my Taifun? What am I doing wrong to make that happen?
Them chimney is turning and pulling the wick ends into the chamber.
ummmm...huh? Talk to me like I am a newbie girl and have no idea what I am doing..which part is the chimney?
When you are screwing on the tank the tube in the center ( air tube) is turning the part that the wicks stick out from.
An o-ring pretty much keeps it in place but some are kind of loose. Note the lettering on the wick chamber in relation to the air hole while screwing on the tank to see if it's turning.
Chimney is the slim tube with tank top, center of tank.
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Well depending on just how loose it is you need to just take care when putting on the tank. I replaced the o-ring under the sliding part. The o-ring on the chamber cap is the same size as the one just below the deck and swapping them may help.
Also there is a groove inside the sliding part that kind of stop the sleeve in it's correct extended spot, you may try pushing the sleeve down ever so slightly till the o-ring is not in it's groove.
Lubricate the tiny o-ring at the bottom of the air tube with juice also.
I think I understand..you are saying I might have the skirt/well thing up too high? I do take it off altogether when changing wicks because it is so temperamental so perhaps I am not pushing it down far enough when I put it back on. Where can I get more of those O rings? I have heard that they come with a loose O ring and can be replaced with a better one for a tighter fit
When the sleeve is in it's correct spot it will actually the loosest, I push mine down to service the coil.
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Try pushing it down from it's correct spot just a little so that the o-ring is not into the groove of the sleeve but still extended close to the correct spot.
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Also, do not overtighten. If there is any looseness, then once the tank is fairly well cinched up, watch as you slowly turn to see if the wick is being sucked into the chamber. Redo and correct and then backoff just BEFORE, the chimney starts to suck up the wicks. Sometimes, too much wick will press against the tank, and the tank will turn the chimney chamber and suck up the wick. After a few tries, you'll be able to see the turning, and will learn to avoid. Yes, new O-rings always helps. As inexpensive as good O-rings are, many vendors still use poor performing O-rings, particularly in the clones, but I've seen them less than perfect in the authentic Tai's as well. Once you know what's going on, by watching the wick and chamber, and turning the other parts, you'll see what's going on and intuitively understand how to reduce the tendency, if not completely eliminate it.
The other thing that can happen, is the chimney/chamber will be too low and the tube on top of the chimney, attached to the cap, won't seat correctly. you can tell if the tube o-ring is visible. It should not be visible, but if it is, you will get leaking. Leaking happens when the tube doesn't seat correctly, the wicks don't stay seated, or the wick material is not dense enough to prevent flooding at the chimney wall. When any of these happen, Leak City. Sucks. Like all devices, there's a wee bit of a learning curve and the Tai is no different. that being said, once you get used to the Tai's peccadilloes, a tensioned micro coil wick proper wick density, seated correctly, will all contribute to one of the very best RTA vapes you can achieve. Once I got the Taifun, I pretty much retired the Kayfun's, and a dozen other RTA/RBA's. My four Tai's are now in rotation for the missus and I. Lovin' the vape these days. I like TMC's around 1.1 - 1.5 ohms with 29 gauge on a 1/16" mandrel. Also, I DIY, so I can flavor my juices to operate under these conditions. Nirvana. My experimentation has almost become non-existent these days. Some friends are sending me some KGD, so maybe the vape will improve again. We shall see. Pretty darn good now! Good luck to you. Sorry for being overly technical. Keep asking questions until you understand the fine points, and you too will have a great vape! Best.
The other thing that can happen, is the chimney/chamber will be too low and the tube on top of the chimney, attached to the cap, won't seat correctly. you can tell if the tube o-ring is visible. It should not be visible, but if it is, you will get leaking. Leaking happens when the tube doesn't seat correctly, the wicks don't stay seated, or the wick material is not dense enough to prevent flooding at the chimney wall. When any of these happen, Leak City. Sucks. Like all devices, there's a wee bit of a learning curve and the Tai is no different. that being said, once you get used to the Tai's peccadilloes, a tensioned micro coil wick proper wick density, seated correctly, will all contribute to one of the very best RTA vapes you can achieve. Once I got the Taifun, I pretty much retired the Kayfun's, and a dozen other RTA/RBA's. My four Tai's are now in rotation for the missus and I. Lovin' the vape these days. I like TMC's around 1.1 - 1.5 ohms with 29 gauge on a 1/16" mandrel. Also, I DIY, so I can flavor my juices to operate under these conditions. Nirvana. My experimentation has almost become non-existent these days. Some friends are sending me some KGD, so maybe the vape will improve again. We shall see. Pretty darn good now! Good luck to you. Sorry for being overly technical. Keep asking questions until you understand the fine points, and you too will have a great vape! Best.
I do use the Koh Gen Do and have since I got my TF. I love it. I have never had a leak save for my very first fill and that was due to not pulling the skirt/well up. Watched a video and realized I had not pulled the skirt up. My cotton has been retired since finding KGD.
Thanks for all the help
Thanks for all the help
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