Taifun GT Discusion!

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dwcraig1

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drill a hole in a block of wood so the 510 connector can go into it and the base can sit on it.
Place the large insulator into the bottom of the base.
place the assembled deck into the base keeping it straight. positive screw needs to be snug here with disc(s) in place.
Turn a 3/8" drive socket (any size will do) upside down and place against the deck and gently tap it into place with small hammer. (use the side of the socket with the square hole, it straddles the posts perfectly. That's it.
 
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garpt01

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I was always a big Taifun GT fan, so much so that I purchased 2 clones from the supposedly 2 best clone manufacturers. They were my favorites for both flavor production, vapor production, and relative ease of build. But now, after two or three dozen builds, both of them have lost "vacuum", so to say, to the point where I get very little vapor production. It appears that the chimney "sides" have loosened and there is very little friction when pushing/ pulling the chimney up and down after building. However, there is no leaking. I thought it might be the "O" rings, but it such an odd size that I can't find anything to replace it in my collection. I really enjoy this atty, but I'm too spooked to buy another now. (The O-ring is my guess)
Anybody else have this issue and find a solution?
Thanks. GT
 

dwcraig1

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I was always a big Taifun GT fan, so much so that I purchased 2 clones from the supposedly 2 best clone manufacturers. They were my favorites for both flavor production, vapor production, and relative ease of build. But now, after two or three dozen builds, both of them have lost "vacuum", so to say, to the point where I get very little vapor production. It appears that the chimney "sides" have loosened and there is very little friction when pushing/ pulling the chimney up and down after building. However, there is no leaking. I thought it might be the "O" rings, but it such an odd size that I can't find anything to replace it in my collection. I really enjoy this atty, but I'm too spooked to buy another now. (The O-ring is my guess)
Anybody else have this issue and find a solution?
Thanks. GT
I'm using 12 x 1 mm on mine but I believe the actual size is 11 x 1 mm.
I get mine here: Metric Buna Orings 11 x 1mm Price for 50 pcs - Orings and More
I bought the 12's thinking they were the correct size, they're a little tight at first.
The o-ring on the chamber cap is the same size, switch them.
How's your air flow, I doubt if that o-ring is the problem.
Is it turning when you screw on the tank?

I'm thinking along the line of voltage drop, do you have a volt meter that you can use to measure the voltage off the post screws with a coil installed?
 
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Tooth Tamer

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aOmkKV2.jpg12x1 is correct ill post this in here for anyone needed the info like i did. I believe all dimensions are correct.
 
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maf2k8

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Quick question about the HCigar clone. The bottom build deck is press fit into the bottom cup, Is that correct?

If i were to try and tap out the deck area thru the 510 connection and the build deck popped out of the cup, Would i be able to reattach the two? I am assuming not since the 2 pieces are press fit and once broken apart, They need to be press fit back together or can they be put back together?

Thanks
 

dwcraig1

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Yes, you can assemble them again but must be very careful. Why would you want to disassemble it? I did because mine was shorting out

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I took mine apart just to show folks how to do it as there really is not much availible on it.
 

maf2k8

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It tastes a little off. Not much but just enough for me to notice. I disassemble all my new attys as much as possible and give them a good bath before i use them. The Taifun GT i have given it numerous baths and tank fills and it still seems to have a slight taste to it. I seen a pic that someone posted what there Taifun looked like when they popped the deck off and it was nasty, So after seeing that photo i am kinda wanting to get in there to give it a good cleaning is all.

Though if its a PITA to put back together, I won't do it.
 

dwcraig1

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Dwcraig1, good for you! It's a pain.
Does anyone noticed a serious voltage drop just from the atomiser itself?

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Other than a loose post screw I've not seen any voltage drop with a TGT but the lack of vapor described a few posts back sounds like what may be going on, might be voltage drop on the mod its self.
 

garpt01

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Other than a loose post screw I've not seen any voltage drop with a TGT but the lack of vapor described a few posts back sounds like what may be going on, might be voltage drop on the mod its self.

Thanks all for the recommendations. Its definitely not a voltage drop, I've cleaned all the electrical conductivity parts carefully and tried several different mods (and coils). It is firing fine. In fact, the juice is getting darker and darker due to the coil getting to temperature but "cooking" the juice instead of the vapor getting through the atty and out. The top piece o-ring looked like a thicker diameter to me- isn't it the same as the bottom tank o-ring? It's the smaller diameter inner chimney base o-ring I'm thinking is at fault.,.
Thanks to all that supplied the o-ring sizes and availability!
-Gary
 

Silvainus

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Other than a loose post screw I've not seen any voltage drop with a TGT but the lack of vapor described a few posts back sounds like what may be going on, might be voltage drop on the mod its self.

How did you adjust the post? I just got one, a hcigar clone and one post is higher than the other and I want to even then out.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 

dwcraig1

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How did you adjust the post? I just got one, a hcigar clone and one post is higher than the other and I want to even then out.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
Well.... a couple of days ago I was putting in a new coil on a friends TGT and noticed that the screw for the positive post was only catching a couple threads when tightened. If loosened enough to put the wire under it it would just be sitting in it's hole ready to fall out.
I removed the screw, then pulled out the sleeve that it goes into and used a Dremel to shorten it. This will work on either side but if the posts are simply different heights and you still can attach the coil legs without the screws falling out I would just leave it the way it is.
Try to avoid removing both the 510 adjusting screw and the positive post screw at the same time as the brass disc inside the base will turn making it more difficult to get the screw(s) started.
 
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AMDTrucking

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Remember when you fill up Taifun GT, you think it is full, but when you flip it upside down and all your liquid disappears into the cap?

Well, no more!

Introducing a 7.5 ML Taifun GT! All I did really is to drill the top cap and installed two fill screws. One is to fill it up and the other is to allow air to escape.

JNh3PkC.jpg


I also modified my Fogger V4.3, not for extra liquid but for ease of filling.

MPgIXfT.jpg


Let's see what you people think about it.
 

Blackl1sted

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Remember when you fill up Taifun GT, you think it is full, but when you flip it upside down and all your liquid disappears into the cap?

Well, no more!

Introducing a 7.5 ML Taifun GT! All I did really is to drill the top cap and installed two fill screws. One is to fill it up and the other is to allow air to escape.

JNh3PkC.jpg


I also modified my Fogger V4.3, not for extra liquid but for ease of filling.

MPgIXfT.jpg


Let's see what you people think about it.

Have you used it a lot yet? I would think you would get flooding because you aren't making a vacuum when filling it. How has it been working for you so far? Nice work and if it is functional even better.
 

akuser47

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Omg i finally got cotton to work. Im useing mt baker tank crackers with a 28 gauge kanthal coil off a3/32 bit wrapped 9 times at 1.7 ohms and tried cotton again as 3mm silica always floods no matter how i use it. So been playing with cotton again. Finally have a biuld that is perfection.

Live free, Ride free, or Die fighting for the right to do so!
 
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