Taifun GT Discusion!

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the4thpower3

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I haven't looked back at this thread in a while, so if I'm posting something old just ignore me.

I was poking around on ebay looking for a Taifun Nano kit (search that).
To my surprise I found a guy selling an PMMA nano kit (short tube PMMA top cap and tank).
When I saw the pic, I for some reason assumed it came with a metal top cap.
He had a note "LAST ONE" available.
So, without giving it any further thought, inspecting the pics or reading (sadly, I do that often), I bought it.
I just received it today. It's short and frosted. Yay!
OK. I don't care for frosted. So before I bothered cleaning it and testing it out, I went straight to work on it.
That's another one of my problems (and a big reason I buy clones).
I decided to polish the PMMA to a clear finish.
AND... I had recently seen Dampf Wolke on YouTube reviewing the Ghost Refill for the Kayfun by Mod Factory.
Ideas. Here we go...hole drilling time. LOL. Without even test fitting/measuring I drilled a 1/16" hole in the threads of the tank.
Why? Cuz I'm an idiot...and looking at the small size of this nano kit, I knew there was no way to get much liquid in there.
I figured the Ghost refill hole would make it easy to fill the entire tank.
It DID!!! After I drilled the hole out to 5/64" (1/16" would not let enough air escape for the needle I was using).
I'm still not 100% sure how much this nano kit would hold without the ghost refill hole, but my guess is only about 1.5ml.
I'll check it later once I vape this tank full dry.
I've got close to 3ml in it now! Woohoo!

So, I was thinking this could work on the full size oem tank as well. Just flip the tank over, drill a hole in the plastic (threads) and run the tank "upside down". I haven't done this yet because 1. I am too excited about this nano tank and had to post this. 2. The oem tank already holds around 5ml (right?). Well, still might be cool to get another 1ml (or more) in there.

I have a tendency to forget to take before pics too.
I suppose I just get to excited to start modifying stuff. lol
So, these are pics after the mods.

It seems to be about 12mm shorter than the original tank.
25874407-BD44-4C24-BAC5-17A49CFF93E1.jpg


Hole drilled in top for the refill
734C7D6A-CF3A-4EE9-919A-42D133BAB5E1.jpg


Refill with syringe with the top cap screwed on just enough so the airtube still seals the chamber, but open enough for the needle to fit in.
A1C48BD0-0DCC-47FA-819C-4A927CC890D4.jpg


Yes, it seals - no leaky - damn lucky :)
B9029F9B-69B0-4CC4-BFE7-02EC6DEDEC6F.jpg


83CBFE20-D026-4DE9-8647-0827396386A9.jpg


Oh. just fyi all 3 of my TFGTs are clones.
 
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Bill's Magic Vapor

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I haven't looked back at this thread in a while, so if I'm posting something old just ignore me.

I was poking around on ebay looking for a Taifun Nano kit (search that).
To my surprise I found a guy selling an PMMA nano kit (short tube PMMA top cap and tank).
When I saw the pic, I for some reason assumed it came with a metal top cap.
He had a note "LAST ONE" available.
So, without giving it any further thought, inspecting the pics or reading (sadly, I do that often), I bought it.
I just received it today. It's short and frosted. Yay!
OK. I don't care for frosted. So before I bothered cleaning it and testing it out, I went straight to work on it.
That's another one of my problems (and a big reason I buy clones).
I decided to polish the PMMA to a clear finish.
AND... I had recently seen Dampf Wolke on YouTube reviewing the Ghost Refill for the Kayfun by Mod Factory.
Ideas. Here we go...hole drilling time. LOL. Without even test fitting/measuring I drilled a 1/16" hole in the threads of the tank.
Why? Cuz I'm an idiot...and looking at the small size of this nano kit, I knew there was no way to get much liquid in there.
I figured the Ghost refill hole would make it easy to fill the entire tank.
It DID!!! After I drilled the hole out to 5/64" (1/16" would not let enough air escape for the needle I was using).
I'm still not 100% sure how much this nano kit would hold without the ghost refill hole, but my guess is only about 1.5ml.
I'll check it later once I vape this tank full dry.
I've got close to 3ml in it now! Woohoo!

So, I was thinking this could work on the full size oem tank as well. Just flip the tank over, drill a hole in the plastic (threads) and run the tank "upside down". I haven't done this yet because 1. I am too excited about this nano tank and had to post this. 2. The oem tank already holds around 5ml (right?). Well, still might be cool to get another 1ml (or more) in there.

I have a tendency to forget to take before pics too.
I suppose I just get to excited to start modifying stuff. lol
So, these are pics after the mods.

It seems to be about 12mm shorter than the original tank.
25874407-BD44-4C24-BAC5-17A49CFF93E1.jpg


Hole drilled in top for the refill
734C7D6A-CF3A-4EE9-919A-42D133BAB5E1.jpg


Refill with syringe with the top cap screwed on just enough so the airtube still seals the chamber, but open enough for the needle to fit in.
A1C48BD0-0DCC-47FA-819C-4A927CC890D4.jpg


Yes, it seals - no leaky - damn lucky :)
B9029F9B-69B0-4CC4-BFE7-02EC6DEDEC6F.jpg


83CBFE20-D026-4DE9-8647-0827396386A9.jpg


Oh. just fyi all 3 of my TFGTs are clones.
When I flipped my stainless and clear tank over, using the steel threads at the base now, I noticed one thing that I couldn't see before. That is, that the tank is almost full when filled to the brim of the air tube. The reason that the tanks look only half full is the optical illusion, that all that open space above the air tube is not later to be occupied by the chimney. To my surprise, the chimney does fill the tank virtually all the way up, particularly if you are daring with your juice and take it to virtual over flow. My guess is that you may get even less juice in the tank with a top fill as with a bottom fill. With the clear tank on the top, my juice almost touches the bottom of the threads on the tank for the top cap. The air hole in the top breaks the pressure seal and is why the kayfun leaks so much compared with the taifun with a top fill. I wouldn't drill a top fill air hole/fill hole in any tank for the pressure seal breach issue. Sounds like you're not having problems, but I would worry about from time to time. Good luck to you!
 

the4thpower3

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When I flipped my stainless and clear tank over, using the steel threads at the base now, I noticed one thing that I couldn't see before. That is, that the tank is almost full when filled to the brim of the air tube. The reason that the tanks look only half full is the optical illusion, that all that open space above the air tube is not later to be occupied by the chimney. To my surprise, the chimney does fill the tank virtually all the way up, particularly if you are daring with your juice and take it to virtual over flow. My guess is that you may get even less juice in the tank with a top fill as with a bottom fill. With the clear tank on the top, my juice almost touches the bottom of the threads on the tank for the top cap. The air hole in the top breaks the pressure seal and is why the kayfun leaks so much compared with the taifun with a top fill. I wouldn't drill a top fill air hole/fill hole in any tank for the pressure seal breach issue. Sounds like you're not having problems, but I would worry about from time to time. Good luck to you!

I agree with virtually everything you've stated (in theory).
Which is why I haven't been as excited to do this to the full size tank.
But I wanted to max out capacity in this nano tank.
There does still need to be a tiny air pocket.
But you can def fit more in there...again with 5ml in a full size tank it's not all that important.
I'll measure it soon. I'm more than half way through this tank already.
 
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the4thpower3

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I confirmed the nano tank capacity with a standard fill - filling to the very tip of the topcap airtube = 2ml.
I was able to add another 1ml to it through my drilled hole.
There is empty space between the bottom of the threads and the dome in the top cap with a normal fill.
That space is now filled except a small air bubble.
Now, when I was filling it, I made sure to keep the bubble level and keep filling into the air pocket.
I got a tiny squeeze of juice come out the hole when I completely tightened the top cap, but not much. Just what got into the threads was squished out.

I'm pretty certain the same would apply for the standard tank, but I don't have much desire to do it...yet (I probably will).

And no, no problems. No leaks, no flooding, no gurgle.
And I'm even running it without a draw tube and it's holder tube.

Pic with standard fill - you can see the liquid makes it up to the bottom of the top cap threads.
12F255D6-120E-454B-9867-C19CA200E3AF.jpg


Standard fill + 1ml through drill hole
918ED64B-CE29-4B2B-9F03-13F2468C75A3.jpg


Completely full except for the small air bubble.
B5560E85-D405-4239-93BC-0CE15896A7D1.jpg
 
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rjtoole

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Hello, Please have a look at the attached picture. I am suddenly missing this o-ring the one that holds the removable wall. I am either blind or stupid but I can't find the correct replacement for it. The ones I have tried have been too large or too small... I am pleading for your help! If anyone can tell me the correct size o-ring to get I would be greatly appreciative.

Taifun.jpg
 

dwcraig1

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Hello, Please have a look at the attached picture. I am suddenly missing this o-ring the one that holds the removable wall. I am either blind or stupid but I can't find the correct replacement for it. The ones I have tried have been too large or too small... I am pleading for your help! If anyone can tell me the correct size o-ring to get I would be greatly appreciative.

View attachment 317199
This is just a guess but probably correct, 12 mm x 1
12 mm id, 1mm cross section, 14 mm od.
usually be listed as 12 mm x1.
Viton Oring 12 x 1mm Price for 25 pcs - Orings and More
 

rjtoole

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dwcraig1

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Thank you for your response. I will check this out and report back. Again, thank you.


Ok, with your measurements and google I was able to confirm that this is the size that is needed. Thank you again.
I have disassemble one of mine and will still say 12 x 1 mm, but the one on the chamber cap is the same size so you may get away with swapping places and with no o-ring or smaller ill fitting one on the cap may work 'till you get some
 

eLCruz

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I have disassemble one of mine and will still say 12 x 1 mm, but the one on the chamber cap is the same size so you may get away with swapping places and with no o-ring or smaller ill fitting one on the cap may work 'till you get some

That actually worked for me. I replaced the cap o ring with a slightly thicker one, just got to use a thicker wick ;)

Sent from Gallifrey using a Sonic Screwdriver via Tardis #5 :what:
 

KurrptSenate

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Yes sir. Absolutely phenomenal compared to the other one they have on there. Even the top cap for the atomizing chamber is a dream to screw on. Only con of my entire TGT is that the clear tank section has a visible seam. Almost like a flat section to it.

Been trying to sub ohm on this thing to get more battery life out of my hana mod. It's really hard to do so with 28 gauge. I just coiled it with 30 gauge, twisted kanthal and went with 7 wraps. still 1.2 Ω on a 5/64ths drill bit.

I'll try it with 5 wraps tomorrow. That should solve that

I
 

roflwaffles

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Yes sir. Absolutely phenomenal compared to the other one they have on there. Even the top cap for the atomizing chamber is a dream to screw on. Only con of my entire TGT is that the clear tank section has a visible seam. Almost like a flat section to it.

Been trying to sub ohm on this thing to get more battery life out of my hana mod. It's really hard to do so with 28 gauge. I just coiled it with 30 gauge, twisted kanthal and went with 7 wraps. still 1.2 Ω on a 5/64ths drill bit.

I'll try it with 5 wraps tomorrow. That should solve that

I

Good to know that that particular one is of quality, I'm looking into one of these to go onto my Panzer since it's really the only tank RBA I've seen that looks good on it. What exactly do you mean when you say it has a visible seam? Is it because the O-rings and such are visible?

I was also wondering how does it compare to a Kayfun Lite Plus when it comes to performance i.e. vapor production, flavor, draw, and wicking. I've been hearing different opinions across the board. I'm quite happy with my Kayfun Lite Plus when it comes to flavor but my vapor production could be a tad better and my draw is still pretty tight even at it's airiest.

I'm also a big fan of how the Taifun GT refills and I was wondering, can you get the advertised 5.0mls in it? It seems like there's a lot of wasted real estate since you refill to the screw-in area instead of filling the entirety of the tank but that may be just my inexperience with the device.
 
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KurrptSenate

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The seam I'm talking about is when they joined the clear section together. Imagine rolling a piece of paper, length wise, into a circle. Where the two ends meet, instead of it being a perfect circle, the two seams are flat when joined together

I prefer it over the kayfun in just about every way. I'm not sure the exact amount of liquid it holds as I never measured it but its quite a lot.
 

Bill's Magic Vapor

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Yes sir. Absolutely phenomenal compared to the other one they have on there. Even the top cap for the atomizing chamber is a dream to screw on. Only con of my entire TGT is that the clear tank section has a visible seam. Almost like a flat section to it.

Been trying to sub ohm on this thing to get more battery life out of my hana mod. It's really hard to do so with 28 gauge. I just coiled it with 30 gauge, twisted kanthal and went with 7 wraps. still 1.2 Ω on a 5/64ths drill bit.

I'll try it with 5 wraps tomorrow. That should solve that

I

try a smaller drill bit. 1/16" with 8 wraps is just below 1 ohm. too few wraps may hurt your flavor/vapor production. I get a heck of a vape around 1 ohm, though, all the time on the TGT. Why exactlyl is subohming such a concern?
 
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